Engine rebuild quote UPDATE

CaferacerMO said:
I have to lifeguard until 9 tonight, I'll run those tests and report back.
Thank you for all of your guys knowledge and insight!
Soaking this all up.
lifeguard huh? . . I hope for your sake its on a nice warm beach with lots of hot lookin girls . . if so, please post photos
 
CaferacerMO said:
Oh im clueless.
I'm not afraid to admit that!
I've never actually dug this deep into a motor.
So I'm trying to soak all of this in like a sponge.
I'm going to pull off everything and just start over and following the procedures you guys are giving me.

So as soon as I get home, I'm pulling the head.
Then what?
this post proves that you are in fact extremely intelligent by realizing your limitations and being willing to take the advice of others . . I and others know about engines, you might know about brain surgery and we don't . . we all have our specialties . . there is someone that admittedly knows nothing about engines and selectively takes advice . . he now has 250 posts because of his resistance to follow the suggestions of some even when they all agree . . you really don't want your thread to go to 250 posts and still not have resolved your problem.
 
No beach babes here, i'm stuck in the middle of southwest Missouri sadly! I wish!

I need all the help I can get.. I fell in love with motorcycles as a sophomore in High School two years ago.. I had a 2006 Honda ruckus that I really went down on. Stretched and powder coated frame, Full engine swap, tons of modification. I loved it. But for my 18th birthday I got my first bike and really fell more in love. A year later and now i'm going deeper into a motorcycle then I ever have before.. Luckily I have DoTheTon to help me along! I am grateful!

I poured gas down the intake and exhaust side and watched the chamber.. from what I can tell I don't see moisture. Its pretty dark in there though, but, I couldn't see moisture none the less.

I pulled the cylinder to look at the rings, they still look fine. Although upon break down I noticed that I forgot to oil up the timing advance post rust treatment, so it was hardly moving. I went ahead and oiled that up for later.
 
CaferacerMO said:
I poured gas down the intake and exhaust side and watched the chamber.. from what I can tell I don't see moisture. Its pretty dark in there though, but, I couldn't see moisture none the less.

You'll want to do this test with the head removed and on the work bench so you can see more clearly.

Attached is a pic of a GS450 head failing the test.
 

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Definitely a good thing. I'd clean the carbon out of the chamber while you're here, but it's not 100% necessary.
 
Thank goodness.
What's best for cleaning that out?
May as well while it's off.

What test should I run next?
 
Wooden Popsicle stick or plastic scraper to get the big stuff and then some fine steel wool with soap and water to get the other bits. Any left overs can be removed with a special detergent designed for the job, such as Orange-Sol.

Keep it out of the oil passages. Compressed air when you're done helps.

No more tests unless you feel like checking valve guide clearances.

I don't know if your engine uses roller bearings, but I'd be willing to bet it's just plain bearings. Make sure those are all clean and free of excessive wear.

Some assembly lube on those surfaces as well as the cam lobes is a good idea.
 
So now it's time to reassemble and check my timing, valve clearances, etc?

And you said something about turning it by hand?
 
CaferacerMO said:
And you said something about turning it by hand?

Definitely.

If there are any clearance issues, turning the engine by hand (and not forcing it if it binds up) will save you a lot of tears and money.
 
Remove the spark plugs when doing this . . you will still feel some resistance which is created by the valve springs
 
CaferacerMO said:
Elaborate on what you mean by turn it by hand
I would push down on the kick starter by hand if you have one . . if you don't then you can put it on a stand then put it in gear then rotate thee rear wheel or remove the stator cover so you can access the crank bolt and tutn it with a wrench . a
 
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