A CB360 Build - Lil' Sebastian Rides Again

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Kill switch on later CDI/TPI bikes connects ignition to ground or makes circuit instead of breaking it. You may have to use 'OFF' position to get continuity

Sonreir said:
. Pressing the start button then grounds the solenoid through the green/red wire, activating it.

You need to make sure the ground wire is connected to handlebars if you use original rubber mounts (horn won't work either if there isn't a ground) Original ground wire is connected to bottom of one of the bar risers through top yoke
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
crazypj said:
Kill switch on later CDI/TPI bikes connects ignition to ground or makes circuit instead of breaking it. You may have to use 'OFF' position to get continuity

You need to make sure the ground wire is connected to handlebars if you use original rubber mounts (horn won't work either if there isn't a ground) Original ground wire is connected to bottom of one of the bar risers through top yoke

Thanks PJ. I'm not sure I understand this though. I don't have a ground wire from my kill switch - which ground wire goes up to the handlebars????

When I got the bike there was a ground in the headlight bucket to one of the bucket bolts. That's no longer there - that's the only grounding issue I can think of right now...
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Lil update this morning. Fired the bike up and the kill switch is working. It still lets me start the bike on any of its positions (off/run/off), but starting it in run and then turning it to off kills it. Is this normal? I don't have another bike/kill switch to compare with...!
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Hm, you shouldn't be able to start the bike up at all with it in 'off'. In fact, you should be able to test the kill switch by putting a test light on the B/W wire (with the 3 way connector) that feeds power to the ignition. It should light when in run, and turn off when in off.


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el barto

Been Around the Block
adventurco said:
Hm, you shouldn't be able to start the bike up at all with it in 'off'. In fact, you should be able to test the kill switch by putting a test light on the B/W wire (with the 3 way connector) that feeds power to the ignition. It should light when in run, and turn off when in off.


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Very odd. BUT I guess the most important part is that it kills power when it needs to so for the moment I can live with it.

Couple of update pics below:

fb925dea67cb09c587ee6937c272de58.jpg

Sonreir's eyewateringly bright LED headlight.

f9e9bbd3e2c4e252d1f2eca8747fcfe1.jpg

As she currently sits. Next up carb sync, timing check and oil change.

Gotta say thanks to everyone for their help thus far.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
adventurco said:
Hm, you shouldn't be able to start the bike up at all with it in 'off'. In fact, you should be able to test the kill switch by putting a test light on the B/W wire (with the 3 way connector) that feeds power to the ignition. It should light when in run, and turn off when in off.

I think he means that he can use the starter motor with the kill switch in the off position.

Yes, this is normal.
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Just a random question here as opposed to anything build related: why don't people use the rear axle R clip/cotter pin? Every 360 build I've seen (and I guess the same goes for 350s et al) seems to have not bothered with it. But why?

Just curious :eek:
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
I use 'R' clips as they are much easier to remove when doing chain adjustment.
Only 'problems' I've found with them is they can get stolen because they are so useful and on rare occaisions it's possible to 'catch' because they stick out further than a split pin (cotter pin) I didn't use them when racing as they would get caught on stuff and remove themselves (off road enduro)
One thing I've noticed with split pins, people often don't fit them properly. For some reason they don't cut them to length or bend in correct direction
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
adventurco said:
I use the R clips on all my bikes. Simple security from your wheels falling off during a ride, lol.


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Ha ha yeah exactly. Just been seeing it a few times on other builds, seems kinda stupid to leave them out...
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Morning all. I'm currently adjusting my valve clearances and following Common Motor's video on YouTube.

I'm trying to line up the LT mark with the little notch/indicator (as per https://youtu.be/xlx9xu22mLM?t=198 section of the video), but LT won't line up with it without spinning around and moving compression over to the right side.

I'm not sure if I explained that very well but hopefully you get the idea.

- Find compression on left side
- Line up LT mark
- Engine spins over to next compression stroke and won't sit at LT
- Ffs

My only thought is that I've gone too far with the stroke. Do I need to find the right side compression, and then rotate the engine back to the beginning of that rotation at LT?
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
The motor will want to spin. I put a long breaker bar on the rotor and wedge it against the footpeg or the ground. Worse comes to worse have someone sit there and hold it for you.


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el barto

Been Around the Block
adventurco said:
The motor will want to spin. I put a long breaker bar on the rotor and wedge it against the footpeg or the ground. Worse comes to worse have someone sit there and hold it for you.


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Ok cool thanks man. But how come it doesn't spin in Common Motor's video?!

Here's a vid just to hammer home what I mean:

https://vid.me/11mx
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
HerrDeacon said:
My 350 spins as well, real pain when working by yourself. I used a clamp and wrench to set it in place.

tdc_1_zps6d90865b.jpg

Ha ha love that setup. I used a heavy breaker bar, its weight counterbalanced the spin. Thanks for the pic!
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Well guys. Got a few lil bits done the past few days. Got the timing set, the valves and cam chain adjusted, she's looking like a bike!

8TnWhIv.jpg


She's firing up nicely but I've noticed this noise, kind of a clicking noise, coming from the points housing (as least that's where it sounds like it's coming from). I'm running a Pamco, fyi. Is this a normal sound?

https://vimeo.com/185148871/7daf339d53
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Make sure you are getting oil to the cam/rockers - Pull a tappet cover while it's running you should get a few splashes of oil. The valve train/tappets can be a little noisy on the 360


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