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Looks like I am up for a new sliding gear and a new batch gear. At least that is what they are called on all the part sites.
The lack of any oil or grease in the gearbox also has me concerned. I know it has not been taken apart in the past 30 years and it was a PITA to pull apart, infact the input shaft nut is still stuck on.
Guess I've been lucky with old gearboxes...so may of the ones I have rebuilt have looked absolutely horrid on the outside, but more often than not, they were usually in pretty decent shape internally. Anyhow, stick with it...you will have a fully functional gearbox before you know it!
So from what I can find this gearbox is a road race ratio box and parts are hard to come by. I have found a new sliding gear but am having a hard time finding a 30 tooth main lay shaft gear which also serves as the kick gear. The teeth look like they have been broken off for some time and I believe it to be the reason this box was set aside for so long.
Going to a swap meet next month and will see if I can find a gear for it there. If not I may have to get a new one made up.
Magdyno arrived today. Cost me a bloody fortune but it works very well, everything is there and it even has a few stainless parts added on. Very clean as well, looks as if it just had a rebuild inside.
Looks like you have a good set there...whatever it cost, it was probably worth it. A decent magdyno will make the difference between a bike that starts first kick and one that you have to kick until you have a stroke to get it running.
I had a thought when I was looking at the head and base gasket sitting on top of the M20 cylinder.
Why do I need to cut that up? I need a box for the pushrod adjustment but why do I need that one? Won't it be much easier to just have flanges made up to match both bolt styles of the bases and then just get the spacing right between them for the stroke and weld a section of pipe with cooling fins and a tappet box between them.
Looks like I will be heading down to my local machine shop some time soon.
I had a thought when I was looking at the head and base gasket sitting on top of the M20 cylinder.
Why do I need to cut that up? I need a box for the pushrod adjustment but why do I need that one? Won't it be much easier to just have flanges made up to match both bolt styles of the bases and then just get the spacing right between them for the stroke and weld a section of pipe with cooling fins and a tappet box between them.
Looks like I will be heading down to my local machine shop some time soon.
Hmm, interesting option. I was going to try and avoid cast since it is a pain to weld on. I was tossing up between alloy or steel. Might even be able to do it in stainless if the boys at work will help me out.
Hmm, interesting option. I was going to try and avoid cast since it is a pain to weld on. I was tossing up between alloy or steel. Might even be able to do it in stainless if the boys at work will help me out.
"Cast" can be easy to weld "cast iron" is full of crap so it's tough, you can weld cast aluminum and cast steel much easier.
I built up this float post yesterday, looks like crap because it's so small and it kept falling through just as the metal flowed out. took a few shots but it worked fine.
So from what I can find this gearbox is a road race ratio box and parts are hard to come by. I have found a new sliding gear but am having a hard time finding a 30 tooth main lay shaft gear which also serves as the kick gear. The teeth look like they have been broken off for some time and I believe it to be the reason this box was set aside for so long.
Going to a swap meet next month and will see if I can find a gear for it there. If not I may have to get a new one made up.
I hope Swan doesn't mind me borrowing an image of his beautiful Gold Star to use as a base for a "Inspirational" example of what the finished motor should look like.
So by the look of that the motor won't look to out of place.
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