CB350 Sly... Now with 2 finger braking!!!
- Thread starter overdraft
- Start date
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Oil filter question?
OK, so I'm trying to get this bugger wired up... and I SUCK at wiring... so far I've got the light package working with the exception of the turn signals... hopefully get that done tonight, and then on to hiding the bundles. Next will be hooking up the Pamco pointless ignition (hoping it's NOT pointless!) and PUTTING OIL IN and then test fire! Did I remind myself to PUT OIL IN? Meanwhile a couple pics for y'all...
Head...
Rear End...
OK, so I'm trying to get this bugger wired up... and I SUCK at wiring... so far I've got the light package working with the exception of the turn signals... hopefully get that done tonight, and then on to hiding the bundles. Next will be hooking up the Pamco pointless ignition (hoping it's NOT pointless!) and PUTTING OIL IN and then test fire! Did I remind myself to PUT OIL IN? Meanwhile a couple pics for y'all...
Head...
Rear End...
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Check out my head! And my Rear End!
ok, anyone know anything about wiring a 350? I'm SO close to being able to try and fire this thing up... it's KILLING me....
so the entire light package works EXCEPT the turn signal indicator light in the tach. There's a pale blue and an orange wire coming out of the tach, which should seemingly be connected to the H shaped connectors that attach ths switch, front, and rear signal together (blue to blue, orange to orange). Yet when I do it doesn't turn the indicator light on and it messes up the signal operation...
The PO had some weird stuff going on so I'm also wondering about this: there's a white wire that comes out of the main harness that is connected to a yellow wire that goes right back into the harness... does that seem legit?
Thanks for any help you can throw my way... and seriously... if you've got paypal...
ok, anyone know anything about wiring a 350? I'm SO close to being able to try and fire this thing up... it's KILLING me....
so the entire light package works EXCEPT the turn signal indicator light in the tach. There's a pale blue and an orange wire coming out of the tach, which should seemingly be connected to the H shaped connectors that attach ths switch, front, and rear signal together (blue to blue, orange to orange). Yet when I do it doesn't turn the indicator light on and it messes up the signal operation...
The PO had some weird stuff going on so I'm also wondering about this: there's a white wire that comes out of the main harness that is connected to a yellow wire that goes right back into the harness... does that seem legit?
Thanks for any help you can throw my way... and seriously... if you've got paypal...
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB350 Sly... I will literally GIVE you money...
The white and yellow are bypass for the light switch/alternator, it's fine and means you get full output all the time
As for indicator idiot light what type of flasher relay are you using and have you fitted LED indicators?
You may have to fit left and right warning lights with LED?
The white and yellow are bypass for the light switch/alternator, it's fine and means you get full output all the time
As for indicator idiot light what type of flasher relay are you using and have you fitted LED indicators?
You may have to fit left and right warning lights with LED?
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... I will literally GIVE you money...
Thanks for the hint!
So outside of installing the LED idiot light and hiding the wires the lighting package is complete. It's turned out pretty well... knowing that these things don't produce a ton of electricity I wanted to be able to turn the headlight off during the day. I had to get new throttle side switch gear without a cable perch because I swapped to a disc brake front end so I found one that was old enough to still have an OFF switch. I jumped the tail light off the switch so it runs all the time... it's LED so shouldn't draw much and it'll keep the popo off my ass if I've got a full time tail light. So it's all LED now except headlight, neutral light, highbeam indicator and gauge lighting.
Yes, you pretty much nailed it... I got up this morning and read your pre-edit post about the the bypass which was helpful because it eliminated those wires from the equation and then I had the same thought that maybe it was a load issue because I was mixing an incandescent idiot light with all LED turn signals. I tested it with an LED and presto! I still have to sort out how I'm going to cram the LED's into the tach, but that seems doable!crazypj said:
Thanks for the hint!
So outside of installing the LED idiot light and hiding the wires the lighting package is complete. It's turned out pretty well... knowing that these things don't produce a ton of electricity I wanted to be able to turn the headlight off during the day. I had to get new throttle side switch gear without a cable perch because I swapped to a disc brake front end so I found one that was old enough to still have an OFF switch. I jumped the tail light off the switch so it runs all the time... it's LED so shouldn't draw much and it'll keep the popo off my ass if I've got a full time tail light. So it's all LED now except headlight, neutral light, highbeam indicator and gauge lighting.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB350 Sly... Lighting package sorted!
Easiest way to turn headlight off is cut ground lead and fit an on/off switch into circuit
You still have tail light but with LED the draw is minimal
If you keep motor over 3,000 rpm most of the time you can run low beam without problems, the battery will cope with idle at red lights, junctions, etc
It's low rpm operation in traffic (below 2,000rpm) that allows voltage to drop so battery won't charge
The other thing you could do is fit a 'Euro' style sidelight into headlight reflector then use LED ' instrument bulb', they are real cheap on eBay
Easiest way to turn headlight off is cut ground lead and fit an on/off switch into circuit
You still have tail light but with LED the draw is minimal
If you keep motor over 3,000 rpm most of the time you can run low beam without problems, the battery will cope with idle at red lights, junctions, etc
It's low rpm operation in traffic (below 2,000rpm) that allows voltage to drop so battery won't charge
The other thing you could do is fit a 'Euro' style sidelight into headlight reflector then use LED ' instrument bulb', they are real cheap on eBay
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Lighting package sorted!
Luckily I was able to source switchgear with an OFF position for the headlight so no further wiring or switches required. Phew! The battery I am using is tiny so I'm just crossing my fingers that it'll keep up with the lights when I'm going slow at night. I may try the LED 'headlight' mod this winter depending on how I make out... for the time being though I just wanna get this thing to the point where I can actually *gasp* RIDE it!
Luckily I was able to source switchgear with an OFF position for the headlight so no further wiring or switches required. Phew! The battery I am using is tiny so I'm just crossing my fingers that it'll keep up with the lights when I'm going slow at night. I may try the LED 'headlight' mod this winter depending on how I make out... for the time being though I just wanna get this thing to the point where I can actually *gasp* RIDE it!
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... Lighting package sorted!
Help! Part #1 in the picture, which I had labelled as 'thingee under battery box' appears to be the regulator... I haven't a clue what it does and as long as it works I'm not sure I care, BUT I have to mount it somewhere as I have deleted the battery box to which it was attached previously...
However I notice that it is on little rubber grommets... is this to shock proof it and if the body of the unit touches something no big deal? or does it have to be insulated from ground, in which case I'll have to be much more careful about how I mount it...
Thanks for any input!
Help! Part #1 in the picture, which I had labelled as 'thingee under battery box' appears to be the regulator... I haven't a clue what it does and as long as it works I'm not sure I care, BUT I have to mount it somewhere as I have deleted the battery box to which it was attached previously...
However I notice that it is on little rubber grommets... is this to shock proof it and if the body of the unit touches something no big deal? or does it have to be insulated from ground, in which case I'll have to be much more careful about how I mount it...
Thanks for any input!
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
Re: CB350 Sly... Lighting package sorted!
Think I read that it's the regulator that has to have the base with rubber under it so doesn't ground out but grounded with strap and rectifyer has to be well grounded on base. This apparently causes battery to not charge well if not set up correctly. That sound right to you guys?
Think I read that it's the regulator that has to have the base with rubber under it so doesn't ground out but grounded with strap and rectifyer has to be well grounded on base. This apparently causes battery to not charge well if not set up correctly. That sound right to you guys?
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB350 Sly... Help! how do I mount this thing?
Yep,#1 is the reg.
Case must be insulated from ground, I forget why.
The battery box has a 'stand off' so case won't ground out even when it moves around, put some plastic or rubber sheet under it just to make sure it can't ground case
Yep,#1 is the reg.
Case must be insulated from ground, I forget why.
The battery box has a 'stand off' so case won't ground out even when it moves around, put some plastic or rubber sheet under it just to make sure it can't ground case
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... wiring!
bolted the rectifier and regulator onto the bit of plate that forms the battery box
so ya, you can't mix incandescent and LED very well, and the one indicator lamp for both turn signals is no go either, so I built a 2 LED indicator that stuffs up into the hole in the tach
getting close!!!!
bolted the rectifier and regulator onto the bit of plate that forms the battery box
so ya, you can't mix incandescent and LED very well, and the one indicator lamp for both turn signals is no go either, so I built a 2 LED indicator that stuffs up into the hole in the tach
getting close!!!!
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: CB350 Sly... is it charging?
Just start it and put meter across battery (on DC volts ;D )
You'll have an initial battery voltage, voltage drop when ignition is tuned on then very slight rise or 'balance' when running.
You need to be over 2,000 rpm for any charging and 5,000rpm for checking (~14.5v)
I like to do amp tests as it's actually a better indication of charge
Just start it and put meter across battery (on DC volts ;D )
You'll have an initial battery voltage, voltage drop when ignition is tuned on then very slight rise or 'balance' when running.
You need to be over 2,000 rpm for any charging and 5,000rpm for checking (~14.5v)
I like to do amp tests as it's actually a better indication of charge
axeugene27
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: CB350 Sly... is it charging?
ha nice i know how you feel don't even know how to use all the little settings on my meter.overdraft said:
Re: CB350 Sly... is it charging?
Nice solution. You can also use a pair of diodes before a single lamp to get the same result.
overdraft said:so ya, you can't mix incandescent and LED very well, and the one indicator lamp for both turn signals is no go either, so I built a 2 LED indicator that stuffs up into the hole in the tach
Nice solution. You can also use a pair of diodes before a single lamp to get the same result.
overdraft
Coast to Coast
Re: CB350 Sly... holy sh!t, it runs!!!
IT'S ALIVE!!!
took about 20 kicks to get it to start... i think the fact that i forgot to hook up one of the spark plug leads may have contributed to this
so now it's a 1 kick start (maybe 2 if it's cold)
my 2 strokes i'd heat cycle twice or three times and then just run it like i stole it... anyone have break in tips of for a newly bored/pistoned 4 stroke?
Pamco Ignition: i was initially disappointed with my pamco ignition... there's a place where there's a very tight clearance between the circuit board and one of the pinch bolts and in fact i had to file the circuit board to make it work... but whatever, because once installed it WORKS!!! i'm sure i'm supposed to set the timing but at this point the random position i stuck it on with is working so why mess with success!
soooo.... it starts, idles and revs like a champion! yay me! it remains to be seen if it works under load, but i have to get the seat finished in order to test that... maybe tomorrow?
IT'S ALIVE!!!
took about 20 kicks to get it to start... i think the fact that i forgot to hook up one of the spark plug leads may have contributed to this
so now it's a 1 kick start (maybe 2 if it's cold)
my 2 strokes i'd heat cycle twice or three times and then just run it like i stole it... anyone have break in tips of for a newly bored/pistoned 4 stroke?
Pamco Ignition: i was initially disappointed with my pamco ignition... there's a place where there's a very tight clearance between the circuit board and one of the pinch bolts and in fact i had to file the circuit board to make it work... but whatever, because once installed it WORKS!!! i'm sure i'm supposed to set the timing but at this point the random position i stuck it on with is working so why mess with success!
soooo.... it starts, idles and revs like a champion! yay me! it remains to be seen if it works under load, but i have to get the seat finished in order to test that... maybe tomorrow?
