cb450 rearsets done on the cheap!

Herm21

Been Around the Block
A few of you have asked about my rearsets, and since I didn’t mention them in my build thread , I thought I’d put some info here for reference. First, major props to ChrisF for the idea, thnx much dude!


As you can see here, I mounted them to the existing passenger and exhaust braces. Just had to drill some new holes to get them in the right place for my height and riding position.
IMG_6673.jpg




The footpegs are BMX pegs from a local shop - $10.00. They’re 3” long x 1’’dia.

I had the knurled toe pieces and the spacers made by the good folks at rodendsupply.com, I think he charged me $10.00 for all of it. The toe pieces are 1.75” long x 5/8” dia. The spacers are about an 1” long and taper from 1 ¼” to ¾”.
101_6468.jpg



The levers I made from stock ¼” T6061 aluminum. I used a jigsaw to cut the shape, drilled a bunch of holes, and polished ‘em up. Aluminum was like $20.00 for a 2’ x4” piece. (I had lots left over for other stuff.) They measure 6” from the longest points, and 3” from the linkage points to the turn.
101_6469.jpg



The bearings are 7/8”x ¼” dia, 3/8” ID for the bolts. These are skateboard bearings and were about $2.00ea, they’re very strong and are the key to all of this working properly!
101_6467.jpg



I wanted the bearings to fit real tight in the levers so I used a 7/8” step down bit, but only drilled out 13/16” and just used the 7/8” step to slightly tapper the hole. This made it easy to tap them in with a mallet, but only after using a small sanding spindle on the dremmel to remove a hair more material. For good measure I also doused them with a bit of Loctite before tapping them in, they’re in there for good now!

The washers, on both sides, are ¾” dia. They only rest against the inner bearing allowing the outer ring to spin freely with the levers.
101_6470.jpg


101_6471.jpg


And since these bearings have inner walls to hold the ceramic sealers in place, this allows for a good tightening of the pegs without any friction or horizontal play on the levers!.
kit1061-1.jpg




These rear sets were inexpensive, fun to make and really worked out great! No need to spend $200 on Raask! Thanks again for the idea Chris!

Herm
 
I'm impressed! looks great. I wish I would have spent the $170 I spent on tools, and made these instead. Where were you two weeks ago?
 
Damn I think those are the best home brews to date! Nice work Herm! so if I read right they cost about $42?
 
Hey man thanks for this post!

I just bought some rearsets but I'm thinking about making my own.

What did you use to drill the holes? Also what are the specs for the bolt that you used to attach the rearsets to the frame?
 
any chance you would replicate these? THe CB500T frame is pretty much identical, and I'd definitely be interested in a set of these. Let me know.
 
Sweet! I've been looking for a nice simple way to make some rearsets. This is about as simple as you can get. It is too bad the PO of my bike hacked the passenger peg brackets off of my frame. I'm sure I could get something welded on though. I'm going to start collecting the parts now.

Is there any problem with kickstart clearance since the pegs don't fold up?
 
jason teamshralp said:
Also how did you attach the screen behind the sprocket cover?

sorry for the late post dude :p

The screen is held in place with good 'ol JBweld, did the same with the rear drum:
IMG_6672.jpg
 
valvesprung said:
Damn I think those are the best home brews to date! Nice work Herm! so if I read right they cost about $42?

thnx man! probably more like $50-$60 or so when you include linkage bits, but still quite a bargain compared to what's out there. ..plus there's a bit of satisfaction knowing you made 'em yourself!


goodfornothing said:
Hey man thanks for this post!

I just bought some rearsets but I'm thinking about making my own.

What did you use to drill the holes? Also what are the specs for the bolt that you used to attach the rearsets to the frame?

Used a 7/8' step bit for all the holes, the step up on these bits makes a nice chamfer on the drilled holes. The bolt if I recall was about 3" long 3/8" thread std hex.
 
TJEvans said:
any chance you would replicate these? THe CB500T frame is pretty much identical, and I'd definitely be interested in a set of these. Let me know.

hmmmm...i'm actually going to be making another set for the new project that's currently under way, but didn't plan on it for a few more weeks yet. PM me with your timeframe TJ.


Flugtechnik said:
Sweet! I've been looking for a nice simple way to make some rearsets. This is about as simple as you can get. It is too bad the PO of my bike hacked the passenger peg brackets off of my frame. I'm sure I could get something welded on though. I'm going to start collecting the parts now.

Is there any problem with kickstart clearance since the pegs don't fold up?

I'm actually doing that on my new cb project. I hacked the braces off already and will be welding on some simple brackets to the frame, and am planning on making nicer aluminum back plates to hold the rearsets in place. mainly for looks but I want to position them a little further back on this build.

And no, no issues with the kickstart at all.
 
Hey Herm -

PM'ed you about possibly hopping on your rearset bandwagon : )

How tall are you? It looks like your rear sets are up and forward from the passenger pegs, but when I sit on my 450 I think my legs would be pretty cramped if I had my rearsets in that spot...
 
Ha! I should have told you Herm these questions would come flying. The cone spacer is genius. Did Rod End Suppy turn those for you?

Nice job with the bearing as well. When you take the control off, will you post some pics of both sides of the control?

Also, were you the guy whom I sent a scanned PDF of my actual controls? If you used that as a template, I'm shocked at how well these came out. The chamfer on the holes is the dogs balls!

--Thanks, Chris
 
Hey Herm:

Nevermind, I see how you did the bearings. Let us know how this hold up. For safety purposes, you might consider a washer on the inside of the control as well.

...and for you guys asking Herm to make you some controls, go make your own. You need minimum tools, little money and a lit of time. There is no excuse for not making these yourself. Seriously.

--Chris
 
chrisf said:
Hey Herm:

Nevermind, I see how you did the bearings. Let us know how this hold up. For safety purposes, you might consider a washer on the inside of the control as well.

...and for you guys asking Herm to make you some controls, go make your own. You need minimum tools, little money and a lit of time. There is no excuse for not making these yourself. Seriously.

--Chris

I know it might seem like we're just trying to leech off other people's hard work, but I don't see you out in front of the grocery store telling people "what are you doing with that broccoli?! You could have grown that yourself..."

I run two businesses, I DJ, I've got a vintage sailboat (that takes tons of upkeep) and I play in a very active band - in short, time is a really scarce commodity. I need to spend my time on the things that are already on my plate and keep food on the table - if that means I don't deserve to have rearsets on my bike then I'm not sure where that leaves me.

In the meantime, excuse me while I go eat some dinner, made by somebody else : )
 
CCRider said:
Herm,

Looks great!

Could you post a pic of the attachment to the brake linkage?

Thanks, CC

CC, that part of the break linkage that connects to the control is actually a wire rope end clamp I had laying around. I just threaded the rod and replaced the clamp’s innards with a nut to match the newly threaded rod and tightened it all down…that rod then attaches to a larger pivot rod which rotates freely (but snug) inside the stock steel tube originally used for the now non-existent center stand. That pivot rod then controls the brake rod and the brake light switch…little bit of welding on this to get it to work just right but I’ll definitely have to post some pictures (this weekend) because I know I just made it sound a lot more complicated than it really is.
 
andrew embassy said:
Hey Herm -

PM'ed you about possibly hopping on your rearset bandwagon : )

How tall are you? It looks like your rear sets are up and forward from the passenger pegs, but when I sit on my 450 I think my legs would be pretty cramped if I had my rearsets in that spot...

Dude I'd love to make them for you if it'll help you get riding, but finding time to do anything right now is a challenge. but as I mentioned earlier when I turn out the new set for the new bike i may just duplicate them a few times and will ping you then.

As for height, i'm 5'9. I read somewhere once that the optimal horizontal position for rearsets is to draw a straight line down from where your nads are when you're in the seat. If you look at today’s sports bikes you’ll see this is actually where rearsets are all placed. But as for the height, the best thing is to bend your knees while maintaining that vertical nad position with your feet until it feels right on the knees and calves, and that‘s where they go! ..at least that’s the way I did it and it turned out to be a very comfortable riding position.
 
Hey Chris, thanks man!! yeah Jim at Rod end turned out the spacers for me, he’s a great guy and does some good work, I’ve got him trying to make some top fork bolts now, really looking forward to those!

yeah I did get that PDF from you if memory serves. Used it as basis for the design! It’s truly very simplistic in function and form but yet very cool looking! I did end up taking about an inch or so off the controls tho, I have smaller feet I guess… yea and there is a ¾” washer on the inside as well. I initially didn’t think I’d need it with the cone spacers but it made the whole thing feel firmer.
 
Herm21 said:
Dude I'd love to make them for you if it'll help you get riding, but finding time to do anything right now is a challenge. but as I mentioned earlier when I turn out the new set for the new bike i may just duplicate them a few times and will ping you then.

As for height, i'm 5'9. I read somewhere once that the optimal horizontal position for rearsets is to draw a straight line down from where your nads are when you're in the seat. If you look at today’s sports bikes you’ll see this is actually where rearsets are all placed. But as for the height, the best thing is to bend your knees while maintaining that vertical nad position with your feet until it feels right on the knees and calves, and that‘s where they go! ..at least that’s the way I did it and it turned out to be a very comfortable riding position.

Man, I feel you on the time front. If you find time and you're motivated then awesome. That's awesome info about the nads line- I'll have to check that out :)
 
Fuckin' hats off to Chris and Herm! I found some old school knurled pegs for my build and dug up some unused sealed bearings (still wrapped in original plastic) from a deck I never got around to building, a long, long time ago. Hell, I even found the wheels, Christian Hosoi signatures! HA! Anyway, hell of a job on the levers and hub, Herm!
 
Back
Top Bottom