CB350 Timing Issue - Can't Adjust to Spec

K

KYL3

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  • I am following the clymer manual and some threads on here trying to set my timing.

    From my understanding, my left point should open, turning the light bulb on, when the LF aligns with the Index mark, and vice versa with the right point and F aligning with the index mark if its properly timed.

    My problem is my points seem to be opening, almost a full quarter rotation of my rotor too early on both the left and right. The manual shows how to move the points base plate to adjust the timing. I moved the plate both directions, seeing the changes in the timing, but regardless of which way I move it, it doesn't bring the rotor marks LF, or F anywhere close to the index mark when its turning the light on. Its almost like i need to completely flip the points base plate, but it cannot be adjusted any more, the valve adjustments keep the base plate from moving any more.

    Am I missing something simple? Or is it possible it was properly timed without using the index marks? The bike was running decent previously. I just installed new points, condenser, battery, adjusted the valves and the timing was my last step.
 
Thanks for the link !

I never removed that part personally, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow, and report what I find out
 
Your point gap should be measured first. When measuring ignore the the timing marks for now. Rotate the engine until the ignition cam opens up the left point the furthest. Measure the gap, then rotate the engine and do the same with other side. If you look at the ignition cam you will notice that it has a bump that sticks out. When this bump hits the points it will open it up.

Once your point are set then you can set timing. T = Top Dead Center and F is the ignition timing mark. F is where you want to match up the lines. Once you got the first timing mark set, speed up the engine and make sure your hitting the advanced ignition timing mark too. Generally in most bikes you want to check your time for the left cylinder first, then right.

Always measure points first, then timing. Don't do them backwards. A timing light if you don't have one is going to make things easy. HarborFreight sells a decent one for $30
 
Thanks for the suggestion

I do have a timing light, but its showing the same thing as my test light I made.

I checked my points gap 3x times now, after installing the new points. Its at manual recommended 12. I even tried opening them to 16, still no help with the timing adjusting though.

I know people recommend setting your timing when your bikes running and in higher rpms, to make sure its firing right under power. But right now I'm trying to set my timing with my bike off, would that be the cause of the problem? Almost half my oil, if not most of it all drained out through the alternator cover, so how do you adjust it whens the bikes running? It seems like it would just spew out onto the exhaust while your setting it?

I'll check the advancer and points tomorrow. I'm open for any more tips or suggestions to try !

Thanks guys, its finally getting nice here in MI, I cannot wait to ride!
 
Because honda put the timing marks down near the alternator maybe its not such a good idea to adjust timing while the bike is running. Good call on avoiding that so far. The advancer is probably the next thing i would check like mentioned earlier. When I first got my bike it was rusted shut and the springs weren't rotating off the internal cam. This is what the advancer looks like. And below you will also see what can happen to an advancer over time.

469118322_00c2363d94.jpg
TimingAdvancer1.jpg
 
It sounds as though the advancer is stuck in the fully advanced position. Pop the points plate off and check it.
 
I rechecked the points, double checked the new condenser, making sure it was plugged in properly.

I took off the advancer and inspected it. Nothing rusted, both springs working good, pretty clean and well oiled overall. I cleaned it up a bit, and put it back on. Still no effect on the timing.


I attached some pictures of my points, the advancer





Any other ideas?
 
Looks good man. I don't know.... scratching my head. Still getting spark? Compression? Fuel flow and Carbs working good? Can you post a video at all? that might help.
 
In SrgtBear's post, the first picture, towards right plate mounting screw (around 4:00 o'clock position) there is a cutaway on advancer back plate
The points cam will have a small 'dot' punched into the top surface.
They should 'line up' when cam is rotated to 'closed' position
You'll have to remove the mounting bolt to find it.
I don't see cut-away in your pic, the positions vary.
It may be in the spring slot , or, some have 1.5mm hole drilled through
This is not mentioned in any service manual or bulletin
 
I'm having the exact same issue with my cl350 as Kyl3, except that I think my spark is firing late instead of early. Wondering if you got this fixed yet...I'm going to check out my spark advancer to see if I can find what PJ was talking about tomorrow when I get a chance.


Please let us know if you figure it out, I'll do the same!
 
Hey Tim,

I tried everything everyone posted on here, still no luck. I figured what the heck, button everything back up, leave the points baseplate adjusted to where it was before, and see how it runs.

It started fine and idled great. It revved and climbed rpms fine in neutral. No backfiring, smoking or weird noises. The plugs looked great after a couple times up and down the street. I decided to take it on the road for a bit. I went about 12 miles, zero problems, ran amazing !

Now today, I started it, and it idled great. But after warming it up, and putting it in gear. It doesn't want to rev past 3500-4500 without problems, and seems to be gaining/losing power at the same time. Feels like someones killing the power every few seconds. Very slugglish and jerkish. I am soaking my carbs for a few days, and I'll post up on that goes, or if I find anything new.

So I really dont know if this issue right now is from the timing or something else. But for the first 12 miles it ran amazing after hooking everything back up, even though my timing light showed it off.
 
Another update.

I filed down my points base plate, enough that I could rotate it further than the stock specs, and I almost have my timing perfect, but because of the rotation angle, my points are really off. I am ordering a new base plate, and advancer, and will update my findings. I also recommend replacing the oil seal behind the advancer while its out, so you wont have to redo everything when it leaks.
 
Hey sorry for the late reply, been super busy with work, haven't been able to even look at my bike lately. I hate to say it but I am considering just taking my bike into a shop to get fixed...although I really feel defeated.

Glad you at least got it running for a bit, those 12 miles had to feel great.
 
This is an old post, but I'm having the same exact issue. Wondering if anyone ever found a solution?
The last post was about ordering a new plate...guess that's what I'm gonna do next.
 
It's usually the advancer not assembled right.
There are different methods of marking, pic shows a cut away at about 3 o'clock position, dot on end of points cam has to line up in the same general direction


The 'dot' on points cam is just about visible in 5 o'clock position, on this one it lines up pretty good compared to cut away


PJ
 
Well...I THINK I see what you're talking about, but I'm not quite sure.
Maybe once I'm actually in there looking at it on my bike I can check it out.

Can all this issue be completely avoided by installing one of those new electronic ignitions, or will whatever is off about my system still be off with that as well?
 
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