CB350 Sly... Now with 2 finger braking!!!
- Thread starter overdraft
- Start date
(but I have nice new ones now 
broncoboy79
Been Around the Block
CB350 Sly... Ton-less
Man I wish somebody sold those exhausts for 350s. I would've bought one already. I have zero friends that weld.
Man I wish somebody sold those exhausts for 350s. I would've bought one already. I have zero friends that weld.
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
hey, does anyone know if i can replace a rocker without taking the motor out? and also if you can change your cam timing without taking the motor out...
i have a rocker that i guess got bent in a previous life because it can't make up the distance to the valve stem and it clatters about...
also i have this weird feeling that i may not have retensioned my brand new cam chain soon enough to get the initial slack out of it and i'm wondering if i jumped a tooth...
thanks!
hey, does anyone know if i can replace a rocker without taking the motor out? and also if you can change your cam timing without taking the motor out...
i have a rocker that i guess got bent in a previous life because it can't make up the distance to the valve stem and it clatters about...
also i have this weird feeling that i may not have retensioned my brand new cam chain soon enough to get the initial slack out of it and i'm wondering if i jumped a tooth...
thanks!
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
Twin front discs?! You aren't upgrading the bike without taking more pics are you?? Say it ain't so!
Twin front discs?! You aren't upgrading the bike without taking more pics are you?? Say it ain't so!
whynot
~~~If it ain't raining, I'm riding~~{iii}?~~prost~
Re: CB350 Sly... DONE!
This picture shows you have the forks mounted backwards.
That may explain your braking issues........brakes on one side vs. front on left and rear on right.
Also the drain screws should face to the back for better drainage.
Beautiful bike, none the less.
overdraft said:
This picture shows you have the forks mounted backwards.
That may explain your braking issues........brakes on one side vs. front on left and rear on right.
Also the drain screws should face to the back for better drainage.
Beautiful bike, none the less.
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
thanks!
the brake is behind the fork on purpose. i liked the look better. the brake arm being in compression rather than tension is nothing to do with my braking issue... the brake works just fine for a period correct part, i'm just finding it inadequate for my taste.
thanks!
the brake is behind the fork on purpose. i liked the look better. the brake arm being in compression rather than tension is nothing to do with my braking issue... the brake works just fine for a period correct part, i'm just finding it inadequate for my taste.
pacomotorstuff
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
The brake caliper behind the fork leg was a common modification when we roadraced the CB500's / 750's back in the day and it worked just fine.
The idea is to get the weight of the caliper behind the fork leg, to give a bit quicker steering (the aft location is what you see on most bikes today). The 350's caliper mount is pretty robust and doesn't give a hoot whether its in compression or tension, just like the bigger CB's didn't.
Another thing we did on the race bikes was to get rid of the adjustment screw and spring and let the caliper float - seemed to work fine on the track but I'd need them installed to get the safety check here in Ontario.
I'm doing the same change on my 175 tracker with the CB350 forks - reversed caliper. Still a bit of fab to do since I want the speedo (we talked about this awhile ago...).
Ages ago I had a CB350 front end on a 125 road racer with a second disc bolted to the hub using longer bolts (I had spec'ed out aircraft-grade hardware). The issue of course is how to hang on the second caliper. What we designed was a mechanical antidive that had a mount for the caliper and an adjustment so you could dial in some, a little or no dive or even make the front end climb if you wanted it to under braking. Looked okay on a race bike but I think the levers and arms and pivots might look a little odd on a street bike.
Let me know what you come up with regarding a larger disc - I didn't have any luck finding a larger 4 bolt rotor, though I guess I could get a carrier machined up. The CB350 caliper mounts aren't very amenable to adaptation for a larger rotor either but I guess with enough design, welding and machining, anything is possible.
Maybe the easiest thing for you to do is adapt a CB500/550 front end; a lot of the vintage road racers back here in Ontario do this and it allows you the opportunity to run twin discs and a lot stiffer fork to boot.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Pacomotorstuff
The brake caliper behind the fork leg was a common modification when we roadraced the CB500's / 750's back in the day and it worked just fine.
The idea is to get the weight of the caliper behind the fork leg, to give a bit quicker steering (the aft location is what you see on most bikes today). The 350's caliper mount is pretty robust and doesn't give a hoot whether its in compression or tension, just like the bigger CB's didn't.
Another thing we did on the race bikes was to get rid of the adjustment screw and spring and let the caliper float - seemed to work fine on the track but I'd need them installed to get the safety check here in Ontario.
I'm doing the same change on my 175 tracker with the CB350 forks - reversed caliper. Still a bit of fab to do since I want the speedo (we talked about this awhile ago...).
Ages ago I had a CB350 front end on a 125 road racer with a second disc bolted to the hub using longer bolts (I had spec'ed out aircraft-grade hardware). The issue of course is how to hang on the second caliper. What we designed was a mechanical antidive that had a mount for the caliper and an adjustment so you could dial in some, a little or no dive or even make the front end climb if you wanted it to under braking. Looked okay on a race bike but I think the levers and arms and pivots might look a little odd on a street bike.
Let me know what you come up with regarding a larger disc - I didn't have any luck finding a larger 4 bolt rotor, though I guess I could get a carrier machined up. The CB350 caliper mounts aren't very amenable to adaptation for a larger rotor either but I guess with enough design, welding and machining, anything is possible.
Maybe the easiest thing for you to do is adapt a CB500/550 front end; a lot of the vintage road racers back here in Ontario do this and it allows you the opportunity to run twin discs and a lot stiffer fork to boot.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Pacomotorstuff
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
EX500 rotors will bolt onto Honda center, at least I'm told they will.
I fitted a Yamaha rotor but run out of cash to get it thinned down so it isn't finished yet
I also run calipers behind fork leg on my dual disc 550 and have done it on 360's
EX500 rotors will bolt onto Honda center, at least I'm told they will.
I fitted a Yamaha rotor but run out of cash to get it thinned down so it isn't finished yet
I also run calipers behind fork leg on my dual disc 550 and have done it on 360's
TomTerrific
New Member
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
Have you greased the cable? It's one of the must-do's with an old bike. Pull the inner cable out and wipe it clean with a rag, maybe some P-oil. Use fingers to grease it lightly. Wipe off the top 6 inches so the grease doen't migrate into the tach mechanism.
Might as well do the speedo while you're at it.
Tom
Have you greased the cable? It's one of the must-do's with an old bike. Pull the inner cable out and wipe it clean with a rag, maybe some P-oil. Use fingers to grease it lightly. Wipe off the top 6 inches so the grease doen't migrate into the tach mechanism.
Might as well do the speedo while you're at it.
Tom
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Ton-less
Thanks guys! The cable was brand new so even though I didn't specifically take note of it's lubage I'm suspecting the guage... thinking I'll get a new(er) one. I'd like to put an XL one on, even though the redline will be all wrong, because it has an angled boss for the cable to attach to which would allow the cable to get past the back of my headlight without being hard against it... anyone know if the gauges are compatible otherwise?
Thanks guys! The cable was brand new so even though I didn't specifically take note of it's lubage I'm suspecting the guage... thinking I'll get a new(er) one. I'd like to put an XL one on, even though the redline will be all wrong, because it has an angled boss for the cable to attach to which would allow the cable to get past the back of my headlight without being hard against it... anyone know if the gauges are compatible otherwise?
