Building a "first bike" for my 17yo son...

Any thoughts on how to do the speedo drive on this? I was thinking of using this gauge from DCC, but it's cable driven. With my harley wheels, I'm not sure how to do this.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-parts-mini-chrome-white-face-speedo-speedometer-490291.html
 
I really need to get back to work on this. Bought my son a Buell Blast to ride this summer since we didn't get this done yet, and of course within 45 minutes the crank bearing went out. So I bought another Blast as a parts bike that had a good motor. Working on swapping that now.

In the mean time, I got the Harley rotors turned down to 11.5" so they'll work with the calipers I have.

Also, I think I may use the controls, levers, etc from the extra blast on the project bike. The rest I will probably part out if anyone needs anything
 
Do you happen to have a spare belly fairing from one of those Buells? Send me PM with price plus shipping to California 92373. Thanks!
 
There's no belly fairing on them.

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What looks like a fairing is actually the exhaust.

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I think the lightning has a belly fairing
 
Buell's are long gone. Someone smack me upside the head if I ever decide to buy another blast.

Anyway, started working on building a start stand for the 360 motor, ordered a gasket set. Going to test out this shelf full of spare motors I have and pick the best for the 850 piston conversion.

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Doesn't look like much yet, but by tomorrow evening I should have pics of the stand spring mounted on the dolly, and the engine on the stand. Should be running wiring by Thursday.
 
Start stand is 95% done.

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Wired it up today, but couldn't get it to fire. I didn't have my multimeter with me but it appears at least one set of points was sticking. Left set seemed ok, but the right set didn't want to fire on their own. If I actuated it on my own it would spark, but when I cranked it over it'd spark once then go dead. I was only using starting fluid, but it still didn't seemed to want to kick off, even on the one cylinder that was firing good. Hmmm....
 
Forgot to update the thread. Start stand worked like a charm. Had to change gas tanks and added an old throttle and a digital tach.

http://youtu.be/Z_QsGOlVnDE

Engine runs good for the most part. Has a drip from one of the carb drains. AAaaaaaand the cylinders are cracked in the chain tunnel. Oh well, got plenty more cylinders... waiting for a set to come back from the machine shop monday. Found a set of NOS GS850 pistons and rings. Score! :)

Copper gaskets are here, as are the rest of the regular gasket set. Popped apart another motor I had, to take a look at the head. Was very pleasantly surprised to remove the rocker box and find this:

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The chain guides are in awesome shape too!

Can't decide if I should trust this head to be as nice as it looks and use it, or if I should have it checked over (guides, seats, stem seals, etc). Also, should the head be milled at all for the big bore conversion?
 
You can take off .005" to clean it up, if you want. Or as much as .020" for a modest increase in compression.
 
Sonreir said:
You can take off .005" to clean it up, if you want. Or as much as .020" for a modest increase in compression.

I'm using the copper gaskets with the following specs:

1 head gasket .063" x 69.5mm
1 base gasket .032"

Does that change your suggestions at all? I'm not sure until I start putting things together where the piston will be in the bore. Should I wait until I get to that point so I can set squish height? How does that work with copper gaskets... I don't believe they are reusable and without compressing the base gasket I'm not sure how to measure the deck height accurately.
 
Copper gaskets are definitely reusable. That's one of their better features. Traditional gaskets tend to seal better, but copper is the choice material for people who tinker.

Why so thick on the head gasket? I think I'm running .032" on mine...
 
Sonreir said:
Copper gaskets are definitely reusable. That's one of their better features. Traditional gaskets tend to seal better, but copper is the choice material for people who tinker.

Why so thick on the head gasket? I think I'm running .032" on mine...

Those were the numbers crazypj gave me and I wasn't one to question his knowledge on it. I just copied and pasted the info into an email to Lani.
 
started working on the fender strut setup. built a quick and dirty bending fixture and went to work. Worked pretty good

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Tomorrow I will work on integrating these bits and pieces:
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A while back I designed some fixtures to hold these tubes so the ends could be chamfered, fittings pressed on, and then the other end cut to length. These were samples they sent us. They've been sitting around for months, so I asked if I could have them. DOM mandrel bent 1.5" OD. Perfect to cut up into motorcycle exhaust. Score! :D

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started mocking up the exhaust tonight. Still needs a lot of tweaking but I wanted to see if I could make it work. Could have used some tighter mandrel bends, but I think it will be ok.

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I was originally going to go with the shotgun style...

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but I think I like the long look better. Plus I think it will less obnoxious.

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Started another mockup of the fender strut. I think it's headed the right direction, but it's certainly not the final design. This is just 1/4" rod (easy to bend yet still weldable and rigid.

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CALfeRacer said:
Are you gonna go straight pipes or put baffles in there?
Dig that headlight setup

they are stock diameter pipes... not sure where I'd find baffles to fit in there.

I like the dual headlights too. I think I will swap out the bulbs for LED though.
 
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