CB350 Sly... Now with 2 finger braking!!!

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

I don't know if you checked clearance but your battery tray looks real low.
Fully compressed (springs off, on bump stop) the stock shocks are 10"
I have a bar cut/drilled to hold wheel in full compressed position to check clearance.
You need around 1/4"~3/8" minimum clearance on full bump.
 
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Outstanding fun build and a real eye for detail. Not to steal your thread, but couple of comments and a question or 2:
1) for the big rear sprocket clip, you can get circlip pliers (you need outside ones) from CTC, Princess Auto, wherever. Your little homemade tool is the bomb but there is a (relatively) cheap solution to be had commercially. My pliers were really cheap - a friend gave me his. I hit this problem for the first time in 1969 and let me tell you, 2 ice picks and a lot of swearing will get the job done, but it's not much fun and the resulting cuts and scratches take awhile to heal...
2) reversing the location of the front brake caliper means swapping the legs, left for right and vice versa. I did it on one of my track bikes but what about a speedo for the street? I looked at using the disc on the right side of the hub where the speedo drive is (those are thru bolts on the CB350 /360 hubs) but my issue is clearance between the speedo cable and the disc. I've been through my boxes of "stuff" and found a speedo drive from something that has the cable drive at an angle and will probably go with that and adapt it somehow, but what are you doing? In Ontario, I need a speedo to pass a safety check..
3) outstanding powdercoat on the swingarm, but I couldn't help noticing what I think are the stock steel swingarm bushings. You've done an outstanding job of upgrading the front end with tapered bearings and I'd suggest you get a set of new swingarm bushings if you can find them, or the bronze ones that some guys have for sale. As for myself, I've ordered up some industrial oilite bushings that are "close, but no cigar regarding size. They need extra shimming to adjust the endplay in the stock frame but then again my frame ain't stock, so no bigs...
Like I said, cool build.
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass by Pacomotorstuff
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Jared said:
Whoa! nice man! Where did you get the light? I have been looking for one.
stonetree said:
Really nice man the bikes looking great. And seconded on the light, where did you find that?
thanks guys! i appreciate the kind words! the taillight was an ebay buy but it was so long ago i don't have the listing/vendor, but here's the exact same thing in chrome so if you hunt a bit more i'm sure you can find the black one...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-INTEGRATED-LED-BRAKE-TAIL-LIGHTS-/180487040869?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a05ddaf65

edit: here's a black one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Black-Universal-Motorcycle-Integrated-Tail-Brake-Light_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dSIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ252BUAQ252BFICSQ26otnQ3d10Q26pmodQ3d180487040869Q252B250780944849Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d63Q26clkidQ3d7503501507541504177QQ_trksidZp5197Q2em263QQcategoryZ35598QQitemZ320665233848
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

crazypj said:
I don't know if you checked clearance but your battery tray looks real low.
Fully compressed (springs off, on bump stop) the stock shocks are 10"
I have a bar cut/drilled to hold wheel in full compressed position to check clearance.
You need around 1/4"~3/8" minimum clearance on full bump.
thanks for the heads up! it's gonna be super close... i put the shocks in a bar clamp and max compression is 11" and that's exactly what i have room for... i may rethink it or i may run it and see if it hits and adjust as necessary...
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Pacomotorstuff,
glad you're enjoying the build!
ya i looked for a big set of outside circlip pliers at the local automotive tool shop and couldn't find anything in stock so i build my own beast...
i'm gonna take a chance on no speedo... the bike is already past all the regulations so it'll just be if i get pulled over and busted for not having one and i guess i can put something temporary on if that happens. i cut open the speedo drive and got the spacer out of it so the wheel mounts properly.
the swing arm bushing/spacer setup is all new old stock parts... the wear was minimal but i replaced them all anyway. the oem stuff may not be as good as some of the new ones people are fabricating, but i'm prettty sure it'll get me to the coffee shop!
 

CBdublin

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Yeah this build is really clean and I love that you're keeping the old school stuff. just my preference and Im only 25. I wish I could break down my bike like this but its my daily driver :-\ keep it up.
 

lassenc

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Since you've gone so far with the motor for a cleaner setup, I'd suggest a straight fitting on the brake caliper, would look so much better and remove any strain the bend might cause.
 

kMoto

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

I didn't see that you got your brake MC issues resolved. I might have some useful input. I had an modern motocross bike that had the worst MC to bleed. I used to get very very frustrated and give up. I eventually figured it out and haven't had a stubborn MC since.

I'm not sure w/ your other ones if you were building some pressure or none at all. I just put a MC from a motocross bike on my 360 (same caliper) and it works just fine w/ a 5/16 MC (comes out to like 8mm). It honestly could be a little stiffer, but it feels no diff. than the same one that was on my moto bike, and raced w/ that every weekend.

It sounds like your were getting nothing at all. In that case, you might want to try this.

Sometimes there is a little bubble that will form right inside the MC at the end of the banjo bolt. It it is big enough that the fluid will move around the bubble before the bubble will bleed out. You have to start by filling the entire system with fluid, which ever way you choose. If you crack the bleeder screw at the caliper, and remove the cap from the reservoir, you should get some fluid flowing freely through the bleeder. It won't be much, but enough that you know it's moving. That will verify that you have fluid all the way through the line to the caliper.

At this point I do a couple of bleed reps. Pump, pump, crack the bleeder and hold the lever, close the bleeder. Now you have to bleed the brakes @ the MC, through the banjo bolt. The key to this is to position your bars and the MC in whatever way you can to get the banjo bolt angled upward. If it is angled downward, the bubble will follow gravity upward, and just sit in there.

So, now pump the lever a few times, hold it, and crack the UPPER BANJO BOLT, then close it, and release the lever. Just like you would do, if you were cracking the bleeder screw. I will bleed at the banjo bolt once or twice, then bleed it at the caliper once or twice. By that point you should be building pressure.

I know this sounds odd, but I have had those stubborn MC's that I've tried everything on. This is always the trick up my sleeve, works every time.
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

lassenc said:
Since you've gone so far with the motor for a cleaner setup, I'd suggest a straight fitting on the brake caliper, would look so much better and remove any strain the bend might cause.
hey lassenc! are you talking about the brake line fitting? the banjo bolt hole is angled inward towards the wheel... the stock setup has a short hardline section that needs to tuck in and go inside the fork (remember that i've swapped the forks and the stock setup has the caliper in front of the forks) so if you go with a straight fitting the brake line wants to rub on the wheel... the 45° on the lower fitting serves to neutralize the angle of the bolt hole and guide the brake line away from the wheel. i agree it's not as clean as a straight one, but i couldn't think of a better way of keeping the line off the wheel... this pic sorta shows it...
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

CBdublin said:
Yeah this build is really clean and I love that you're keeping the old school stuff. just my preference and Im only 25. I wish I could break down my bike like this but its my daily driver :-\ keep it up.
thanks! i still have a fantasy that i might be riding this summer....

kMoto said:
I didn't see that you got your brake MC issues resolved. I might have some useful input. I had an modern motocross bike that had the worst MC to bleed. I used to get very very frustrated and give up. I eventually figured it out and haven't had a stubborn MC since.
thanks for the tip... you're right that it's not totally resolved and i'll be trying your advice shortly... i eventually did get SOME bite on the brake, but it's not totally satisfactory... i've left it for a few days hoping that if the problem is still air that it'll all accumulate somewhere and give me an easier 'target'... stay tuned!
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

OK! brakes resolved... i had assumed that the problem was one or both of not bled properly and the bore of the cylinder being too small to actuate the brake, but the issue turned out to be an alignment one. basically most of the master cylinder stroke was used up flexing the brake components into line so by the time it was actually putting pressure on the disc the lever was almost at the handlebar... so when i finally looked at how much everything was flexing i revisted the alignments and ended up filing the top pivot mount so that the whole system was lined up and voila! killer brakes! so with that i shall wholeheartedly endorse the generic brake masters that you can get from the 'usa-motorcycles-inc' ebay store...
 

adriannarnold

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Fantastic looking build...Really good attention to detail.
Your build is giving me a lot of great pointers for when I do a complete build of my bike. Right now I am just doing smaller minor stuff and focusing mostly on getting it back up and running.


Keep up the great work.
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

adriannarnold said:
Fantastic looking build...Really good attention to detail.
Thanks!

On the weekend I took crazypj's advice and redid my battery tray to resolve what may have been a rear tire clearance issue...


New:


Old:


Sorry for the weak updates... something more interesting soon i hope!
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Glad to hear that you worked out the brake issues. Misalignment is a common problem on old Yamahas too. Probably because parts have been on and off so many times that things are worn. My trick with them if I can't get rid of that rubbery feeling is to loosen the caliper mounts and that usually turns a soft brake into a hard one. Then I have to hold the brake on and measure the gaps and find a combination of washers (shims) that bring everything back into line.

BTW, another alternate on the brake hose is to take it forwards around the outside of the fork slider. Make sure that there is no way for the hoses to contact the tire under heavy braking. I have seen hoses torn off after they touched and the tire grabbed them.
 

Koncretekid

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

Regarding the Sl motor, you have already discovered that the crank is different. I also believe that the transmission shafts are shorter and not interchangeable. Check before you switch.
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... font brake and rolling chassis

thanks for the heads up! there seem to be a bunch of SL transmissions on eharmony so i have a plan b if the cb ones don't swap...
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... opening up the engine!

OK... opening up the engine! this is new for me... i've done 2 strokes before but this is my first trip inside a 4 stroke...


and instantly trouble... pitted cam... soooo... does anyone know if these can be fixed? i don't want to buy a race cam for $400 that needs upgraded springs and makes the bike all cranky to ride around town, but the oem ones are discontinued. any thoughts or help appreciated!
 

surffly

Active Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... opening up the motor - cam trouble!

if your going to replace that cam i think that you want to look for an early type one CB350 cam. i think they were better. i know those motors made a few more HP then the latter ones.
ill did out mine monday or so and see if i can show a difference
 

overdraft

New Member
Re: CB350 'Sly'... opening up the motor - cam trouble!

thanks for the tip! that might be a way to go... although i found a local outfit that says they will resurface my cam and do a reprofile that will add a little bit of performance but works with stock pistons and valves... for $150. does that sound reasonable to anyone?

Also, has anyone used these pistons? $99 looks like a decent price for all new bits as well as the pistons themselves... but not if they're shite...



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380325580367&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
 

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