crazypj said:I would use full synthetic 10w/40 (in fact, I do ;D )
Plenty of friction modifiers to provide smooth action
You did get the cartridge fully bled before assembly? (needs a 'special tool', tube to screw onto end of damper rod)
Full synthetic ATF will also be around 10wt
I'll have to check, but, I think stock damper settings are 1-1/2~2 turns on rebound and compression
crazypj said:Use 10wt, mine works fine.
I used a the blunt needle and syringe from an inkjet re-fill kit to get all the bubbles out
andycafe said:Wow ! my my hasn't she come along .
neevo said:PJ the damping is much better, as you said its not really noticeable until a sharp hit to the bars. Perfect as I like light steering.
Is my shock mount going to be strong enough, the shock mount part is quite tall to get the right angle which I assume would transfer a fair but of cantilever force. Hopefully 5mm plate and the welds are enough to keep it solid.
crazypj said:You'll have to fit the motor and the carbs before you add any braces.
You can probably buttress the front of both plates but clearance to fit carbs gets tight
Using a single angle plate won't work, the throttle pulley want's to be in the same place (if I remember right)
crazypj said:You'll have to re-fit motor and carbs and tape some card in position then try removing carbs.
teazer said:That's a long way out from the frame! I would have placed it so that the shock looks almost like an extension of the top frame tube. That way the forces are simple and in compression.
The current design includes a significant bending moment that is probably not a problem but it's not optimal.
neevo said:Oh, I didn't even think about if the carbs could be removed! Good pickup. I will double check that before adding some mild buttressing.