GL1000 clutch problem- I think.

I wouldn't say exactly necessary, but just for peace of mind. Plus, they are generally pretty cheap.........
 
... and you're already there!
Pay note to the fact I vaguely remeber the 1000 guys who did clutch jobs saying there is a Dampner Plate in the middle of the clutch pack that should be re-used. If I rember right (and my memory sucks) the new clutch kit has one too many friction dics in it. They left out one friction disc in order to re-use that Dampner Plate, other wise it is too thick to release when drawn down...
You probably ought to research this and verify, because if I am wrong your clutch would slip after all your hard work...
also... Be sure to draw the fasteners down gradually and evenly in a star pattern, read reports of the plate or basket cracks if not done properly.
 
Thanks for the input fellas. This is my brothers bike and he was a little short on cash so we just ordered the new plates and a gasket. I will probably go ahead and order a set of springs and let him pay me when he can.

I have been following this write up http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6905 that another DTT member found for me while were at Kileys scratching our heads about this thing.

I have also read a few other posts about the damper plate so I'm aware of it. Some people report finding it torn up when they open up the clutch but this one seems to be in good shape. Apparently it can be left out if you add two more clutch plates but since it's in good shape I'll just put it back in. Hopefully once the parts get here I can put it back together and it'll be alright.

Taking it apart was a pain in the ass, can't wait for all the 'fun' of reassembling it.
 
Yep you need little hands to work in there, Just adjusting the clutch cable is a pain. Make sure you soak the plates for at least 24 hours in oil or the life gets reduced greatly. Good luck, should be fine once you get it back together.
 
So, I've had the parts in for about a week now but time is my problem. When I'm not at school I'm often working. Looks like I'm free this Saturday so I'm gonna try to install the new clutch plates and springs. Hopefully this will get it back on the road.
 
Good luck, hope you don't get too many hand cramps trying to squeeze in the little spot. I know I have big hands and had to get my son to help with his little 7 yr old hands to get the clutch cable back on my GL.
 
I thought I was going to have an aneurysm trying to get the cable off. I'm sure putting it back will be a blast.
 
Okay, I got the clutch back in and the cover back on today. Tomorrow, I'll get the cable hooked back up, fill it up with oil and we'll see what happens.
 
Well, I buttoned it up and took it for a spin around the block and it seems to be alright. It shift very smoothly now. Next up is to get a correct air box and gasket to make it run properly.
 
On to my next issue. Any one know what would cause a GL1000 to have a cylinder full of gas after it'd been sitting for a few days?

Tried to start it the other day and it wouldn't turn over. Thought maybe the battery had run down so I threw it on the charger. After charging it still wouldn't turn over. The lights were coming on and I could hear the solenoid activating but the motor wasn't turning over. I took the battery and had it tested and it checked out, brought it home and still had the same symptoms. It almost seemed like the motor was locked up. On a hunch I started removing the spark plugs one at a time and trying the starter. When I pulled the last plug out and hit the starter it turned over and sprayed gas all over me out of the spark plug hole. Problem identified.

How did the gas get there though? It isn't a gravity fed fuel system, it runs off of a fuel pump from the tank under the seat so I'm completely baffled as to how it got there.

Any ideas?
 
The pump runs off the right cam, and it would be odd for it to go past that, and find it's way in through any of the valves...as it would most likely just leak into the exhaust. EDIT: Did you say your pump is under the gas tank on a GL1000? Must not be stock, is it electric?

Somehow it overflowed down the intake (stuck float) or something? Worst yet, was it all gasoline, or was it Gasoil maybe?

Don't mind me ;D , just throwing out possibilities that are odd. :eek:
 
MotorbikeBruno said:
Somehow it overflowed down the intake (stuck float) or something?
Click to expand...

That's it. Only way fuel can fill up a cylinder is if the carb overflows and it drains into the intake port.

If you have an electric pump it will just keep pouring in until it hydro-locks. Had that happen once on my ZX9 - took out all the plugs, turned the crank by rolling the bike in gear and sprayed the roof of the garage :eek:

Good quality paper element fuel filters are vital on electric fuel pumped motors.
 
It is common to GL's with mechanical pumps. With the carb rack and the intake runner right above intake port, coupled with that port on the top of the head... a petcock left on and a stuck float valve equals a cylinder full of gas.
The mechanical pump has a one way check vale that allows fuel to flow to the engine, not back to the tank on the pressure stroke. With the engine off fuel can still siphon through and flow past a stuck float valve needle.
Always close your petcock.
If it was closed, it needs rebuilt as it is not shutting off. Randakk sells kits.

Even on Randakks electric fuel pump conversion kit page he states ...

This pump includes an advanced anti-siphon valve which is an important safeguard against flooding and hydro-lock when the bike is parked. You should still close the petcock whenever the engine is shut down no matter how briefly...that's why the petcock is there!
Click to expand...
 
John, I know practically nothing about Wings.....

But I do know that there's a pretty good chance of some gasoline in your oil now. That's a common problem on Suzuki's.
 
Thanks for all the input fellas. It's still equipped with the standard mechanical pump run off the right side cam. It's not under the tank, sorry for the confusion. I believe that while the bike was sitting the petcock was OFF and I've suspected that it was wonky for a while.

Thanks for the enlightenment HD. It seem odd to me that fuel would be able to flow through the pump and all that to fill the cylinder but your explanation seems to make sense.

Flug, it was exciting. I was only about 50/50 that I was correct with my diagnosis and had already tried the other three cylinders. When I hit the starter I was leaning over the bike and directly in the path of the spark plug hole. I took a direct hit from the gasoline super-soaker. Luckily I was wearing my motorcycle/shed/yard work jeans.

I figured the oil might be contaminated with gas now. This thing is equipped with a sight glass instead of a dip stick so there's no great way to take a look at the oil. Probably safest to just change the oil.
 
Best way to check if you have gas in your oil is to take off the filler cap and smell inside the crankcase - if it smells like gas......
 
Also, you better check that you didn't bend a rod on that cylinder, that particular scenario has ruined a few in the past. the starter is strong enough to do it. Hope it is ok though.
 
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