Honda Twins - Three Phase Alternator Project

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Rectifiers usually only have minor technical differences between them. Regulators are a different story. Combined units also tend to be for specific applications (but not always).

In the case listed above, the 6V regulator will regulate the DC system voltage to 6V while the 12V will regulate to 12V. :p

The wattage listed on each is how much power it can handle before it gives up the ghost.

Also, for those mounting tabs on the side case... Make sure you mill the correct three, otherwise your stator cover will have to be mounted at an angle.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Sonreir said:
Rectifiers usually only have minor technical differences between them. Regulators are a different story. Combined units also tend to be for specific applications (but not always).

In the case listed above, the 6V regulator will regulate the DC system voltage to 6V while the 12V will regulate to 12V. :p

The wattage listed on each is how much power it can handle before it gives up the ghost.

Also, for those mounting tabs on the side case... Make sure you mill the correct three, otherwise your stator cover will have to be mounted at an angle.
I think I got the correct 3 :)


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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Sonreir cut the tabs and then used a cut off wheel for clearance

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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Looking good. I used a 4" hole saw and a file when I did mine. I'm thinking I might have to pick up a mini mill if I'm going to be doing this on a regular basis.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Sonreir said:
Looking good. I used a 4" hole saw and a file when I did mine. I'm thinking I might have to pick up a mini mill if I'm going to be doing this on a regular basis.
Fitment 2 nylon
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washers


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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Probably better to use too many than too few for this one. We want a nice tight fit and the stator cover bolts are now serving double-duty; they have to hold the cover on the side case and the stator to the side case as well.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
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probably need to address this...any suggestions. 1.8 ohms between all 3.


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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
There should be a rubber grommet on the old stator. I had envisioned clipping that off and attaching it to the new one.
 

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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Not sure it will be an exact fit as I think the grommet might be setup to run the three wires singly instead of as a bunch. It might take some finagling.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Sonreir said:
Not sure it will be an exact fit as I think the grommet might be setup to run the three wires singly instead of as a bunch. It might take some finagling.
I think I am going to use a piece of fuel line and then compress it.


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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Sonreir said:
Nothing a little Threebond won't fix. ;D
Sonreir where we plug into the Regulator we have 2 ohms between all three. Any other test I need to do before hooking everything up?


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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Do a quick check between any of the yellow wires and ground. You should have an Open Line (no continuity).

After that, you can hook up the regulator/rectifier, battery, and the voltmeter. You should see a little less than 13V if you're using LI-ION or about 12.5V if you're on lead acid.

Start the bike up and idle. Hopefully we'll be over 13V at this point already. If not, that's OK, but less than I was hoping for. Give it some revs and see how high the voltage climbs. Low 14s is where the R/R is calibrated, so if you hit 15V, shut everything off as something may be wrong.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Also, turn the engine over a bit by hand before running anything. We want to make sure nothing is binding.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Sonreir said:
Do a quick check between any of the yellow wires and ground. You should have an Open Line (no continuity).

After that, you can hook up the regulator/rectifier, battery, and the voltmeter. You should see a little less than 13V if you're using LI-ION or about 12.5V if you're on lead acid.

Start the bike up and idle. Hopefully we'll be over 13V at this point already. If not, that's OK, but less than I was hoping for. Give it some revs and see how high the voltage climbs. Low 14s is where the R/R is calibrated, so if you hit 15V, shut everything off as something may be wrong.
To Infinity and beyond. Is it ok I to not hook up the battery and check the DC voltage only first ?

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Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
No. You're definitely going to want the load of the battery on the system.

If you're concerned about the bike battery, you can use jumper cables from a car battery (car turned off) or borrow a battery from another bike.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Also, make sure that black wire is seeing 12V when the ignition switch is in the on position. It's for voltage sensing and the R/R won't work with it unplugged. You can, temporarily, connect it to the battery positive terminal along with the red wire for testing purposes, but don't leave it that way as it will drain the battery over the period of a week or so.
 

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