920rh 'Special'
- Thread starter Swagger
- Start date
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Ok, not much to report over ensuing few weeks, other than compiling parts and doing research I've been up to my neck with other people's bikes/parts and 'Life Shit'(tm) but I have picked up some key parts for my rewire ie: Centech AP-2 fuse panel and a giant box-o-Weatherpacks.
Looks like mods will be somewhat minimal at first, I now just want to get this back to roadworthy before riding season hits here. Bolt-on stuff can follow as time allows.....
Looks like mods will be somewhat minimal at first, I now just want to get this back to roadworthy before riding season hits here. Bolt-on stuff can follow as time allows.....
Lee [ and Pat and others ] I had a pm from the guy that bought the sad remains of Bob Works' bike. He's given me a few details which I'll pass on with his permission.
I've passed on the Alan Cathcart test report to him and he's going to send me some early pix of the bike.
Seems he bought it as a pile of bits with a blown motor.
BTW - I know I've read it on one of the threads - what about affordable replacement alloy rear swing arms ? I'd prefer to stick with monoshock on the Cafe Racer, but the "Special" can be anything that fits !
I've passed on the Alan Cathcart test report to him and he's going to send me some early pix of the bike.
Seems he bought it as a pile of bits with a blown motor.
BTW - I know I've read it on one of the threads - what about affordable replacement alloy rear swing arms ? I'd prefer to stick with monoshock on the Cafe Racer, but the "Special" can be anything that fits !
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Whew....sure is dusty in here.....
I've been up to my neck and haven't had any time to do anything of note on any of my three builds. I have procured a few more pieces of the puzzle:
Oregon Motorcycle Electronics reg/rec:
Probably the single best thing you could do for any charging system. I use Tony's parts exclusively. Well worth getting in contact if you're looking for a really solid charging system.
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com
Motogadget M-unit:
This little box does it all, no fuses or relays, no flashers or fuse-boxes. Just hook yer shit up and go! This will allow me to completely eliminate all parts of the OE harness plus simplify the shit out of it. And it's whizzy.......
Read up here: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://motogadget.com/&ei=2xlMT6mqOOidiQLLnMTDDw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDUQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dmotogadget%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DMzq%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US
fficial%26prmd%3Dimvns
03 CBR600rr Swingarm assembly:
It's the only pic I have but once you've seen one you've seen them all. What makes this cool though is the lack of upper shock mount required. Because the shock is carried IN the swingarm there's just the pivot portion and a lower linkage point that needs to be designed for.
Freshly rebuilt TL1000r front end:
This isn't my pic, just one I grabbed off the toobz. My front end is complete, stem to calipers! Racetech cartridges and a Ti axle to boot! Booyah! I'll press out the stem and either replace it with the stock XV piece or I'll just make one to fit, it's too short for direct conversion.
The suspension choices came from frustration in locating parts for a more retro appearance that would suit my needs. To get the front end performance I wanted I could get Ohlins forks, in fact I sourced the pieces used on the new Norton....but I don't wanna spend $3k on forks. I had a line on a TZ750 alloy swinger that would have been really neat along with some 18" Astralite rims but both deals fell thru within minutes.
These racetech filled TL boingers are USD modern looking but they'll perform. I paid nowhere near what they're worth either so that's a nice thing....
The CBR swinger has a couple advantages right off the bat and it was inexpensive for a high quality piece.
This season will simply see it on the road as I need a beater while the Triumph gets some overdue and deserved love. In the meantime I'll rewire it with the new goodies and sling some BT45s on it and get some miles. It's been a couple years of very little riding for me....I get cranky.
Next winter, barring something bumping it from priority it'll get a ground up rebuild with all the spiffy suspension bits and a 100+hp engine!
I have just given away a secret for those paying attention.......
I've been up to my neck and haven't had any time to do anything of note on any of my three builds. I have procured a few more pieces of the puzzle:
Oregon Motorcycle Electronics reg/rec:
Probably the single best thing you could do for any charging system. I use Tony's parts exclusively. Well worth getting in contact if you're looking for a really solid charging system.
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com
Motogadget M-unit:
This little box does it all, no fuses or relays, no flashers or fuse-boxes. Just hook yer shit up and go! This will allow me to completely eliminate all parts of the OE harness plus simplify the shit out of it. And it's whizzy.......
Read up here: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://motogadget.com/&ei=2xlMT6mqOOidiQLLnMTDDw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDUQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dmotogadget%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3DMzq%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US
fficial%26prmd%3Dimvns03 CBR600rr Swingarm assembly:
It's the only pic I have but once you've seen one you've seen them all. What makes this cool though is the lack of upper shock mount required. Because the shock is carried IN the swingarm there's just the pivot portion and a lower linkage point that needs to be designed for.
Freshly rebuilt TL1000r front end:
This isn't my pic, just one I grabbed off the toobz. My front end is complete, stem to calipers! Racetech cartridges and a Ti axle to boot! Booyah! I'll press out the stem and either replace it with the stock XV piece or I'll just make one to fit, it's too short for direct conversion.
The suspension choices came from frustration in locating parts for a more retro appearance that would suit my needs. To get the front end performance I wanted I could get Ohlins forks, in fact I sourced the pieces used on the new Norton....but I don't wanna spend $3k on forks. I had a line on a TZ750 alloy swinger that would have been really neat along with some 18" Astralite rims but both deals fell thru within minutes.
These racetech filled TL boingers are USD modern looking but they'll perform. I paid nowhere near what they're worth either so that's a nice thing....
The CBR swinger has a couple advantages right off the bat and it was inexpensive for a high quality piece.
This season will simply see it on the road as I need a beater while the Triumph gets some overdue and deserved love. In the meantime I'll rewire it with the new goodies and sling some BT45s on it and get some miles. It's been a couple years of very little riding for me....I get cranky.
Next winter, barring something bumping it from priority it'll get a ground up rebuild with all the spiffy suspension bits and a 100+hp engine!
I have just given away a secret for those paying attention.......
DuckHunterJon
Active Member
I'm guessing the secret is either turbo, supercharger, or nos. Any of the above, I'm anxious to see what you come up with! Schweeeeeet!
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Yamatech
Two wheels, one love.
That M-unit has got me interested. I read about it on the link but still have a few questions about how it works. Is it basically a master computer for all components? Does it replace the cdi and the wiring harness itself? Does it replace fuses as well, like some sort of breaker box?
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
DuckHunterJon: Ha! Don't I wish, but no....no forced induction. Boo :-\
Yamatech: It's basically a smart hub for the electrical system. It replaces all the fuses, relays, flashers etc and routes all wiring thru it. I'll still have a chunky 30a fuse between it and the battery. Just smart and ultra clean power management.
Yamatech: It's basically a smart hub for the electrical system. It replaces all the fuses, relays, flashers etc and routes all wiring thru it. I'll still have a chunky 30a fuse between it and the battery. Just smart and ultra clean power management.
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Thanks. Yeah I debated for a long time about getting it. It's a $300 chunk in one shot but the benefits are worth it. One problem I have with 80's bikes and especially Yamahas is the harnesses. Invariably they've used the pressed rice plastic connectors and they always crack and/or corrode.
It's about the only thing I don't care for when it comes to tuning fork bikes.
I have wanted one of these oddballs for a while so the plan is to keep it and let it develop into what I have envisioned. Originally I'd planned to simply rewire with a modern fuseblock and relays etc and I would have been able to cut the clutter nicely but it still would have been a fairly busy harness as standard ones are. This one will have a central ground 'buss' running down the spine and directly to the battery, everything will ground to this; chassis and engine included. The steel backbone would normally be a good place for grounding everything but I'm reading pretty high resistance between the front and rear (measured across the backbone) so that would introduce a lot of loss. I don't know if it's the alloy of steel of what, so common buss line it is. I can run a single wire for brake and tail function with the LED tail light and one wire for each turn signal. That will make things much cleaner, same from all the engine functions.
I *may* be adding a circuit breaker and solid state relay for the headlights though as I'm planning to run 3 projectors with bi-xenon drivers in each. The initial turn-on current will probably be pretty brutal but that spike only lasts for a few milliseconds then settle to less draw than a 70/45 cheater bulb. The three projectors will allow me to really shape the light patch too so that's pretty exiting.
(sorry, fell off the no-coffee wagon the other day....that didn't last long but now I'm all amped up)
It's about the only thing I don't care for when it comes to tuning fork bikes.
I have wanted one of these oddballs for a while so the plan is to keep it and let it develop into what I have envisioned. Originally I'd planned to simply rewire with a modern fuseblock and relays etc and I would have been able to cut the clutter nicely but it still would have been a fairly busy harness as standard ones are. This one will have a central ground 'buss' running down the spine and directly to the battery, everything will ground to this; chassis and engine included. The steel backbone would normally be a good place for grounding everything but I'm reading pretty high resistance between the front and rear (measured across the backbone) so that would introduce a lot of loss. I don't know if it's the alloy of steel of what, so common buss line it is. I can run a single wire for brake and tail function with the LED tail light and one wire for each turn signal. That will make things much cleaner, same from all the engine functions.
I *may* be adding a circuit breaker and solid state relay for the headlights though as I'm planning to run 3 projectors with bi-xenon drivers in each. The initial turn-on current will probably be pretty brutal but that spike only lasts for a few milliseconds then settle to less draw than a 70/45 cheater bulb. The three projectors will allow me to really shape the light patch too so that's pretty exiting.
(sorry, fell off the no-coffee wagon the other day....that didn't last long but now I'm all amped up)
Yup, pretty much it. It's whizzy!john83 said:
DuckHunterJon
Active Member
Thanks, I think you just spent some of my money for me! That control unit looks awesome. On the start up current for the lights, just spitballing, could someone smarter than me build a delay circuit to sequentially energize the lights? Should avoid a single spike.
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Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Too glad to help mate!
I'm sure an additional delay could be built, but it's the current spike from the lights themselves starting up that *may* be an issue. The M0unit has a lite-on delay that i believe is adjustable, but my fear is that that current spike might be too much. I'll look into it when i have the unit in my hands, I may not need to worry about it.
It also occurs that I can wire in a 2farad cap with the relay and sink all the current I need to when the lights trigger.
I'm sure an additional delay could be built, but it's the current spike from the lights themselves starting up that *may* be an issue. The M0unit has a lite-on delay that i believe is adjustable, but my fear is that that current spike might be too much. I'll look into it when i have the unit in my hands, I may not need to worry about it.
It also occurs that I can wire in a 2farad cap with the relay and sink all the current I need to when the lights trigger.
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
It's all about self loathing......never add up what you spend on these stupid things. Ever.
1) Trial Tech Vapor computer.
An entire 'race dash' minus transponder interface in one tight little unit. Plus it's tiny and weighs less than the air it displaces.
1) Motogadget M-unit......electrical brain/hub/thing.
It's smarter than me....could be said about most things, but this one is REALLY smart. It eliminates all the turn of the century.....ok, pre-1920.....electrical bullshit.
1) Oregon Motorcycle Parts reg/rec unit.
It's the basis for a solid electrical system and if yours is older than 20 years you owe it to your bike to get one that's up to date and current. At idle the 920 made a respectable 12.05v and it climbed to a lackluster 12.60v above 2500rpm....lame.
Tony's units are all really well designed and are set to a static 14.5v which will make the battery happy. I've used his units in all the bikes I've owned/wired, never had a single disappointment.
1) Giant case of GM Weatherpack connectors and special crimp tool.
Pretty much the standard for current wiring harnesses, these connectors have specially designed seals that keep water and gunk out of the connection meaning no corrosion and goooood long service. Yehaw!
14) Little spools of wire.
This shit is made of pure unspoiled powdered virginity, this shit constitutes $300 of the bill. Pretty colors and enough to wire the next 4 bikes so I guess it's not too bad I'll quit my pissing and moaning.....
2) Spools of braided sleeve.
It's expandable nylon sleeving that protects the harness and can be serviced later without having to rewrap the entirety of it. It's pretty tough and abrasion resistant so that's a good thing, especially on a bike.
3) Spools and one package of shrink tube.
I hate electrical tape, it's junk. I hate butt-crimp connectors, they suck. If I can help it, I'll do all soldered joints with shrink tube to protect them.
Not shown is the horrifically expensive and very bitchen LiFepo battery I'll be running on this brute. I bought a Shorai but ended up giving it to a pal who was in need. If he gets me some cash then I'll be good, if not...I'll still buy another one I'll just make him take all the fat strippers for a year or two.
Every crimp connection you make, every crap twist and forget splice you added, in addition to whatever the previous owner doofus of your particular scoot (and mine) added.....each one adds a little resistance load to the system. Crappy connectors corrode, wire oxidizes over time....it all adds up to a beating for your electrical components, low charging voltage, poor starting and poor performance.
I plan to keep this one for a while so it needs to be solid, plus in June I'm taking a couple weeks and riding in any direction not in the direction home so I need it reliable.
1) Trial Tech Vapor computer.
An entire 'race dash' minus transponder interface in one tight little unit. Plus it's tiny and weighs less than the air it displaces.
1) Motogadget M-unit......electrical brain/hub/thing.
It's smarter than me....could be said about most things, but this one is REALLY smart. It eliminates all the turn of the century.....ok, pre-1920.....electrical bullshit.
1) Oregon Motorcycle Parts reg/rec unit.
It's the basis for a solid electrical system and if yours is older than 20 years you owe it to your bike to get one that's up to date and current. At idle the 920 made a respectable 12.05v and it climbed to a lackluster 12.60v above 2500rpm....lame.
Tony's units are all really well designed and are set to a static 14.5v which will make the battery happy. I've used his units in all the bikes I've owned/wired, never had a single disappointment.
1) Giant case of GM Weatherpack connectors and special crimp tool.
Pretty much the standard for current wiring harnesses, these connectors have specially designed seals that keep water and gunk out of the connection meaning no corrosion and goooood long service. Yehaw!
14) Little spools of wire.
This shit is made of pure unspoiled powdered virginity, this shit constitutes $300 of the bill. Pretty colors and enough to wire the next 4 bikes so I guess it's not too bad I'll quit my pissing and moaning.....
2) Spools of braided sleeve.
It's expandable nylon sleeving that protects the harness and can be serviced later without having to rewrap the entirety of it. It's pretty tough and abrasion resistant so that's a good thing, especially on a bike.
3) Spools and one package of shrink tube.
I hate electrical tape, it's junk. I hate butt-crimp connectors, they suck. If I can help it, I'll do all soldered joints with shrink tube to protect them.
Not shown is the horrifically expensive and very bitchen LiFepo battery I'll be running on this brute. I bought a Shorai but ended up giving it to a pal who was in need. If he gets me some cash then I'll be good, if not...I'll still buy another one I'll just make him take all the fat strippers for a year or two.
Every crimp connection you make, every crap twist and forget splice you added, in addition to whatever the previous owner doofus of your particular scoot (and mine) added.....each one adds a little resistance load to the system. Crappy connectors corrode, wire oxidizes over time....it all adds up to a beating for your electrical components, low charging voltage, poor starting and poor performance.
I plan to keep this one for a while so it needs to be solid, plus in June I'm taking a couple weeks and riding in any direction not in the direction home so I need it reliable.
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Vehicle wiring rule #1
If it's confusing, angering, disorganized and probably flameable....that's pretty normal. Technically I'm an engineer, I designed self sustaining power supplies for imbedded pain control unit (nerve shock boxes) and there are times when I pull my hair out looking at 'wiring' on a bike or car. Fuck me...they follow no standard, usually no plan it seems.
The thing that attracted me to the M-unit besides the geewhiz factor is that you wire the bike up in a sensible fashion. Stick the M-unit on the bike. Run power and ground.
Run a wire to your turn signal indicator.
-plug into signal output
Run a wire to your turn signal switch.
-plug into signal input
Rinse and repeat as needed.
If it's confusing, angering, disorganized and probably flameable....that's pretty normal. Technically I'm an engineer, I designed self sustaining power supplies for imbedded pain control unit (nerve shock boxes) and there are times when I pull my hair out looking at 'wiring' on a bike or car. Fuck me...they follow no standard, usually no plan it seems.
The thing that attracted me to the M-unit besides the geewhiz factor is that you wire the bike up in a sensible fashion. Stick the M-unit on the bike. Run power and ground.
Run a wire to your turn signal indicator.
-plug into signal output
Run a wire to your turn signal switch.
-plug into signal input
Rinse and repeat as needed.
