Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I would highly recommend the KA tensioner from bore tech. It's a single peice unit that replaces all the pulley shit. All you need to reuse is the metal pin insert. Less to go wrong. That's what I'm using on every one of my 350's.
The KA's are apparently pretty bullet proof from what I hear. You don't NEED to change the chain but I would put on a new heavy duty one....wait I do always put on a heavy duty one. lol.
I would highly recommend the KA tensioner from bore tech. It's a single peice unit that replaces all the pulley shit. All you need to reuse is the metal pin insert. Less to go wrong. That's what I'm using on every one of my 350's.
Don't mean to threadjack . I'm shopping for new tensioner wheels as well and the KA tensioner looks like a better option. I was wondering about what is reused. I've misplaced one of the two plastic pieces (#10 on fiche) that is used in combination with the metal pin insert (#8+9) I assume you are talking about. Any insight on this?
Not to bring this back from the dead, but do you know if all you need is the fat metal pin? Do you also need the little retainer pieces for each end of the fat pin? I ask because I lost one of those damn things...
Crap. Yeah you need those. You can get them from "bikebandit" though or order from dealer. They're not cheap for what they are. Something like $12 a piece. All you should need is the fat pin and those 2 rubber thingies. I actually opened a couple motors that were running without them but figured better safe than sorry. Honda must have put them in there for a reason.
Crap. Yeah you need those. You can get them from "bikebandit" though or order from dealer. They're not cheap for what they are. Something like $12 a piece. All you should need is the fat pin and those 2 rubber thingies. I actually opened a couple motors that were running without them but figured better safe than sorry. Honda must have put them in there for a reason.
You know now that you mention it, I am not certain both were there when i opening it up. I had just assumed they were, but that is very possible. I'm being lazy - have the part number or a link handy where I can pick one up? Thanks.
personally I wasn't too impressed with Ka, seemed to wear quicker than expected.
Good for a race motor operating at 10~12,000rpm, not so good for street (get about 2-1/2 seasons on race 350)
personally I wasn't too impressed with Ka, seemed to wear quicker than expected.
Good for a race motor operating at 10~12,000rpm, not so good for street (get about 2-1/2 seasons on race 350)
Thanks for the input. What are your thoughts on this replacement roller set? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TENSIONER-SET-for-CB350-CL350-SL350-CAM-CHAIN-TENSIONER-PA6G-polyamide-CNC-/251150316102?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a79b9b246
I thought someone on here was making them as well?
Looks like the 'sprocket' one has needle roller bearing in it, if the plain one has needles as well it will easily outlast the originals plus have less friction than slipper tensioner.
I would go for it if I had any 350's (been looking for a way to convert 360's to roller tensioner)
I thought someone on here was making them as well?
Looks like the 'sprocket' one has needle roller bearing in it, if the plain one has needles as well it will easily outlast the originals plus have less friction than slipper tensioner.
I would go for it if I had any 350's (been looking for a way to convert 360's to roller tensioner)
I'm in the same boat here. Got an SL350 that I can find the lower roller for, but the upper has been a pain. I guess I should look at the dealer? Or is the guy that makes them still around?
This is the seller from Poland that made the polyamide roller wheels but he hasn't had any for sale recently. I have a pair and they're excellent quality although I haven't used them yet.
I thought someone on here was making them as well?
Looks like the 'sprocket' one has needle roller bearing in it, if the plain one has needles as well it will easily outlast the originals plus have less friction than slipper tensioner.
I would go for it if I had any 350's (been looking for a way to convert 360's to roller tensioner)
And I'm trying to convert a couple of small race CBs from rollers to slipper for better cam control. Rollers are great for the street but not so good on the race track. I had two break up going down the main straight at Phillip Island causing engine stoppage and very bent valves and snapped rocker arms.
For the street I'd like to try those new plastic rollers or just fit stock OEM rubber rollers.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
. I'm shopping for new tensioner wheels as well and the KA tensioner looks like a better option. I was wondering about what is reused. I've misplaced one of the two plastic pieces (#10 on fiche) that is used in combination with the metal pin insert (#8+9) I assume you are talking about. Any insight on this?
