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i do not... I cut the long straight sections off for my extensions on my high side pipes. Mac makes some decent exhausts I guess but those things were total POS... HATED them.
I put the same exhaust on my other 360. Not all happy with it either, but mostly in the can. The chrome wants to blue too, which is a sign of poor quality chrome. I do like the the headers to the the second bend, tho. Where it meets the clutch cover.
I put the same exhaust on my other 360. Not all happy with it either, but mostly in the can. The chrome wants to blue too, which is a sign of poor quality chrome. I do like the the headers to the the second bend, tho. Where it meets the clutch cover.
All single wall pipes will blue at the header.... My biggest complaint was the collector leaked like a pig and was never a solid fit... the flanges were a bit cheapish too.
Fucking Gremlins.... I was about to pull the rocker box off to see why this thing wasn't willing to run.... I tore my friggin wiring harness apart and stripped it down to just ignition... Nothing a couple of hits one run for about 20 seconds and a sore kicker leg... Fuckingn thing... I'm gonna improvise something to keep the cables from rubbing the magnet rotor.
I taped up the worn spot on that cable... only the red wire was worn into on that sensor and hooked the electronic igniton back up. But no dice. I've got power to the Pamco E-Advance unit and to the coils... but no spark... even if I were out of time, I'd still be getting spark... but nope no spark.
I'll get a conversation started with Pete about it I guess. Nothing is obviously burnt out in the E-advance unit. not sure where to start trouble shooting that thing.
The red wire is probably for power. Depending on the electronics setup used, a short circuit from that wire to ground may have cooked something. You'll need to check with Pete.
I still have my points plate, advance and condensers... I can always go back to that and keep trucking along I guess and verify my top end rebuild was right. while sorting out the Electronic ignition.
Just switched back to my points and set static timing and point gap, I've got spark now... and was able to get the bike to start... not wanting to run well though... it'll idle for 10 sec or so and die. If I touch the throttle it'll die... and doesn't start "easy".
I've gone through the carbs and every passage and jet is clean... bike has ran well off these carbs with the current jetting... this bike is and always has been such a pain in the ass. after dinner I'll get out and verify my tappet clearances. I do have a pair of rebuilt stock 360 carbs downstairs that I can try also... though I don't think I have a proper throttle cable. But I can manipulate that by hand. (Picked those up off ebay last year and rebuilt them over the winter. they are ready to rock.)
I'll put the lever chokes back on the Mikunis first just to make certain I don't have the cable enrichers off, they can be fiddly before a carb swap.
So, lets forget about the Round Slides for a little bit.
I slapped the rebuilt 360 carbs on the bike... it fired right up.... on the left cylinder. I've got spark on the right cylinder though, so must be a lack of fuel. So with it running on the one cylinder, I went and double checked my points and set the timing with a timing light. That's at least got timing and spark ironed out.
I'll slip the carbs back off tomorrow and make sure that right carb is clean and clear.. After I take a long ride on the Harley. Need to get my gauges back from a friend so I can check sync too.
make certain the pilot circuit is clear. The 3 small holes. they feed through the same circuit as the single larger air/fuel hole. I use a small bent safety pin to poke them. also if you pull the A/F mix needle and spray carb cleaner in needle hole...it should squirt out through the 3 holes + a/f mix feed hole. If you can plug the a/f hole...even better. It will also backwash through the pilot jet located under the screw. so make sure that 35 jet is clear afterwords.
Besides, sync, the A/F mix needle setting on the non-firing side may be out of adjustment enough not to let her idle...maybe??
After sync and idle set...none, one or more of the pilot holes may or may not be visible w butterfly closed.
these pics are of a junk parts carb I just had laying around. Not actually tuned to run.
Before sync, ensure the butterflies are centered on shafts to fit bore evenly and operate smoothly without dragging or hanging up. Shine a light through from filter side to see a sliver of light all the way around as best you can.
double check air correctors are located in proper circuits. (if they are the removable type)
After you get her running on both cylinders, A/F adj or idle tweaks MUST be made w engine at operating temp.
For any and all carb tuning, park her on the center stand w a 2x4 under the front tire.
It doesn't really matter this early. But just so I know and it dont slip my mind to ask later...do you got JBM diaphragms or stock Honda? My bike is un-ridable w JBMs.
Thanks for the link on the Viton gaskets.. I am indeed suffering from o-ring woes... I ordered some 110 mains too and the rest of the stuff to switch from clip on bars to a drag bar... 4into1 has decent prices on stuff... never shopped them before.
Before sync, ensure the butterflies are centered on shafts to fit bore evenly and operate smoothly without dragging or hanging up. Shine a light through from filter side to see a sliver of light all the way around as best you can.
It doesn't really matter this early. But just so I know and it dont slip my mind to ask later...do you got JBM diaphragms or stock Honda? My bike is un-ridable w JBMs.
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