Durgam_K
Been Around the Block
I have finally had a chance to look over a friends 360, and we can go a couple differetn ways with this one.
First......Mount my pegs and levers directly to the passenge peg holes, with a small spacer behind to help clear the welds and frame. The down side to this is its real close to the pipes on a factory exhaust system. the Upside is it will deifintly clear the kicker with solid pegs!!! Which will help keep costs down. And with a minimal spacer, that will also help keep costs down.
Second..... I can design a bracket that will bolt to the passenger peg hole, and extend forward about 3 inches. It will have a tab machined on it to reset on the lower tube of the passenger peg frame mounts. The will be a central boss, to mount the pegs and levers to. This will give exhaust clearance, but may hinder kicker clearance at the toe peg. The kick arm geometry is great in that it already angles away from the frame quite a bit.
The brake setup will be pretty straight forward. I will remove the existing pedal and re use the pivot for it. making a shaft and lever system similar to whats already there, just with no 3lb steel pedal!!! A lever on the inside of the frame to actuate the stock clevis arm, and a lever on the outside to mount linkage and brake switch to.
Leave your thoghts and ideas, and complaints. thanks,
Kris.
First......Mount my pegs and levers directly to the passenge peg holes, with a small spacer behind to help clear the welds and frame. The down side to this is its real close to the pipes on a factory exhaust system. the Upside is it will deifintly clear the kicker with solid pegs!!! Which will help keep costs down. And with a minimal spacer, that will also help keep costs down.
Second..... I can design a bracket that will bolt to the passenger peg hole, and extend forward about 3 inches. It will have a tab machined on it to reset on the lower tube of the passenger peg frame mounts. The will be a central boss, to mount the pegs and levers to. This will give exhaust clearance, but may hinder kicker clearance at the toe peg. The kick arm geometry is great in that it already angles away from the frame quite a bit.
The brake setup will be pretty straight forward. I will remove the existing pedal and re use the pivot for it. making a shaft and lever system similar to whats already there, just with no 3lb steel pedal!!! A lever on the inside of the frame to actuate the stock clevis arm, and a lever on the outside to mount linkage and brake switch to.
Leave your thoghts and ideas, and complaints. thanks,
Kris.