Inherited Grandpa's old Bike. Cafe Time!

Holy smokes.

As bruno started to explain, the drain is intended to be fitted with a specially formed piece of rubber hose, which was very pliable when brand new. With no vacuum on the drain (engine off), the tiny slit that is formed in the bottom of the tube allows any water or more likely fuel to drain out of the plenum. When the engine is running, when functioning properly the vacuum closes the slit, and no unfiltered air enters the engine.
 
Got to cleaning the front brake assembly today. The piston was really stuck in there so I had to use my air compressor. Almost died. If anybody tries that, make sure you aim the piston away from your face. Ordered a new set of pads and master cylinder :)
 
gordo2472003 said:
Got to cleaning the front brake assembly today. The piston was really stuck in there so I had to use my air compressor. Almost died. If anybody tries that, make sure you aim the piston away from your face. Ordered a new set of pads and master cylinder :)

Yeah, that is the correct way to get the piston out, but turn the reg down and wrap the caliper in a rag to catch it... yew ain't the firs and yew won't be the last to learn that one.
 
gordo2472003 said:
Got to cleaning the front brake assembly today. The piston was really stuck in there so I had to use my air compressor. Almost died. If anybody tries that, make sure you aim the piston away from your face. Ordered a new set of pads and master cylinder :)

kinda reminds me of this valuable life lesson =)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhZTlqqeBi0
 
nah tune-a, I aint into that faces of death stuff. watch it. I keep it pg
 
gordo2472003 said:
Got to cleaning the front brake assembly today. The piston was really stuck in there so I had to use my air compressor. Almost died. If anybody tries that, make sure you aim the piston away from your face. Ordered a new set of pads and master cylinder :)
Don't "aim" it anywhere. Set it down on a wood block or a folded drop cloth and pop it out towards the backer. You dont want that sumbitch flying through the air at all. Keep your fingers out too, it can cut them right off.

Used properly a grease gun will do the same thing in a much more controlled manner.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
And it needs to be pinched like that once and a while to break up the dirt settlement or it will eventually fill with water.
I has a sunroof drain do that....talking about making you feel dumb... :mad: pinched it and away goes the water issues
 
ok. As far as adjusting the cam chain tensioner, adjusting the points and adjusting the valves, in what order should I check and service those? Does it even matter?
 
I'd adjust valves, then cam chain and then points. But I don't think any of those really bother any of the others so it won't matter what order.
 
gordo2472003 said:
ok. As far as adjusting the cam chain tensioner, adjusting the points and adjusting the valves, in what order should I check and service those? Does it even matter?
i would do the valves and camchain first if the timing chain has a bunch of slack it makes the timing light jump around like a (**()&)((*)_ jumping bean
 
+1 always double check/reset timing after messing w chain adjustment.

also, only adj valves cold, everything else hot.
 
Was about to start the valve adjustment when I noticed that the points plate seems relatively new. yes It could be that it was just covered well over the past two decades but then I tried to adjust the cam chain tensioner and the screw wont budge. It will turn over so slightly to the right or left but no further. Im wondering if my grandfather had previously had trouble with the timing on this bike. And also realized my feeler gauges are too big so Ill have to hold off on this job anyway.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1422.jpg
    IMG_1422.jpg
    698.7 KB · Views: 267
Pull the three bolts holding the adjuster in and remove it, don't stick a screwdriver in the gasket and pry on it. get a chunk of 1X2 and tap it from both sides very lightly until it pops free. Once you have it out you can check it over and soak it int some PB, once you get the jam and lock nut and bolt loose start working the adjuster loose if it's stuck, there's a small hole in the back that you can slid a small drift into and tap the adjuster out a little just don't beat on any of it and you will be fine.
 
If the gaps are set to spec, I wouldnt mess w it. Until you get her fired up again, warmed to temp and just check it w the strobe...it may be dead on already.
 
and the time chain may be fine if you had it running and it wasnt making "the noise" do like tuna promoted but dont sweat it besides the engine heat should help the soak
a looser chain it will make the timing sometimes look all shaky in the timing lite image because the cam can actually move,in a very snatchy action in the advanced direction when the rocker arms are sliding off a lobe returning the energy stored in the valve spring back to the engine ..some think a loose timing chain causes retarded timing but that is actually quite impossible.. if the chain is worn that does retard the timing in direct relation to how worn ,but just having the chain loosenm up ,nope
there is a simple method to verify a slack free chain as well
oh wait all that stuff only applies if the points are on the cam. like a honda twin.yers atre crank mounted which is better .you wont have a shakyu image no matter how loose the chain is.......never mind :-X :mad: :eek: ::) although it still applies to the cam timing just not ignition on yer sohc4
 
Ok, I just got all my new bar controls and carb boots in today. I have everything I need to make this baby fire up again. Just one question. This wire was disconnected when I got the bike, it seems to have been connected to a small input on the clutch handle. It wasnt wired through the bar like the rest of the wires. what is this wire for?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1444.jpg
    IMG_1444.jpg
    691.8 KB · Views: 236
Back
Top Bottom