A CB360 Build - Lil' Sebastian Rides Again

el barto

Been Around the Block
adventurco said:
Make sure you are getting oil to the cam/rockers - Pull a tappet cover while it's running you should get a few splashes of oil. The valve train/tappets can be a little noisy on the 360


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Right on, will check that tomorrow. Thanks bruh


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el barto

Been Around the Block
The plan today was an oil change and to clean out the filter and screen. Upon closer inspection the PO has done this to the oil drain plug:

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She's rounded right off and nothing is sticking. Ffs. Any suggestions on how to get it off?
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
el barto said:
The plan today was an oil change and to clean out the filter and screen. Upon closer inspection the PO has done this to the oil drain plug:

b55747b5a4dd45e06f883a9447812913.jpg


She's rounded right off and nothing is sticking. Ffs. Any suggestions on how to get it off?

Vice grip.

Finding replacements on these isn't too hard so long as you don't search for CB350 or CB360 drain plug. Rounding these off is fairly common and I think all of the OEM stuff is gone by now.

This one will work, if my memory on the specs is correct:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351501385501
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Pics up some of the small bits of metal floating around in the oil. Hopefully you never have any, but if you do see metal on the plug, then you know something is wrong.
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Sonreir said:
Pics up some of the small bits of metal floating around in the oil. Hopefully you never have any, but if you do see metal on the plug, then you know something is wrong.

Gotcha, thanks.

In other news the oil plug is not budging. Got some mole grips and a blow torch on it but nothing. Very frustrating.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
el barto said:
Gotcha, thanks.

In other news the oil plug is not budging. Got some mole grips and a blow torch on it but nothing. Very frustrating.
You sure you're turning it the right way? It's upside down, so it will be backwards. I know that sounds silly, but I've done it before too.
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
deviant said:
You sure you're turning it the right way? It's upside down, so it will be backwards. I know that sounds silly, but I've done it before too.

Ha yeah I did consider that. Had to pause for a second and double check. Thankfully after much brute force via the mole grips it came off.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Sonreir said:
I think he means that he can use the starter motor with the kill switch in the off position.

Yes, this is normal.

Actually, no.
The later CDI/TPI models have switch 'OPEN' when ON and 'CLOSED' when OFF.
ON, you don't have any continuity, OFF, you get power to points

As for sump plug, get a 6 point impact socket, lean bike over and beat it on (it's not like sump plug is any good now anyway)
I forget the size you need, but it's 'INCH' not 17mm (maybe 5/8"~11/16" AF?)
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
crazypj said:
Actually, no.
The later CDI/TPI models have switch 'OPEN' when ON and 'CLOSED' when OFF.
ON, you don't have any continuity, OFF, you get power to points

As far as I know, there were never any 360s with an electronic ignition from the factory. What aftermarket versions do exist, have all been TCI, so the kill switch is still routing power to the coils and the ignition unit (rather than grounding when off, like CDI).
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
It's possible.

It's from Common Motor and they usually have their shit together, though.

Link to switch here: http://www.common-motor.com/Honda_CB360_Right_Handlebar_Switch_Box
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Hmm, real weird.
As you say, Brenden is usually real good with this stuff.
Maybe it's a 360 housiing with late model guts in it by mistake?
Probably easiest thing to do is just continuity check the Black to Black/Red wires, On and OFF?
I'll have to re-check picture of wiring, I've seen a few with two black inputs, one for lights, one for ignition.
I didn't take it apart to find out how they are isolated but for some reason, if not connected to ignition switch and coil lead it doesn't work, maybe something inside the actual switch part?
All soldered connections were good and single wire continuity good -bullet to solder
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Finally scraped however many years' worth of old gasket off the crank case and now I want to do PJ's oil mod but my question is... how the fuck do you get the transfer piece off? I don't wanna break it...
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
You have to push it down so you can pry off the wire clip. Be careful as clip has to go back on. I usually re-form them a bit to make sure they are tight. When it's reassembled and transfer piece recess covers clip it can't move.
I've worked on a couple of motors where transfer piece is missing.
Head doesn't last very long when that happens :(
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
crazypj said:
You have to push it down so you can pry off the wire clip. Be careful as clip has to go back on. I usually re-form them a bit to make sure they are tight. When it's reassembled and transfer piece recess covers clip it can't move.
I've worked on a couple of motors where transfer piece is missing.
Head doesn't last very long when that happens :(

Thanks PJ. Will give it a try.
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Well for the most part my build is complete. There are some little things I want to address but these can wait until winter truly arrives. Right now it's sunny and still relatively warm - I want to get out and ride.

It's an amazing feeling to have actually finished this build. If I was to start again I don't think I'd rush in so quickly, I'd ride the bike and get to know it before charging in with the grinder. But conversely, going straight in and modifying it forced me to understand and learn how it works, something I might have been lazier about had I just ridden it right away. There's an argument for either method, and nothing takes away from the enjoyment I got out of this build.

Non-urgent things to do at a later date:

- Respray the tank. As you can see in the photos petrol has started to eat the paint.

- Reshape the rear fender. It's looking a bit untidy at the moment, not sitting well with the rear wheel.

- Change tyres. PO put some overly fat rear tyre on. Will probably look for dual sport tyres in stock sizes.

- Fab a cleaner bracket for the speedo and tach.

- Fork rebuild.

- Tear down and clean!!!!!!

The stock plastic rear mudguard will be going on before it's properly ridden. It's at a friend's house at the moment...

I'm not 100% sold on the military cases for the battery and starter. They work well but I'm not sure if I like the look. But the point is it all works and is ready to be taken out. Hurrah.

Thanks everyone for all your help.

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crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
el barto said:
Lil word of warning to anyone doing front brake adjustments on a 360: with the minimum of force one of the edges of the slotted adjuster nut sheared off when I began messing with it. Literally one turn and it came off. Not sure if mine was unusually brittle but something to watch out for.

Bit less stressed at present so remembered something we always did (after breaking one of the adjuster screws on customer bike ::) )
Back off the locknut so it completely covers the slot/threads. That way the nut supports screw. Even then it doesn't always work as screw may be seized in fork leg. Probably 95% of the time it's all good though
 

el barto

Been Around the Block
Got the bike out for twenty miles today, felt amazing.

Right when I was getting home the battery died. It's 6ah, have I simply gone too small?

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adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Should be fine, if you are going kickstart only. I can't speak for battery size with an electric bump, though. I use a 5aH with kick only and never had a problem.

May be time to check your charging system, if you haven't already?
 

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