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My 360 disk brake was dragging terribly with new semi sintered ebc pads, and was going to sand them down until I read a thread elsewhere that said its caused/made worse by the paint on the pads.
Dutifully removed all the orange paint from the new ebc pad, the moving one that goes 'inside' the caliper, and added a thin coat of copaslip, and the brakes are transformed!
The slightest one finger pressure on the lever causes braking, and there is no dragging!
I've been going through bs on my CB750 for almost a year now. I'll have replaced every goddamn part on the bike, and the parts that were good then became no good after some riding. There are bikes I did nothing but spray carb cleaner through everything , changed the oil and vroom. Days and days. Then some that get torn down multiple times. No rhyme or reason.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Whatever makes you think it ever ends?
You are now officially a CB360 junkie
You may sell it but will still be searching for another one to get your 'fix' of complaing about it.
They are probably the most adictive bikes I've ever seen (abd working at main dealers I saw a lot)
I've had a lot of bikes over the years, liked all of them but majority of them got sold without a second thought
Maybe, youve seen it, But this may help give you a fresh "bug" heres the vid I made following Greg from Pittsburg on his Suzuki to lunch w Doug (pittsburg), Logan (kentucky) and Jared (alabama).
PS Greg is much better in the curves due to my limited experience coupled w anxiety disorder.
Cool vid Eric... I hope that I feel confident enough to take a "REAL" ride on the 360 one day.
I have polished up that sticky needle valve and feel pretty good about that guy again and re-bench sync'd the carbs.
My right coil is puny again... it produces little to no spark so I have to sort that out. I must be killing that coil somehow... I have one more coil I can try out. But I have also ordered another from DCC along with a new Key Switch. I had never thought much about that before, but there have been many occasion that I've turned off the key switch to turn off the bike and the thing stay running and have to further use the handlebar kill switch to kill it... I may have continuity issues in the stock switch. So New switch... new coil to go along with the re-wire.
If this sorts out this bike... we'll definitely have to get our 360s together finally since we set out like 3 years ago to do it.
I've said it before and I'll say it again... Illinois is the worst state for motorcycling... Roads are flat and straight as fuck and you can't go a car length without hitting a repair or pothole.
I've said it before and I'll say it again... Illinois is the worst state for motorcycling... Roads are flat and straight as fuck and you can't go a car length without hitting a repair or pothole.
New Key switch and coils have arrived... I'm waiting on some wiring connectors to arrive to start the rewiring job... this time around it'll be a lot cleaner than it was... by using the right kind of bullet connectors I can really reduce the number of wire runs and still keep my full compliment of bar controls... might be this weekend's project if those connectors arrive.
There should be no reason after this for me to experience ignition system issues... and there's zero things left in the carbs for me to review. I polished out my needle valve seats with a Q-tip and some Autosol and verified every passage to be clear... and had a second set of eyes check out my float levels and float valves... should be no woes there.
I'm running one of Matt's Rec/Reg combos... the 5 wire yellow/pink/green/black/red one...
I have it currently wired as follows
Yellow+White from stator connected to Yellow
Pink from stator connected to Pink
Battery & Key Switch Red to Red (Black from Key switch connects to the main fuse and fuse block)
Ground to Green
Nothing to Black
Should I be connecting my black to the black wire on the Key switch also so that the REC/REG can sense when the Key is engaged? His site just says "Black - Voltage sensing. +12V when ignition switch on"
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