920rh 'Special'

Swagger

Putting boot to ass since 1967!
I recently picked up this:
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If you were to call it a Virago you'd only be a little wrong. In truth the major difference between the more plentiful 'Virago' and the European model XV920/TR1 is the chain drive vs. the US model's shaft, and the slightly odd looking rear end. What this is in truth is a good, all around motorcycle. This particular unit is in outstanding shape for it's vintage. It's an 81 with a shit-ton of miles on the clock (68k!) but the engine was recently treated to a fresh top-end rebuild and sounds/runs like brand new. That 68K kinda worried be at first but the bike was obviously owned by someone who did maintenance as it SHOULD be done. There are no rattles, no clunks or squeaks or any other odd noise for that matter. It's had paint recently but shows a fair amount of 'garage wear' in the form of subtle scratches and scuffs. I'm not worried about that at all as it's it such fantastic mechanical shape. Other than changing to tires of a brand I recognize (these are some kind of chinese death tire) the only place it *NEEDS* attention really is the suspension.
Typical of an 80's bike, it's squishy and wobbly and handles like a drunken hobby horse.
For all that though, due to it's exceptionally low center of gravity (note how low in the chassis the engine is) it feels tremendously light and agile for 480-some pounds(til the wallowing starts) so potential is there.

I've been happily involved in conversation with a couple guys who raced them in the 80s in the BOTT serries. Battle of the Twins was just that....a racing series for twin cylinder bikes. Neat. Like most racers these kats are full of tall tales about their bikes but once past the enthusiasm a vast amount of knowledge was laid on me in large chunks. From that info-dump formed a plan of attack for this bike, which will be built in phases since this is a clean tagged rider.

The end result will flesh out in one of two ways:
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....or this:
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Regardless of how it ends, this build will go in phases so as to keep this on the road as continuously as possible.

Phase 1: Weight-loss
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Let's be honest shall we? This shit just ain't gonna work........
We're going start by taking heavy shit off and either just pitching it or replacing with something less weighty. In typical 80's fashion, there's a lot of crap hung on the bike for the sake of the prevailing fashion and perhaps a little misspent creative thinking.

On the chopping block currently:
1) Heavy cast alloy grab rail, "luggage rack" and tail light assembly.
Generally speaking, 'Heavy' and 'Alloy' don't go together, however in this case I think they alloyed the aluminum and zinc with lead or tungsten. Regardless this is just a heavy piece of metal with little real value as far as I'm concerned. The rack portion is good for a whopping 11lb (5kg for you Euro types) so totally useless and I don't intend to carry anything on this bike that can't be handled with a backpack or soft bags/tank bag anyway. The silly plastic "trunk" bit that's built into the rack? Dumb. Gone. Lastly the tail light; I'm a little torn as it's actually not bad for an 80's unit, it's not HUGE or particularly ugly so who know...it may remain we shall see.

2) That ridiculous enclosure for the chain:
So.......great idea! It makes an otherwise generic non-oring, non-spiffy chain last a loooong time. Some guys are getting 50k(!!!) out of a chain since it's enclosed no grit gets to it and it's bathed in expensive lithium grease. Neato huh? Well...yeah if they just hadn't made the entire assembly out of cast iron's fatter cousin. Really it's aluminum, pot metal and plastic bit it's also over 20lbs! I'll wax my chain now&then and run a simple aluminum chain guard and be a happy camper. Plus it looks stupid as hell....GONE>

3)Rear fender assembly.
Huggers are pretty common these days and they do a good job of keeping the worst of the crud from blasting off the tire and onto the back of the engine. Gods bless'm but Yamaha in the 80's got 'thiiiiiiiis close' to doing it right......but they failed. Vincent had lovely alloy fender(the light kind) hung from the swingarm and it looked great...this just looks bad, and...it's apparently pretty chubby for what it is. Gone. I'll likely run something in it's place though at the moment I haven't decided. There's a substantial frame element and some other stuff between the tire and the engine and nothing of note under the seat so I may do nothing more than a small aluminum splash shield.

4) Aluminum swing arm in place of the stocker
(see below)

5) Gauges, idiot lights, turn signals, factory controls, mirrors and other annoying heavy things.
The gauges are very much like those on my other favorite Yamaha from the 80's the XS750/850 triple. In a word....HEAVY. And not just heavy but bulky and ugly. Add in big (loose) levers, a chunky mastercylinder, goofy looking mirrors that show me my shoulders, some big 'ol lollipop turn signals and another 10 pounds of pot metal and crap plastic in the form of the aforementioned idiot lights, trim pieces, bracketry, reflectors, various flappy bits and one large wasp nest.....you may note that there's room for improvement.
In this case though the tach is electronic so I may keep that bit and run a smaller, lighter speedo......or just ditch the works and run a Vapor computer. A small LED panel for the idiot lights (what's an idiot to do without his lights after all?) and that should drop some weight as well as clean up the looks up top.
I'm a little bit stalled in my plan for the turn signals though. I like the old BMW style bar end signals a lot

6) No more Veg-a-matics!
The swirly 'Veg-a-matic' wheels are rightly hated by anyone who's a) tried to lug one around to change the tire or b) trying to go fast efficiently. In short, the laws of physics all conspired together (bastards) to make these wheels not only uglier than Rosanne Barr in a saran-wrap thong but heavier than a similar amount of raw fucking lead. Did I mention the ugly? For the immediate future this bike will wear spoked wheels from a CB500...because I have them, they are the right size and they have really nice Dunlops. Even stock, the cb500 wheels weigh substantially less. I'll do a weight comparison just for giggles as soon as I bring my highly accurate bathroom scale in. My calibrated 'Lift-o-matic 2000' (left arm)says that the front is at least 5lb lighter and the rear is closer to 10! Doesn't sound like much but excessive unsprung weight and especially unsprung rotating weight is a handling killer.

These relatively minor changes *should* be good for 55-60lbs depending on what things ACTUALLY weight. The rear shock is heavy as well but that'll be addressed in phase 2.
Keep in mind that this is just the beginning of the chub-shaving. Those BOTT guys....to hear it told they were running right at 300lbs. I have my work cut out for me...

Phase two: Improved handling

I think the weightloss will help a lot and this bike already feels pretty agile just for it's very low center of gravity but like a lot of things born in the 80's the suspension is pretty marginal. Braking pretty much bottoms out the front end and it's freshly rebuilt to factory specs. The back is just as squishy and my large self does little to help the situation. The frame itself is regarded as pretty stout and looking at the headstock it does appear to be pretty beefy so I'll be concentrating on suspension and setup.

Forks:
The OE forks are marginal for a bike weighing 100lb less at best and 30 years of progress have illustrated just how lame they really are. Heavy, dangerously underdamped, fairly undersprung, too small and very flexible.
What I do have is the complete front end from a 91 BMW K75. The 41mm Showas are also what came equip'd on early CBRs though certainly set up differently. These forks are 4mm larger in diameter and an inch shorter (I'd be dropping the front an inch anyway) and come with a nice factory brace. The stem will fit with some tapered conversion bearings and the BMW sourced triples are Teutonic enough to look 'Engineered' once you strip off all the crap and give'm a good polishing. This pair happens to come with racetech .90kg-mm springs (for the Kay)and gold valve emulators already installed. My phase 1 target weight is 60-ish pounds less than the BMW so the springs should be a good starting point though I will likely have some made to suit eventually.

Rear shock and swingarm:
Yamaha chose to build the swingarm out of steel (alloyed with lead I think) and it's a hefty beast. Really heavy. I've got an Olhins shock that was slated for my old 955i but that bike went away before I installed it, he clevis end threads on and I'll machine something to suit this bike and yield an adjustable amount of lift out back to derake the front a wee bit. As I understand it, on this bike +1" = -1.35deg, so for every inch of lift out back the bike loses one and a third degree of rake. Good stuff. I'll likely start it at an inch of static lift with the ability to add more later. Coupled with the 1" shorter front end will yield quicker steering on an already quick steering bike. I'll be adding a gsxr steering damper (it's on the shelf.....thanks Mike D!) as well.
As for the swingarm, I'm looking really close at an 80-ish yz400 piece as that's been spoken of for this bike a few times. I had that particular evil dirtbike and it is a lightweight piece and quite strong...I tested mine a lot....and it looks like it'll all but swap directly, I've got a one coming so we'll see. Otherwise I'll likely need to make something to suit, we'll see.

Other things that'll be changed out during this period are the horrible seat and the way too heavy/restrictive exhaust.
The OEM seat for the TR1/920r is a nice looking piece and firm enough to make some pussies whine, but then I'd rather my seat be a bit on the firm side. This one feels like someone took the stock foam out and added the thick spongy stuff from grandma's couch and slung a semi-generic ebay-tastic seat cover on it. It looks remotely similar but is just uncomfortable. I'll be carting it off to a local shop for a rebuild. I'd thought to go to Corbin as I've had their seats on a couple other bikes, but I almost swallowed my tongue when I got the quote. For $500 based on my seat pan and foam(!!!) with vinyl...umm.....no. I looked at Sargent and a couple others but none could give me what I wanted for a fair price. Locally though there's a well respected joint that had made some really nice looking seat and as soon as I get some info back I'll be passing it along. Truth be told, even if her costs come close to Corbin or Sargent's I'll still go local...because it's local. Nothing wacky, just that tasty TR1 profile with the pilots seat blended in the thigh area a bit more and the rear edges rounded/softened. This will all get covered with camel leather with red stitching with a diamond quilted pattern on the seating surface. Looks like I have my choice for foam density and will likely add a gel pad under the front part.

The stock exhaust actually sounds ok but lacks authority but is REALLY HEAVY and fairly restrictive if the cross section I found online is accurate. I will likely end up with some one-off pipes once the engine building happens....oh yes, I WILL be building a beast for this bike. Any engine I spend any time at all with ends up way overboard and it's safe to assume this one will too in time. That all being said, likely I'll nab a cheap-o MAC or some other 2-1 exhaust header and I'll sling some kind of muffler on it...dunno yet.

According to various owners groups and a few articles I've read there's a good 10-13hp laying around waiting to be let loose in this without ever cracking the block. The OE exhaust is pretty but a decent (the MAC was cited) 2-1, a dynojet kit in the carbs and pod filters will do the trick. I know that the stock backbone/airbox setup is restrictive due mainly to packaging so this should help.

Pods on CV carbs!!??? I must have lost my nut huh? Apparently it works just fine in this case because the ol' girl's big lungs (even with the low factory compression) give a good strong vacuum signal and the dynojet kit allows for drilling out the transfer ports so it should still yield decent throttle response I hope. Worst cast I'll jet up this pair of VM40s I have on the shelf....but we'll give this a shot first.

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Imagine this one with smaller turn signals, less obtrusive clocks and you get the idea of phase one. If I can get this thing to ~400lbs, 75hp and good handling I'll be happy with Phase 1.

The future....well.....that may lead to something like this:
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trellis frame, 100hp torque beast, under 350lb......yum!
 
I like the more vintage/cafe version. Should be fun, and thanks for posting your avatar girl's 'before' photo. I know a lot of the guys have been wondering...
 
Welcome to the party !!

I've got 3 TR1s now to play with. They're the same as the 920RH except with slightly bigger bores [ 95mm ] to give a nominal 1000cc.

Yep - you can add lightness in bucketloads, pretty much as you have listed. OEM shocker is at least 3 lbs heavier than my alloy bodied RAM - Ohlins would be similar I guess. Wait 'til you remove the "alloy" footrest hangers - coated in the same lead alloy I imagine ! That lump of frame next to the red battery on the racer - is redundant if you dump the centre stand [ another 3lbs ] and can simply be whizzed off - another 2-3 lbs.

BTW - Work boxed that section of the frame in underneath to help brace the swingarm pivot..........hmmm where has that been discussed before???

BTW - I'd replace "stout" when describing the "frame" to fargin heavy. I'll be weighing the spare soon as a database for the Mk2 version, which in true non BC style [ ie blinkered 60's ] WILL be of the "special" mould. You guys have converted me !
Sweepstake on the weight of the bare frame ? I'll kick off at 40 lbs [ NO haven't weighed it yet !! ]

Re: the instruments - not actually that heavy - the pods are alloy and not particularly heavy and the idiot light mount can be dumped for something more in keeping with the theme. I'm keeping the instrument pods, as it gives me the 60's look I'm after for the Mk1. BTW - weighed that searchlight on the front yet !!!!

I see yours has the neat [ 'ish ] factory hugger, which I will use on mine [all mine are later 83's without hugger ] as our archaic UK laws demand a working mudguard / water deflector. No point me explaining to plod I don't ride when it rains these days !

I've got an article written by one of the UK's top classic racer / journalists - Alan Cathcart when he tested the Bob Work bike at Westwood BC race track in 1983. The bike was as last raced by Rhys Howard in the Seattle National where he unfortunately dumped the bike. Cathcart raced a Duke in the 1982 BOTT season, so was well placed to make a direct comparison. Which in the event was very favourable. I'll scan the article and send it via direct e-mail to anyone interested - just pm me your e-mail address.
The Work bike had a 3" shorter w/b and used an aftermarket TZ750 alloy s/a. The bike weighed in at 337lbs race ready.

I like the idea of the BMW forks - something I was looking at the other day when I took the modded K1100 forks / K1200S wheel off my bench to put the spare TR1 frame on ! The later forks [ with 4 pot Brembos / larger discs ] also benefit from being slighter larger stanchion OD - 41.7mm [ Work's bike had 40mm Ceriani's ]. The R1150GS alloy rimmed / spoked wheels also fit with minimal fuss - giving you the 4 pots and larger discs. I also just happened to be moving some of my spare K100 / 1100 frames around the garage and boy do they look a possibility !

Re: the slushy handling - before I pulled the 2nd bike off the road to begin work, I replaced the OEM shocker system with a newly developed RAM unit, and fitted experimental progressive fork springs - doing away with the air assist. Transformed - even with the 500lbs or so of lard to throw around. I'll do more work on the fork springs [ for my Mk1 Cafe Racer ] - I've already developed progressive springs for the Kay series forks ! My pal was riding his '82 TR1 after collecting it - the air tube bridge at the fork top slipt and he suddenly found himself 4" lower at the front [ at 50 mph ] ......another good reason to junk it.

Work originally ran 40mm Dell'Ortos, replaced with Mikunis and then with Mk2 Amals - that's the route I'm going down [ Amal Mk2 Concentrics ]. Just over £200 a pair here in the UK and pods / velocity stacks available off the shelf.

If it's not a rude question Swag, what did your donor cost ? It looks in pretty neat condition. I paid £600 [ each ] for a couple in similar looking condition [ good paint ], but with the dreaded starter problem 33K miles and 28K miles.

Here in the UK they are around £650 for one with cosmetic / starter problems up to £1000 - £1500 for an MOT'd on the road example.

What's the protocol to have a Yam V twin thread ?
 
CrescentSon said:
I like the more vintage/cafe version. Should be fun, and thanks for posting your avatar girl's 'before' photo. I know a lot of the guys have been wondering...

Crescent - the first 2 I'm doing [ for me and my pal ] will be trad 60's Cafe Racer, but I am really impressed with the diversity these guys have come up with. So impressed that I just have to give it a go. I'm hoping my lack of modern day parts swapping expertise won't hamper me too much - but I'm liking Swag's idea of the BMW forks - then why not a BMW frame [ it's the same principle as the Yam - stressed motor ]. That then gives me the BMW 5 spoke "Wobbly" wheels. Then I just have to get away from the 60's images in my head of tanks, seats and exhausts.

Jeez I wish I was 40 years younger so I have time for all these projects.
 
TJ, do yourself a favor and fab up a nice aluminum rear fender if you're planning to hang one off the S/A. The Yamaha piece is just that....a piece. As in...crap. Your comment regarding the footrest mounts is quite apt, (for those not in the know)they are actually frame members in that the seat sub-frame bolts to them at the bottom and not directly to the spine. As soon as I change out that subframe they are going away. It's quite likely that this one too will end up as a solo and I'll mill up something for mounting rear-sets that will be a good bit lighter and less...err...icky looking.
As for what I paid for this one, I'll PM you TJ as I feel a wee bit guilty.....but I'll say this: I stole the bike for what regular Virago rusted hulks with seized engines go for locally. The kat I bought it from was definitely an 'upper cruster' as all his other bikes were of the 70's MV/Ducati/Morini bent. This was the only Japanese bike he had and I think it was lowering the property value in his garage. It was about what fresh set of Pirellis with instal costs me for the SuperIII.
 
Read you on the rear blade - I came across an old [ as in maybe 35 years old ! ] alloy mudguard in my garage today and got real excited. When I offered it up to the 160 rear tyre - no go. Never mind there are several places in the UK that do a wider section old style alloy guard. Quite honestly, with the longer tail of the AJS 7R seat, I might run the wrath of the rozzers and not have one at all !

Yep - my subframe was the first thing to go [ 10 lbs ?] and I'm just playing with this case girdle idea. I've already done the rearset mounts [ tube ] - but I have to admit that subframe / footrests do add something to the structural integrity - probably why they're so fargin heavy!

Ohhhh no, I think you are going to make me pig sick when you tell me what you paid for yours !!!!!!!!!

They are still quite cheap [ and plentiful ] in Holland - I lined up 3 earlier in the year for around £700 the lot + ferry and fuel of course.

I've started the thought process / parts collecting for my Mk2 - which is now going to be a "Special" in the mould of my US cousins. It will allow me more scope to get away from the sixties syndrome at last - or should that be - as well ?
Early days yet, but you set me off talking about BMW forks - one thing leads to another ........... anyway thread started now.

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Re: 920rh 'Special' and Another

This is great, I too am starting a 920R racer. I would like to build one for the AHRMA Nationals. I have had a bunch of them years ago and was going to build a WORKS Replica. I used to race at Westwood and knew of the XV920 Bob built.

Anyway, the AHRMA is allowing us 41mm forks and 17" wheels. So I was going to use SV650 parts. Already have them on another vintage GPZ550 I built for the AHRMA Nationals. I will be listening to you guys and what you are doing and I will keep you informed on what I am doing.

I am even more excited now to build this.

Alan Dye
 
Hi Alan, glad to have you here! There are some really cool 920 projects going on here. Initially mine will be pretty simple though I've already got a pile of parts for 'later'....
 
The beast weighs a ton. I've taken off all of the stuff you talked about and probably more.
Here are a few photos of my chain without the casing and a photo of the stock rear tire beside the 180X18 on the bike.
I'll try to get some better photos next week - I had to pull the bike out of storage yesterday to get at some aircraft parts (a wing) in the attic. Sorry about how shitty they are...
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass
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Hey Pat, that's pretty damn fancy looking......can't wait to see them on something other than my phone. I'd been considering a sportster rear hub, good to know it's do-able. I've got my eye on a KTM rear hub as well. I can't see right now (phone doesn't display DTT well at all) but what front end are you running?
 
I probably should start my own thread soon, didn't want to steal anyone's thunder, just wanted to show what you could do with the XV swinger once the chain case was gone. BTW, the chain guard without the mounting bracket weighs 134 grams... a lot lighter than the 10 kg the stock chain case weighed.
To answer your question, I'm using the XV920 front end, stripped off all the stock stuff, put on fork boots, chromed 7" Brit style headlamp, a Mike's XS mini speedo, made my own gauge and headlight mounts, adapted a KZ1000 superbike fork brace, laced up an 18" spoked wheel using XS650 hub with 295mm discs. Put in Progressive springs, still using the air caps, has tapered roller bearings. Emulators were available for the forks when I bought the bike 4-1/2 years ago but I didn't get a set, don't know now...
Was dissatisfied with the brackets I made to move the stock calipers out, bought some SV650 calipers awhile back but haven't made up the mounting brackets yet. Like I said in my previous post, pulled the bike out of storage yesterday, haven't really done any work on it in well over a year now for a variety of reasons.
In retrospect, I should have looked for an XV12 or XV13 front end at the beginning. 40 or 41 mm tubes vs the 37's I have, should be a bolt on as the stems look to be the same. I suggest anyone else with an XV920 look into the XV12 /13 fork conversion more thoroughly or check out a V-Max front end, it may fit as well. Either one has to be a lot cheaper than the Bimmer front end. Don't know what I would have had to do to put my spoked front wheel on the XV12 front end, though .
Pat.
 
pacomotorstuff said:
I probably should start my own thread soon, didn't want to steal anyone's thunder, just wanted to show what you could do with the XV swinger once the chain case was gone. BTW, the chain guard without the mounting bracket weighs 134 grams... a lot lighter than the 10 kg the stock chain case weighed.
To answer your question, I'm using the XV920 front end, stripped off all the stock stuff, put on fork boots, chromed 7" Brit style headlamp, a Mike's XS mini speedo, made my own gauge and headlight mounts, adapted a KZ1000 superbike fork brace, laced up an 18" spoked wheel using XS650 hub with 295mm discs. Put in Progressive springs, still using the air caps, has tapered roller bearings. Emulators were available for the forks when I bought the bike 4-1/2 years ago but I didn't get a set, don't know now...
Was dissatisfied with the brackets I made to move the stock calipers out, bought some SV650 calipers awhile back but haven't made up the mounting brackets yet. Like I said in my previous post, pulled the bike out of storage yesterday, haven't really done any work on it in well over a year now for a variety of reasons.
In retrospect, I should have looked for an XV12 or XV13 front end at the beginning. 40 or 41 mm tubes vs the 37's I have, should be a bolt on as the stems look to be the same. I suggest anyone else with an XV920 look into the XV12 /13 fork conversion more thoroughly or check out a V-Max front end, it may fit as well. Either one has to be a lot cheaper than the Bimmer front end. Don't know what I would have had to do to put my spoked front wheel on the XV12 front end, though .
Pat.

Please get your thread going Pat - as soon as - great inspiration. I have been visualising your bike since you sent me descriptions - pix way better than my thoughts !!!

Your early day PM's have helped me enormously, and now to see the beast "in the flesh" - fantastic - thank you.
BTW - pix of that Duke based tank you designed please?
On the BMW forks. In the UK they are significantly cheaper than Japanese iron. We ended up with the Oilhead front ends effectively no cost as they were throw aways from the Scorpio Trike project - but even to buy on E-Bay, only £100 - £150 for a complete front end. As stock you get 305" discs and 4 pot Brembo calipers.

I already have a set of wire spoked alloy rim BMW R1150GS wheels - front is a straight swap for the 3 or 5 spoke alloy. Front 3.5", rear 5".

Anyway not to highjack Swag's thread.

What's the protocol to start a VeeTwin header?
 
Not a serious update but it's something:
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>41mm Showa front end preloaded with emulators and racetech springs.
>CB500 wheels in good nic with nice tires will do for the time being.
>CBR900 discs, will need the bolt hold opened up just a touch.
>Tokiko 6-piston calipers, had'm on the shelf for a while. Too much for the 110 tire's contact patch I'm sure but they'll end up on the final version so might was well run'm now. If they prove unridable with this relatively skinny tire I'll swap on some less aggressive 4 piston Nissins I swapped off something else (can't remember what they came from)
In the back:
>92/3/4-ish parts-bin Concours barkolounger: Comfy for two, needs carbs
>96 Triumph SuperIII: Going back to a trackday toy. It's just too wacky for street use.
>Dirty Bitch! my 02 WR426
>05 1050 Sprint: almost comfy for two, quite comfy for one who wants to tour at speed

goodies2.jpg

...bet she stops good!

I nabbed a Progressive rear spring or $10 off CL locally that was still in the packaging.
I don't plan to keep this shock as it's heavy and not all that impressive overall but for the short term this and some mechanical preload and 15psi in the forks have firmed things up to the point that I wouldn't feel too bad riding around a few corners. Plus it doesn't look lowered anymore.

I didn't realize that the OE tach is electronic until I pulled the gauges off. It's light too (thanks for the heads-up TJ) so I may keep it and run a small digital speedo instead of a complete swap to an Acewell or Vapor. Maybe....

I attempted to put some dragbars on but ran into switchgear clearance issues with the tank so for the time being it's got superbike bars. They're ok but with the peg location the grips really need to be down a minimum 2" from where they are now. To do so will require some tank rework. Luckily these bikes are kind of unloved(foolish mortals) and a 'local' wrecker has three of these tanks in nice shape for cheap so I'll grab one to hack up for the front end/clip-on setup. I may try some Norman Hyde M-bars though too.
 
That's one cool pile of parts Lee !!!!

Re: clip-ons - the forward mount Tarozzi's I have fit a treat and miss the tank even with the extra material [ about 2" ] I have overlaid to the stock tank to get the shape / proportions I wanted. My plan was also to let some bar indents in, but they are not neccessary. I'm now debating if the feature would improve the looks of the tank !

I couldn't believe how light the instruments were after removing all the clagg around them.

I'm going to take some measurements for the BMW K100 forks to see if it's a viable swap. I have the complete set off my K100 when I swap the new K1100 units into that project.

Keep the pix a coming - all this is great inspiration.
 
Well.....I hadn't taken forward offset into account so it may work out.

I found the veritable fly in the ointment.......
The neutral and hi beam dash lights stay faintly lit and after lifting the tank off I found several cobby jumpers around plug and splices all over. So.......I pulled a few connectors apart and the corrosion is epic. On top of that a couple connectors are crumbling. Yay..

So now I need to rewire. I haven't done a.scratch rewire in several years...like ten.
I been looking at the 'Painless Wiring' 7 circuit sealed auxiliary rig. Anyone have any good alternatives?
 
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