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I changed to a GL1000 Front end to get dual disc. I have a new master cylinder with a 14mm banjo bolt. I go to bleed the brakes today and I get fluid coming out of the breather but I can't get and resistance from the handle. Falls flat every time! What gives?
Would love some input on the two issues if anyone has any experience.
No idea about your clutch, but with your brakes what size MC are you running? New brake lines?
I found using a syringe to push the fluid back up through the calipers and out the MC works best for dry bleeding. If you do this, wrap the threads of the bleed nipples with some plumbers tape to stop air coming in and you should find it's pretty easy to get the pressure happening.
Ya, I've seen that guys videos. Pretty informative and I actually used them to get to the place where I am now. Only prob is that I need to see if I have adjusted the thing incorrectly and that's where this video stops.
Like I said with the cover off, the kick moves the crank, now it just spins freely. That correlates to the bike never getting in to gear.
No luck with the vacuum bleeder. I def have an issue somewhere. Here is what I get:
http://youtu.be/_TYVkf7BFUk
I have new steel braided lines, rebuilt calipers, new master cylinder... there has to be an leak somewhere, right? Either that or could the banjo bolts be too small or big?
So is that 'sucking' brake fluid down through the system? And it's sucking air into it from somewhere?
How are you feeding fresh brake fluid into the top end?
FWIW I use SpeedBleeder valves. You open them 1/4 or whatever turn, and stick a hose on them leading into a jar. Then from the M/C you just keep pumping fresh fluid down through the system. You have to make sure you don't pump air into the lines - i.e. keep the fluid topped up in the M/C. When the fluid is nice and clean and bubble free, you tighten the SpeedBleeder back down and call it a day.
They're just a check valve to only let fluid out, and nothing back in (a one-way valve). So you can't suck air back in from the bottom.
Your banjo bolts can't be the wrong size if they thread in properly. What did you mean by the wrong size?
I have one of those cheapy one way valves where you have a tube on either side and you attach it to the nipple and fluid only goes one way. I have the MC open and the wife would watch the level and pull the handle, bleeding the system. I got a clean, bubble free fluid coming through the line but when I would pull the handle, I had ZERO resistance with the cap back on.
Then yesterday I got the vacuum valve and I would do what I did in the video (get 20lbs of pressure, open the valve and... well you saw it) and after 30-45 min of trying that to no avail... I cam inside, but same thing.... no resistance at the handle.
With the banjo bolts, I meant that the hole drilled in them was the wrong size for the amount of fluid I'm pushing with the dual brake set up. What I bought said it was a GL1000 MC so, I hope that's not the case but I was throwing that out there. I also read some people are using double banjo bolts for dual disc setups...
Those vacuum pumps don't work that great for what you are doing there and you are pumping it up too much. You are sucking air past the threads on the bleeder or the connection at the bleeder and hose to your vac pump. You need some thread sealer on the bleeder threads to prevent leaking past the threads. Tim is right about Speed Bleeders, they work great and come with sealer on the threads and they are a check valve. Assuming there are no leaks in your system when the bleeders are tightened, then you should just start by filling the reservoir and pumping the lever slowly until you stop getting air bubbles out of the reservoir. Leave the bleeders tight and keep pumping, the air will rise to the top eventually and you should get some "pedal". Put your finger on the pads and check that they are moving. With an all new system that has been open it will take a while. Also open both bleeders at first and make sure you have fluid coming out on both sides.
I was getting fluid out of both sides with I was working with the more simpler valve. You might be on to something with too much suction. I got much better results in terms of keeping fluid in the line when it was around 5lbs of pressure.
I looked on Bike Bandit and couldnt see what size my bleeders were so I'll have to measure them tomorrow to get speed bleeders.
The speed bleeders aren't absolutely necessary, try what I said with bleeding it out the top first. Are you getting bubbles out of the bypass hole in the bottom of the reservoir when you pump the lever? Once you have fluid running out the bottom, close the bleeders and pump it until no more bubbles come up out of the top. That is actually the correct way to bleed it.
When I did this on Sat, I had clean, bubble free lines at the bleeders, and then no bubbles at the MC (when I pulled the lever just fluid shot up a bit) and when I closed the system back up... no "pedal".
It's easier to push it up from the bottom if you use a syringe. You can wrap some teflon tape around the bleeder threads and just open them enough to allow some flow. Do them one at a time. Make sure your hose is super tight on the nipple end of the bleeder. Don't use those ends that come with the vac pump, they usually leak. Then fill your syringe and push the fluid up and out the top. I have done this a lot and it can be a bitch I know! It sounds like you had all of the air all out at one time if you had just fluid coming up out of the top and no bubbles. Check and see if you are getting any movement of the pads next time you try. I have gone as far as taking the system off the bike and bleeding it out on the bench, but you shouldn't have to do that. Hopefully the M/C is good.
That's what Im worried about. At what point do I start trouble shooting those things? I feel like I have bled the system to the point of knowing something is not right. It's not the first time I have bled brakes. Even after bleeding it to no air in the lines... after a certain point I should feel some drag at the lever. Even with a new system, how long should that take?
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