CB360 Cafe Project.......
- Thread starter pandknz
- Start date
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
http://www.sudco.com/Carburetor01.html
There are different bodies but the internals stay the same or are interchangeable with later VM
There should be nubers stamped on them somewhere (about 1.5mm high)
There are different bodies but the internals stay the same or are interchangeable with later VM
There should be nubers stamped on them somewhere (about 1.5mm high)
pandknz
Been Around the Block
Got some gasket sets on their way for the carbs ;D
Some shinny bits arrived today, and some not so shinny bits but they will be when I'm finished with them ;D
My clip ons
My rear sets....from france....???....don't know why but they look cool and were at a good price
New switches, only thing missing is the starter and they both have lever bosses so must be for a CB350 but or other early drum model....some mods and they will be good
new regulator/rectifier, hoping this will suit the Ballistic battery below
so the frame is stripped and so far there is no rust or damage I will give it a good clean down and now that I have a few bits I will start to mock it up and weld the rear hoop in and sort out the electrical tray and a splash gaurd to protect the carbs, Qld storms can turn up from nowhere in summer so it will get some wet riding even if I dont plan on it so best to build the bike to suit.
more updates soon, after I have done a bit of work
Cheers for looking 8)
Some shinny bits arrived today, and some not so shinny bits but they will be when I'm finished with them ;D
My clip ons
My rear sets....from france....???....don't know why but they look cool and were at a good price
New switches, only thing missing is the starter and they both have lever bosses so must be for a CB350 but or other early drum model....some mods and they will be good
new regulator/rectifier, hoping this will suit the Ballistic battery below
so the frame is stripped and so far there is no rust or damage
I will give it a good clean down and now that I have a few bits I will start to mock it up and weld the rear hoop in and sort out the electrical tray and a splash gaurd to protect the carbs, Qld storms can turn up from nowhere in summer so it will get some wet riding even if I dont plan on it so best to build the bike to suit.more updates soon, after I have done a bit of work
Cheers for looking 8)
Nice! I would love to do rearsets. But they just look like a giant pain in the butt, Im not mentally prepared to tackle yet. LOL. my engine build has gotten me in a very fragile state. I could crack at any moment and push the bike out and park it on the Railroad tracks grab a beer, lawn chair and video cam!!!
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
trek97 said:
Uuuuh, it's all about you (when it should be all about me ;D )
Rearsets are actually far more comfortable than stock footrests when you use clip on's, not so much with higher bars, may need moving forward slightly.
If you get pretty relaxed during a ride, think about where you feet actually are, on my XS650 footrests NEED to be about 4" further back and 2" higher, and that's using pretty low MX bars
When you find 'natural' foot position you'll know, then just figure out how to make it work.
On 360 footrests really need to be around inch and a half further forward for me, although using passenger peg mounts isn't too bad.
The gearchange side is rel eay, the brake is where you get issues (at least if you want it to work properly)
pandknz
Been Around the Block
I'm 6'4" so the passenger peg position is perfect, my 13 yr old son finds that he is laying down on the tank and he is @ 5'11", I think he will suit the bike better than me, which will be nice as it will be his when its completed.
biggest issue I have is where to put my battery, I will be using a Ballistic battery as pictured above but I'm still undecided on location, I do like the idea of mounting it where the toolbox was
PJ, you mentioned this on a post, can you post a pic or send me a plan?
biggest issue I have is where to put my battery, I will be using a Ballistic battery as pictured above but I'm still undecided on location, I do like the idea of mounting it where the toolbox was
PJ, you mentioned this on a post, can you post a pic or send me a plan?
pandknz
Been Around the Block
Thanks PJ, just as I thought
I did a bit of work with some templates over the past couple of days
electrical tray under seat, seat and hump, and splash gaurd will all be made from sheet metal and painted. Battery will go where toolbox is now.
cardboard templates
next will be to take the templates apart and cut and fold the sheet metal then weld/hammer/weld/hammer...........
I did a bit of work with some templates over the past couple of days
electrical tray under seat, seat and hump, and splash gaurd will all be made from sheet metal and painted. Battery will go where toolbox is now.
cardboard templates
next will be to take the templates apart and cut and fold the sheet metal then weld/hammer/weld/hammer...........
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
3DogNate said:
Sounds like something I should learn to do. Do you have a build thread on how you upgraded all your wiring?
Good progress on the build. I think I'll look into putting my battery there as well.
legendary_rider
Jump in with both feet.
I look forward to it. I hate wiring but would like to put all new stuff in and I hear that it's a bit of a process upgrading to LEDS.
pandknz
Been Around the Block
Hi All
can anyone point out to me why I can not do as I have done in the pics
Maybe this has been done before or not but I can't see why it can't be done like this yet all the CB350 and 360 bikes I have seen with rear sets use a link down to the original pedal pivot.
another option would be to use a cable like the one below
Cheers
can anyone point out to me why I can not do as I have done in the pics
Maybe this has been done before or not but I can't see why it can't be done like this yet all the CB350 and 360 bikes I have seen with rear sets use a link down to the original pedal pivot.
another option would be to use a cable like the one below
Cheers
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
The problem with using rod the way you have it set up is the difference in pivot points. As swing arm moves the brake will get tighter/looser, sometimes enough to operate brake just through suspension travel/
I know a LOT of people do it but personally I've never found it to be very good or safe (if your just dragging rear brake slightly and suspension compresses rear wheel can lock up)
BTW
Whats that cable off?
Got a link?
Any idea how long it is?
I know a LOT of people do it but personally I've never found it to be very good or safe (if your just dragging rear brake slightly and suspension compresses rear wheel can lock up)
BTW
Whats that cable off?
Got a link?
Any idea how long it is?
