Endurance Guzzi
- Thread starter geodoc
- Start date
geodoc
New Member
Swagger said:
Heh Swag,
The color was a challenge to get done the way I wanted. The color and mat finish is from a 2002 Guzzi V11 "Tenni". The mat green was a nod to the Guzzi race bikes of the 50's which were that color. The story goes that they didn't want to leave the aluminum fairings bare so they shot them with aircraft zinc chromate primer which is a mat olive green. It ended up becoming a team signature color.
http://www.motoguzziclubqld.org/bike_pics/sport/V11%20Tenni.JPG
To get the color match I bought a small fairing panel and found a painter here locally that was able to match it.
GD
Hi,
I like your bike. Really nice work you have done there. I see you have safety wired a few things. Are you planning to run it on a track, or is that just for looks? It is interesting how you eliminated the lower rails. Did you have to get a timing cover off of another bike to mount it high on the front like you did? My Centauro is mounted the same way, using a cradle attaching high in a similar location. What model bike did you start with? I am wrapping up a project on an 84 SP 1000. So far yours and mine are the only Guzzi's I have seen on here.
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7554.0
I like your bike. Really nice work you have done there. I see you have safety wired a few things. Are you planning to run it on a track, or is that just for looks? It is interesting how you eliminated the lower rails. Did you have to get a timing cover off of another bike to mount it high on the front like you did? My Centauro is mounted the same way, using a cradle attaching high in a similar location. What model bike did you start with? I am wrapping up a project on an 84 SP 1000. So far yours and mine are the only Guzzi's I have seen on here.
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7554.0
Fantastic looking bike, I've got some questions too.
I don't understand terminal blocks, is their purpose just a way to hold all the wiring down in one place? Why cut, strip, solder, and shrink, all that wire instead of just running it intact? It looks cool, but it also looks very exposed and takes up a lot of room.
Am I correct in guessing that 2 of your relays are for the headlight? What are the other 2 running?
Is that all 14ga wire? I used all 14ga (and some 12ga) wire to wire my truck and thought that was overkill. Looking at my Ducati there's a lot of tiny 18ga or so wire and I was thinking about using a lot of that for my next Honda 360. In your opinion would that be a mistake?
The fuses you used are also foreign to me. What are those?
What kind of connectors are you using?
Is that a fluid line running through your' shock box? That raises red flags in my uninformed mind, what's the logic behind that?
Thanks,
Kit
I don't understand terminal blocks, is their purpose just a way to hold all the wiring down in one place? Why cut, strip, solder, and shrink, all that wire instead of just running it intact? It looks cool, but it also looks very exposed and takes up a lot of room.
Am I correct in guessing that 2 of your relays are for the headlight? What are the other 2 running?
Is that all 14ga wire? I used all 14ga (and some 12ga) wire to wire my truck and thought that was overkill. Looking at my Ducati there's a lot of tiny 18ga or so wire and I was thinking about using a lot of that for my next Honda 360. In your opinion would that be a mistake?
The fuses you used are also foreign to me. What are those?
What kind of connectors are you using?
Is that a fluid line running through your' shock box? That raises red flags in my uninformed mind, what's the logic behind that?
Thanks,
Kit
That is one fancy machine!!! First time I checked it out, I didn't notice the riveted fairing bracket. Nice work. I've resorted to the same thing when my welding wasn't up to snuff.
Got all your 337's signed off? Oh, and where's your R2 unit go? With all that gear under the fairing, your probably gonna need some systems management help. ;D
Is your flying machine a Turbo Beaver?
Nate in PDX
Got all your 337's signed off? Oh, and where's your R2 unit go? With all that gear under the fairing, your probably gonna need some systems management help. ;D
Is your flying machine a Turbo Beaver?
Nate in PDX
FWIW I used 16GA marine wire when I did my wiring on the XS650. I like the weight of it, and the marine wire is very flexible and corrosion resistant. The strands are individually tinned.
I used 10GA for the main battery leads, but I'm only running a 5ah battery and no electric start.
The wiring on the Guzzi looks pretty extensive. I don't think it would be feasible to make one giant harness without a bunch of connections between the front 1/2 of the bike and the back 1/2. I have tons of connections in mine, they're just all done with bullet connections in the headlight bucket and under the seat. I could have (and maybe in hindsight should have) brought all those connections into a single location the joins the front and back of the bike.
I used 10GA for the main battery leads, but I'm only running a 5ah battery and no electric start.
The wiring on the Guzzi looks pretty extensive. I don't think it would be feasible to make one giant harness without a bunch of connections between the front 1/2 of the bike and the back 1/2. I have tons of connections in mine, they're just all done with bullet connections in the headlight bucket and under the seat. I could have (and maybe in hindsight should have) brought all those connections into a single location the joins the front and back of the bike.
geodoc
New Member
Hi Joe,
The project was a bit of mix & match. Sort of a Frankin-Guzzi. The frame is from an 850T, steering to 25.5 deg / 100mm trail, engine 1000SP, forks & triple clamps from a '95 Sport 1100, wheels and final drive from a T3, gearbox 850T, heads are 1000SP moded to mid-valve LM1. spec. Barrels are 850T bored to 86.5mm, nikasiled w/ JE pistons to 10.9:1 CR, Sport 1100 timing cover, V11 Sport flywheel / clutch. The template for the lower frame rail removal came from Manel Segarra in Spain ( www.guzzimotobox.com - #99 on the Guzzi race bikes link a few posts ago ).
And yes, we need more Guzzis here.
G
The project was a bit of mix & match. Sort of a Frankin-Guzzi. The frame is from an 850T, steering to 25.5 deg / 100mm trail, engine 1000SP, forks & triple clamps from a '95 Sport 1100, wheels and final drive from a T3, gearbox 850T, heads are 1000SP moded to mid-valve LM1. spec. Barrels are 850T bored to 86.5mm, nikasiled w/ JE pistons to 10.9:1 CR, Sport 1100 timing cover, V11 Sport flywheel / clutch. The template for the lower frame rail removal came from Manel Segarra in Spain ( www.guzzimotobox.com - #99 on the Guzzi race bikes link a few posts ago ).
And yes, we need more Guzzis here.
G
Joe said:
geodoc
New Member
Hi Mysta,
The termanal strips under the tank ended up being there for a coupl reasons. I drew up & built the wiring harness a system at a time so it was an easy way to do the rear section first & then the front. It also allowed me to have an easy place to test circuits, tap into circuits without splicing and do some minor re-jigging if needed (it did). If I was to do it again I would spend more time drawing it up and eliminate about 1/3 of the terminal connections, but being kind of a prototype, that's how it ended up.
There are 6 relays in the system. 2 are in the headlight bucket for hi / low beams. The Hella relay block has 1 for main power from battery to circuit breakers (except for 1 breaker that's always hot for the clock and accessory / battery charging plug. 1 for the Stebel horn (19 amps!), , one for lighting control supplies tail & brake lights directly and send pwr. to the handlebar switch for beam select. And last 1 for the starter. Rather than use fuses I used aircraft type circuit breakers from www.aircraftspruce.com - push to reset.
There is a mix of wire gagesdepending on the load. Anything from 12 to 20 ga. The wire with colored tracers came from Rhode Island Wiring, the only place I could find such stuff.
Most connectors are crimped AMP rings. There are a couple Molex and one AMP metal plug for the tail light connection under the seat where it could get hit by a rock. For most bike wiring, 18 ga. is fine, we're only talking 3-4 amps. Charging circuits and the conductor from the battery / alternator output to power distribution. I also run a 14 ga. wire from power to the headlight relays.
The plumbing coming back from the engine to the rear of the bike is the engine breather to an air-oil seperator box under the seat (large) and and an oil return from the breather box to the engine sump that has a clear section for checking the oil level at the LH side of the battery box.
The termanal strips under the tank ended up being there for a coupl reasons. I drew up & built the wiring harness a system at a time so it was an easy way to do the rear section first & then the front. It also allowed me to have an easy place to test circuits, tap into circuits without splicing and do some minor re-jigging if needed (it did). If I was to do it again I would spend more time drawing it up and eliminate about 1/3 of the terminal connections, but being kind of a prototype, that's how it ended up.
There are 6 relays in the system. 2 are in the headlight bucket for hi / low beams. The Hella relay block has 1 for main power from battery to circuit breakers (except for 1 breaker that's always hot for the clock and accessory / battery charging plug. 1 for the Stebel horn (19 amps!), , one for lighting control supplies tail & brake lights directly and send pwr. to the handlebar switch for beam select. And last 1 for the starter. Rather than use fuses I used aircraft type circuit breakers from www.aircraftspruce.com - push to reset.
There is a mix of wire gagesdepending on the load. Anything from 12 to 20 ga. The wire with colored tracers came from Rhode Island Wiring, the only place I could find such stuff.
Most connectors are crimped AMP rings. There are a couple Molex and one AMP metal plug for the tail light connection under the seat where it could get hit by a rock. For most bike wiring, 18 ga. is fine, we're only talking 3-4 amps. Charging circuits and the conductor from the battery / alternator output to power distribution. I also run a 14 ga. wire from power to the headlight relays.
The plumbing coming back from the engine to the rear of the bike is the engine breather to an air-oil seperator box under the seat (large) and and an oil return from the breather box to the engine sump that has a clear section for checking the oil level at the LH side of the battery box.
mysta2 said:
Your bike is beautiful.
Workmanship superb.
That had to take a long time.
Several questions:
Where did you find the fittings on top of the carbs that change direction of the throttle cables?
The clutch is hydraulic?
What is the sheet-metal box below the trans?
Where is your battery? And what type/brand are you using?
Thanks for sharing this great piece of work.
Stephen.
Workmanship superb.
That had to take a long time.
Several questions:
Where did you find the fittings on top of the carbs that change direction of the throttle cables?
The clutch is hydraulic?
What is the sheet-metal box below the trans?
Where is your battery? And what type/brand are you using?
Thanks for sharing this great piece of work.
Stephen.
geodoc
New Member
swbrenton said:
Hi Stephen
The little gizmozs on the carb tops come from Moto Spezial in Germany - a Guzzi trick parts shop:
http://moto-spezial.de/download/9350-9330.DOC
They have different ones for different carbs (different cable / housing lengths), but I think they also sell the angle bit alone. It's a nice piece with a little pulley inside with an even smaller ball bearing.
Sheet metal box under the gearbox has the battery in it - an Odyssey PC310 which seems to have no trouble spinning up the starter against about the 10:1 CR.
