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It blocks off the main gallery oil feed to main bearings, Honda drill from both ends but the left side is under alternator cover so you cant really get to it
You can see the oil drilling in main bearing and the 'bump' in the casting
Plugs normally come out relatively easy, you did use a 6 point socket? (12 point will just cut the corners off)
Yeah I used a 6 pin socket, oh well. I will see if I can get this one out and use it as a test. Then will look to get a replacement as I'm not keen on having a chewed up plug on the bike
So the Acewell comes with 2 temp sensors, 1 for ambient air temp which will be located in the seat hump, and one for the motor. Originally designed for a radiator hose, I thought I would adapt it to measure off the oil.
Was looking at one of the oil gallery bolts off the recommendation of PJ so thought I would try and get it off and have a look what was behind. Stripped it as it was in there solid, so I measured up the sensor thread, grabbed the tap and set to threading the gallery bolt.
Worked out nicely:
Also stripped the bike back to the frame as I wanted to weld up the exhaust hanger and rearsets brackets properly. Not the prettiest welds in the world but they will certainly do:
The plug at the other end is pushed in, you should be able to pull it out then use a gun brush to clean everything (assuming you don't get arrested for asking for shotgun cleaning kit? )
I believe Oz banned firearms same as Britain?
It is alright over here for gun laws. If you "need" one you can get one. IE over 20 acres of land or in a shooting club. There are a heap of different licenses though. Pistol is different from rifle and there are no automatic weapons.
We have progress!!! Looked to wire in the Acewell gauge today, a couple of minor hiccups 1) I kept blowing fuses on the main feed 2) the high beam light is on all the time.
Turns out I had connected 2 blocks incorrectly in the headlight bucket (what a twat), causing me to go through 4 x 7.5A fuses. Quickly resolved after I eventually found the problem.
The main beam issue I will need to look into further, I suspect I've tapped into the wrong feed, I will report back once I confirm.
All done in the end and I've started to setup the gauge. Here it is in action (love the way the needle sweeps on startup):
http://youtu.be/n8BtjG8Unbc
I still need to confirm a few things to finish setting it up:
1. How many rotations the engine makes per coil fire (for the tacho)
2. What RPM I set the shift light
3. What warning temp I set for the motor
crank triggered so fires every revolution (is pick up on points wire or coil lead?)
With stock cam set shift light around 9,000rpm
Main gallery oil temp needs to be below 240f but above 200f, synthetic oil will go to higher temp use 5w/40 and change at 1500 miles (after break in)
So I've figured the high beam light issue, unaided the whole loom to check the wiring: all good.
Wired the bike back up and still getting the same problem. Decided to check the headlight wiring and it appeared to be incorrect. I fixed it but still have the same issue. Here is where I think the problem is.
The low/high beam share a common ground. When I have the headlight on low beam there is some current leakage up the high beam wire into the gauge. I unplugged the high beam wire and sure enough the gauge works perfectly.
So how should I fix it?
I love this gauge, especially the voltage reading:
Bought this 3a automotive diode. I will wire it into the headlight high beam wire to stop back current when the low beam is active.
I think 3a should be fine, the low beam is about 3a when live but I assume most of that current is going down the -ve, with just a small amount bleeding into the gauge to illuminate the main beam led.
Not sure how your wiring diode into circuit as the cross leakage is probably inside bulb?
You probably have milliamps leaking resistor may make indicator light slightly dimmer when on high but should block leakage from low beam
The high/low beam share a common earth. When low beam is on there is a little leakage back up the main beam feed into the gauge. I was going to wire diode in on main beam feed directly before the bulb.
Also a 3a diode, is that current based on what is can cope with stopping? I'm worried it will get when I run high beam current through it (although not trying to stop high beam current).
OK, I think I know what your doing, diode will be after the feed to gauge so nothing can come back
What bulb do you have fitted?
A nominal 60/55 is 5amps at nominal 12v
35/35w is just about dead on 3 amps, may be worthwhile mounting it either on outside of headlamp shell or on a finned heat sink (make a feature out of it)
3a rating should be max capacity, 5a may be a better bet?
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