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Looking good Pierce! If you ever do need any welding done a guy named Travis in Opelika does good work. He owns Advanced Fabrication Solutions. He welded up a bed rack for my Tacoma. I plan on using him for my seat hoop.
Looking good Pierce! If you ever do need any welding done a guy named Travis in Opelika does good work. He owns Advanced Fabrication Solutions. He welded up a bed rack for my Tacoma. I plan on using him for my seat hoop.
Right now I'm working on my tank. The petcock on the 160 tank does not offer enough clearance and hits the valve cover. To rectify this problem I bought a petcock off of a cb400f and will find a way to finagle it on there. I found a threaded doohickey at Home Depot that threads to the petcock and should do the trick with a judicious dollop of JB weld to weld the bung to the tank.
I'll call your man Travis first and see how much it would cost to weld the bung on properly.
Why are there not more write-ups about header installation? It's simple, but kind of a bitch for a first-timer. I feel like I'm applying too much force past this point...
I'm following this fiche, so I have everything in there right... This configuration is the only way the crush gasket would get crushed, but I feel like I'm having to apply far too much torque. I don't want to break a bolt or strip anything
I had to apply quite a bit of pressure to crush those coppers and get it to seal nice. I thought I was going to wreck something as well. I still have one leaking a bit. I swear it seals better without them in there.
Why are there not more write-ups about header installation? It's simple, but kind of a bitch for a first-timer. I feel like I'm applying too much force past this point...
Doesn't look like the studs are screwed all the way into the head, and you may be bottoming out the collar on the thicker portion of the stud between threaded ends. give me a minute to walk out and double check if thats possible. there WILL be some gap between collar and head when tight. But you got a lot. BRB.
I couldnt find my spare collars to try it myself, but, on both my 360 heads the studs are screwed deep enough into the head. The thicker center unthreaded portion is tight up against the head (no threads showing) and make sure the flanges of the split deals #2 in the fische fit nicely inside the recess on the inside of the collar. They are easy to slip out when assembling.
Are these stock headers? on some aftermarkets the fat end of the pipe measures longer than stock, and this will make for a wider gap. Similar to how yours is looking.
Thank you much. It was definitely a combination of the collars not seating properly and the fact that I had already removed a crush gasket from each one and there were still TWO MORE on each side. They were just so pressed in there and blackened it didn't look like anything.
Had to chisel in behind it with an offset flathead.
Thanks for the help. I'm getting so close to completion.
All I really have left is:
1. tank cleaning/mounting/new petcock
2. Gauge mounting
3. wiring
Here's the completed battery tray prior to paint. Didn't realize the sheet metal I bought flash rusted so easy
Fits nicely under the seat. Next thing is a place for mounting the electronics, which is going to both hide the battery and be aesthetically pleasing I hope. I have a large slab of 3/8 inch aluminum which I have big plans for.
This aluminum will also be used to fab up a mount for my stock gauge cluster.
Edit: Oh and to answer your question, trek, I do believe they are the stock headers. One thing I noticed is that the right cylinder was running hotter than the other when it ran... The pipe on that side is very blued. I thought back to when I originally took the carbs off and how there was a non-countersunk bolt on the right side of the mounting plate with a bunch of waxy gunk around it like they're tried to seal the air leak they're caused by not using the right kind of bolt.
Something about like this on each side. 3/8 inch polished aluminum with some speedy speed holes made even more speedy by a forward lean reflecting the line of the forward frame rail. Opinions?
I'd be interested to see how it all works with the seat. I went with my battery in the hump and left that area open, which I like the look of. But your setup is nice and clean, and well organized.
Your one exhaust hotter than the other, was this after syncing carbs?
I'd be interested to see how it all works with the seat. I went with my battery in the hump and left that area open, which I like the look of. But your setup is nice and clean, and well organized.
Your one exhaust hotter than the other, was this after syncing carbs?
Thanks, I can't stand it when people just leave ugly electronics visible... I would have just kept the side covers and all of it if my frame hadn't already been detabbed. Haha actually they just cut the tabs off, I had to do the hard part and smooth everything out...
The bike hasn't run since it's been in my possession, I'm just hypothesizing about PO mishaps
Personally I don't like putting battery under hump so never do it. The British bikes cafes are often based on either had central oil tanks or tank on one side of frame , the 'open' area was either due to a magneto directly behind cylinder or simply because the carb didn't have any filtration (or both)
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