CB175 Cafe Buildup - The beginnings of something... small.

Booligan

Booligan

Been Around the Block
Time for my second buildup. First was my CB750 two up Cafe/Streetfighter mild buildup. This will be a little more aggressive, albeit much much slower. Starting with a practically free 1970 CB175:

d20c87f6.jpg


a98b9c42.jpg


3cc452c5.jpg


Currently not running. Tank full of rust. Carbs needing rebuild. Motor isn't locked up though, so it's got potential. No major rust except for what's in the tank. Full teardown will start over the next few days. This one will be a frame off job.

I'm thinking solo cafe seat, clip ons, straight pipes, pods, all that jazz. Nothing too groundbreaking here. Few ideas kicking around my head for paint, maybe a Gulf Oil scheme or something. Not sure yet. We'll see what we end up with!
 
Nice start for a project. I see you have a cracked left cover. Do you happen to have the right side? I dont like the CB175 frame because it is not easy to run pods. You have to make up an extension or jerry rig it somehow.
 
ffjmoore said:
Nice start for a project. I see you have a cracked left cover. Do you happen to have the right side? I dont like the CB175 frame because it is not easy to run pods. You have to make up an extension or jerry rig it somehow.
Click to expand...

huh? You just need to buy them with 45 degree boots. Buddy, building a bike isnt easy... Just because you see a bunch of ya-hoo's on this board doing something doesnt make it correct!

should probably learn a little at your own expense 1st, Then offer advice.
 
Bike is now home and ready to be yanked apart:


DSC_4336.jpg


DSC_4337.jpg


DSC_4338.jpg


DSC_4340.jpg


DSC_4341.jpg


DSC_4342.jpg


Few observations. Tons o' rust powder in the tank. I'll do the old nuts n bolts in the drier trick to see how far I can get with it, before I do a chemical rust stripping. Paint is FUBAR, so I'll strip it down to see what kind of metal I'm dealing with.

Other issue is that the oil is quite clear and smells like gas. Bike hasn't been ridden in 5 years or so, so I'm expecting to at least yank the motor and giving it a once over before throwing it all back together. Otherwise, it's a start.
 
Swapmeet Louie said:
huh? You just need to buy them with 45 degree boots. Buddy, building a bike isnt easy... Just because you see a bunch of ya-hoo's on this board doing something doesnt make it correct!

should probably learn a little at your own expense 1st, Then offer advice.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your condescending wisdom. I have built a few bikes and was just trying to help a guy out by pointing out something i found while working on my cb175.
 
These can be a really fun platform. This is a full race one I built a few yrs ago...(not bragging, just inspiration)

p_00108.jpg


p_00113.jpg
 
Looks good. I like the CL pipes on there, it's something I'm debating doing with mine. It needs new pipes anyways as one of the mufflers is rusted through.
 
Did you baffle those cl pipes? I'm running cl pipes on the sl I'm working on. I figure I'll build some baffles since the stock muffler is pretty restrictive and I'm not building a race machine.
 
Bike continues to get stripped down. Pulled the gauges, bars, front of the wiring harness, and started on pulling the forks and front tire. Lots of tackle boxes full of various nuts and bolts now.
 
Not sure what your plans include but in many states (maybe the whole country) a bike sold before Jan. 1973 is not required to have blinkers. I prefer to have blinkers on bikes i ride in traffic. Its nice to let people around know what your doing so they are less likely to run you over. But bikes look so much cleaner w/o them. Just some info in case you did not know.


Looks like its ok in Utah also. Page 17
http://publicsafety.utah.gov/safetyinspections/docs/2011-2012%20SI%20Motorcycle%20Manual.pdf
 
Yeah, I wasn't planning on running blinkers on this one. I've got a copy of the Utah Motorcycle Safety Inspection handbook, so I'm keeping track of exactly what I can get away with, haha.
 
So why tear it down before getting it running and working as it should?
kinda hard to get it going when its in boxes
 
Engine is getting a bench rebuild anyways. Everything is coming out that is needed to do that, and to catalog condition of parts to see what will need to be replaced once it's running again.
 
She's pretty far from clean with what I'm seeing so far, hah. The old, 5 + year old gas in the crankcase tells me that I'll probably need to do some bottom end work on the rod bearings, and depending on how washed down the cylinders are, may need to do some work up there. Suspicious of the ring condition too. Hence why it's coming out and coming apart.
 
ffjmoore said:
Did you baffle those cl pipes? I'm running cl pipes on the sl I'm working on. I figure I'll build some baffles since the stock muffler is pretty restrictive and I'm not building a race machine.
Click to expand...
No
 
Pulled the front sprocket cover off, I was concerned about low compression as the wheel was still able to be turned when in gear. Harder to turn than when in neutral, but still was easier than it should have been. Turns out the clutch cable was seized in place at about half application. Yanked the old cruddy cable out, and the clutch popped back down, locking up the rear wheel. So, looks like she's got compression!

Also, after pulling the ears and lower covers, I can see that the top half of the forks have a fair bit of surface rust. Going to work on that a bit to clean it up. The compression portions of the forks are squeaky clean though, and they've got good compression from what I can see. Now I've got a much better idea of what I'm dealing with and what I need to plan for down the line. With a bike like this that's so damn easy to pull apart and put back together, I'd much rather have a decent roadmap of where I'm going before I really focus on any one thing.
 
My 175 forks were thrashed. I used a set off my parts bike and cleaned them up with emery cloth. But as long as the for seal area isnt pitted they should be good. It was just going to be hard to get a new fork seal over these barnacles.
IMAG0505.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom