4. At this point check you mechanical advance unit for stiff or worn “bob weights” and spring tension, if the springs are too loose or too tight address this now by modifying the springs. If at all in doubt strip, clean and lightly lubricate the unit (dry lube is best e.g graphite powder) or replace it with a new one!
Also check that the seal at the back of the housing is intact and not leaking (25)
5. With the advance unit in hand:
The point’s cam on the mechanical advance unit is used to open the points as we are replacing the points with a hall sensor the points and cam are not needed. Replaced the points cam with the magnetic rotor supplied with the kit.
Rotate the cam a few degrees while holding the backer plate and it should slide off from the weights, look at how the twisting motion lets the cam off. Make sure the spindle of the advancer is clean and free of gack, clean the shaft and use a little light oil here is ok, but remove any excess. Now install the magnetic rotor by spreading the weights enough to get the rotor slots to line up. Now check that the rotor moves freely on the shaft, Install the advance unit on the camshaft. Use a small washer that fits inside the rotor underneath the existing flat washer to make up for the rotor being deeper than the point cam. Try tightening the advance unit and when tight, try to rotate the rotor as it would at full advance, it should move freely and the bolt should be tight holding the shaft of the advance unit tightly on the camshaft if not then you will have to add another washer. The magnetic rotor should now be on the mechanical advancer and is moving freely
6. Place the Dyna S plate where the original points plate fitted and align the point’s plate so that the gap between the two hall sensors is approximately in line with the top of the left hand point’s cover retaining screw.
On the right side, Mark the base plate where the washer for the valve adjustment makes contact. Using the points base plate mark the Dyna base plate so that the valve adjustment washer will not be fouled.
OK, if you are this far in, time to get brave with that little $150 trinket... Go slow and always remove a little material and work up to having it all fit!
Grind/file/dremmel away the backer plate to clear the valve adjuster nut and washer, you can installed a smaller O.D. washer here under the nut if you don’t wish remove as much material.
Do not be concerned with the orientation in this photo as when I did mine I was following Augustiron instructions, which appear to have a different orientation to mine.
On the left side, I ground away a little of the aluminum housing so the washer of the left base plate mounting screw could seat properly. I removed the lower hall sensor so that I could work accurately (two small screws). Allow a little clearance to allow it to rotate a few degrees for timing.
The pickup must be oriented as shown in the photos, some modifications must be made to get it to fit this way. I used SS Allen keyed bolts and washers to hold down the base plate which required the left hand bolt to be ground down so as not to foul the hall sensor.
If you wish to use the original screws than you will need to remove material from the sensor.
