FRANKENHONDA II the 1982 DOHC CB 750F2 Build

Jimbonaut

Well-Known Member
DTT SUPPORTER
There's many a slip between dress and drawers mate but looks like you've got it licked. Nicely done.

For the bolts, I didn't use loctite on the case bolts, but did apply some molybdenum disulphide high pressure grease to the bolt threads. For your snazzy new stainless cover bolts, they'll come with simple instructions - use a little loctite or copper anti-seize on the bolt threads and you're golden and don't torque them to the same spec you would the OEM cover bolts, but a little less.

By the way, your head bolts can be torqued higher than stated in the manual. Manual states 29ft lbs (I think) but - as yours is the F model - you can torque those bad boys down to 35ft lbs. Your studs look like this, right? -



(If so yeah, you can torque those head bolts down to 35ft lbs).
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
Even fuel-resistant engine paint needs a couple weeks to cure well. Use caution for a while. I used an All Balls kit on my '79 GL1000 petcock this week and it worked great.
 

cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Jimbonaut said:
There's many a slip between dress and drawers mate but looks like you've got it licked. Nicely done.

For the bolts, I didn't use loctite on the case bolts, but did apply some molybdenum disulphide high pressure grease to the bolt threads. For your snazzy new stainless cover bolts, they'll come with simple instructions - use a little loctite or copper anti-seize on the bolt threads and you're golden and don't torque them to the same spec you would the OEM cover bolts, but a little less.

By the way, your head bolts can be torqued higher than stated in the manual. Manual states 29ft lbs (I think) but - as yours is the F model - you can torque those bad boys down to 35ft lbs. Your studs look like this, right? -



(If so yeah, you can torque those head bolts down to 35ft lbs).
They were those kind of head bolts. Although it was quiet some time ago I torqued those. I followed the workshop manual.

I’m looking forwards to the new stainless bolts arriving.


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cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
pidjones said:
Even fuel-resistant engine paint needs a couple weeks to cure well. Use caution for a while. I used an All Balls kit on my '79 GL1000 petcock this week and it worked great.
The seal kit was a lot better than the dodgy fix I previously had, which leaked all over the engine in the first place.

Duly noted with the pain, taking that engine out to strip the pain again is the last thing I want to be doing. Hopefully it heats right up while it’s being dyno tuned next week and the pain bakes right on.

I’m looking at my speedo cable and the little thing (stop) at the end that slots into the carburettor has broken off. I had to customise the stop last time just to get it to fit into the hole on the carbs then it fell off. I’m not sure if the CR carbs have a specific throttle cable that they use or what. This may be handed over to the mechanic, summer doesn’t last long in Melbourne and I definitely want to be riding this summer, like in the next fortnight if the cycle gods see fit.


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Maritime

Well-Known Member
With stainless in aluminum you don't want loctite you want never seize as they will gall and react and weld themselves in otherwise. They should have instructions in the package if it's one of the better sellers on Ebay/amazon or a bike parts site.
 

pidjones

Well-Known Member
joem4790 said:
So is it alright to seal up the hole for the front cam chain tensioner?
Should just be a plug in the front and an odd bolt with o-ring in from the top with a lock nut on it. The main thing for them is LIGHT FINGERS ON THE WRENCH! So many (mine was) get snapped off. Just light tightening on the bolt and light locking with the nut. Check with the DOHC CB forums on sealing the front hole. Try http://www.cb750c.com/
 

cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
joem4790 said:
So is it alright to seal up the hole for the front cam chain tensioner?
I’ve replaced that cam guide with the Vince and Hyde cam guide which doesn’t adjust, well I don’t think it does. The bolt still moves freely.


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cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Had a little more shed time today, I had a spare gasket for the points cover so before I filled the engine back up with oil I removed it. Then using a razor blade, I carefully removed all of the Honda bond and gasket that was on previously. I wiped everything down with wax and oil remover, before using a paint brush to put Honda bond on both sides of the gasket prior to putting it all back together.

Next I re-torqued all the engine mount bolts, then I bled out the rear brake and adjusted the rear brake pedal so it sits a little higher.

I thought I would give it a start but when I went to try there was no power, I’m concerned because the battery was only off care and maintenance recharging for a week. It’s a brand new lithium battery. I don’t know what would be draining it now that it’s run down it’s probably ruined.

I have it charging now so I’ll see what happens.


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cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Well to the untrained eye you probably wouldn’t even notice what I’ve done.

I had to drop the exhaust to get the sump bolts in, but I didn’t mind too much because there were new stainless exhaust nuts to install. Unfortunately when it came time to install I realised that I had been supplied M8 nuts not M6 ahhhhhhhh nuts

Oh well I’ve messaged the supplier hopefully they will send me out the correct nuts. Looks like the earliest I can get a trailer to go to the mechanics is Thursday. Then Frankenhonda will be In the hands of the tuning gods, fingers crossed nothing goes pop to bang.


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Pete12

Member
That looks awesome Phillip. I've used the same bolt manufacturer before and have been really happy with the result. All good to go now, get her tuned then get her revving haha...
 

Jimbonaut

Well-Known Member
DTT SUPPORTER
Looking great mate, some days it’s the little things


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teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
I realize the bike hasn't exactly done a ton of mile or Kms yet but how is downshifting? The geometry of the front end of the linkage looks like it may need to be revised. Pressing DOWN on the shift lever will cause the linkage shaft to move forwards but the lever on the motor needs to move DOWN not forwards. It may be a heavy shift or it may refuse to downshift.

You will know soon enough, but I thought I'd mention it.
 

cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
teazer said:
I realize the bike hasn't exactly done a ton of mile or Kms yet but how is downshifting? The geometry of the front end of the linkage looks like it may need to be revised. Pressing DOWN on the shift lever will cause the linkage shaft to move forwards but the lever on the motor needs to move DOWN not forwards. It may be a heavy shift or it may refuse to downshift.

You will know soon enough, but I thought I'd mention it.
You are 100% correct about the linkage, although it does work on the road,it’s going to require a revision. I am actually talking with OMM about reworking the entire rear set brackets.


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cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Pete12 said:
That looks awesome Phillip. I've used the same bolt manufacturer before and have been really happy with the result. All good to go now, get her tuned then get her revving haha...
hell yea


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cb250nproject

If you can make it better do so
Well yesterday afternoon, I dropped Frankenhonda off to Rex down at T Rex racing. Hopefully nothing goes pop bang on the dyno
 

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