Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Ok so here are the pics I have, sorry one is so blurry but you can see all the dirt and gunk that was behind the sprocket cover. And the wire grommet that is broken that might be leaking oil. Then after that the spacer thing I found that I can't figure out where it goes. It is nicked and chipped so maybe that was the source of the metal shavings I found since everything looks good. Maybe it got dropped in there and bounced around.
Now that I know it isn't a part that belongs there I think I know what it goes to. The seat is a custom piece and the guy used four wing nuts with spacers to connect it to the bike. I think it was one of those that fell off and disappeared and he just made another one. Thanks. How about the sprocket cover having all of that gunk in it and the little pool of oil under the hole where the shift shaft comes out. I have only put about 45 miles on the bike all on road, could it accumulate that much dirt in that little time? And the little pool of oil is that normal or does it mean I have a seal out? Could the oil have come out of the wire plug and leaked down inside the sprocket cover and then leaked out, could I just use liquid gasket to seal it? And last question when I replace the gasket with the new one I have on order do I use a sealant or just put the gasket on as is, thanks.
Got it so do I use the RTV or Threebond when I replace the old gasket with a new one as well? To help seal not as the actual gasket I have one of those coming in the mail in a few days.
Got it so do I use the RTV or Threebond when I replace the old gasket with a new one as well? To help seal not as the actual gasket I have one of those coming in the mail in a few days.
cool so I just clean both the surfaces that the gasket goes on and put it on dry? I just want to make sure I do it right the first time and not have to repeat it.
Ok so I got the gasket and installed it and...still leaks in the same exact spot. I did not use the RTV or any sealant on the gasket for the little plug that the wires go through. Any ideas? Thanks.
Also when adjusting the clutch I turned it down at the cable bottom adjustor to get slack but it just kept on going down and pulling the threaded shaft up (the adjustor and the lock nut both move when I turn it down) and now I have about 2 inches of threaded bolt showing above the adjustor. I will take a picture today and post it but is that normal? If I would have kept on twisting the adjustor down I would have pulled the entire threaded shaft out. So what is a good place for it to be? Thanks.
If its a leak at the rubber seal on the wires. I would use acetone to clean and make certain all aluminum gasket surfaces were dry as a bone. I would use a BRAKE cleaner to clean the rubber seal up as best as absolutley possible. So the rubber is nice and DRY. put a small bead of Permatex Ultra Black around the rubber seal. Not so much as to squeeze out a glob inside the engine.
Kinda loosely assemble. (Not loose but not so tight enough to squeeze out ALL the fresh Permatex). Give it about 10 minutes then torque the cover to spec.
And yes the gasket and machine gasket surfaces should be bone dry.
Then let it sit for a day or two. To make sure the silicone is fully cured before running the engine.
You dont want to use carb cleaner for this kinda stuff, carb cleaner contains lubricants. Brake cleaner is the cleaner of choice. It dries dry.
Ok if both surfaces were not bone dry when I installed the gasket (I dried off the engine side but not the cover I just forgot) can I just take off the cover and dry it and the gasket and everything and reinstall with the same gasket or do I need to get another gasket? I have only started the bike and rode it for about 100 yards then parked it. Thanks.
Probably a 50/50 chance the gasket will be reusable. As long as you didnt over torque the bolts. And if it has a little oil on it that will probably help for it to come off smoothly.
I have a PDF of gaskets you can use as templates to make your own. give me a minute to search for it.
OK here is the link to pdf gaskets. I believe that gasket will print on a 8.5 x 11 paper. compare the printed ruler to your ruler to make sure your printer made it the correct size. Then use it as a template to trace onto an appropriate piece of cheap gasket material.
Thanks for the print out I will get some paper and try that. And the Mopar is from when I was in High School. A 1973 Plymouth Satellite Sebring. I will see if I can dig up a pic for you.
Have not found any pics of the car yet but I am still looking.
I am going to get gasket material in a day or two and make a new gasket, as of right now it still leaks in the exact same place, but it is only 3-4 drops I am not to worried. And I used information I found on this site to get my clutch working better then ever. My question about that is the clutch doesn't real engage until the lever is almost all the way out, is that an adjustment issue or are my plates almost done for?
Secondly I am trying to fab up a muffler to work on my bike. I might be able to get my hands on a CRF450x or CRF450R or XR650R muffler and I am thinking of doing a two into one kind of thing. I am just going to get a Y pipe the right diameters and joint the ends of my current exhaust to the single muffler, good idea or bad idea. I figure the muffler I might get is for off road and bigger higher performance bikes it might flow still pretty good and quiet the bike down. (The second picture is where I got the idea from)
Third, how much of a difference would putting the stock air boxes back on make if I left the exhaust open like it is?
Thanks
Lastly is a picture of the bottom cable adjustor for the clutch is that to far out? When it says to turn the bottom cable adjustor down to get slack the thing kept on turning down until it got to where it is now and I stopped turning because I was afraid I would go to far.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.