Inherited Grandpa's old Bike. Cafe Time!

Hey man thanks for the input. I think I was caught up in the cafe hype and wanted to clear out all airbox and electrical components from view but since the pros on this site think that airbox would be my best bet, I wont be buying pods but I will buy that UNI stock replacement. I still need to figure out why if I install velocity stacks that I would need to replace my manifolds.
 
good on you for keeping the airbox and leaving the "clutter" of electrical be as it is...
personally i think the open triangle look has been overdone to death and to me it looks really awful, all that work for the same dumb look every other sheep in the flock has done ,its not like it was what was done back in the day it is some kinda internet trend, thats all
who knows you just might have more fun designing and fabbing some custom side panels, if you dont stick with the stock side covers
that my 2 pennies worth, thats all
 
i think you are missing the gist of the advice. your metal manifolds bolted to the head are fine use them they have a gasket at the head a possible point of leakage it may be a good idea to refresh the gaskets
the rubbers that attach the carbs to them, get cracked old and hard and these are something to address inspect and replace if any doubts
the rubbers connecting to the airbox are the factory honda tuned velocity stacks they also can get hard crack and not seal properly to the box,thats all
 
xb33bsa said:
i think you are missing the gist of the advice. your metal manifolds bolted to the head are fine use them they have a gasket at the head a possible point of leakage it may be a good idea to refresh the gaskets
the rubbers that attach the carbs to them, get cracked old and hard and these are something to address inspect and replace if any doubts
the rubbers connecting to the airbox are the factory honda tuned velocity stacks they also can get hard crack and not seal properly to the box,thats all
Click to expand...

Yep, there's an O-ring where the metal meets the head. Part #38 O Ring 30 8 mm

see here : http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k2-four-1976-usa_model464/partslist/E++01.html#results

I agree with XB, the stock box is actually quite nice in most respects, the only real "problem" with it, is that it's a pain to get the carbs in/out. But if you do it right, you won't have to do that very often and it's a moot point.
 
Cut a broomstick handle to replace the spring and out it in and put the cap on and secure it. It will keep the fork tube from turning while you spin the allen bolt out. Propane heat is your friend on the bolt.
 
Took the wheels in to get the tires removed. Turns out grandpa put a 16 wheel in the back with custom spokes. The wheel is cracking and the spokes are shot. Need to find a stock rim since ive already ordered the 18inch spokes. This this listing will work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Honda-1-85-18-40-hole-chrome-rear-rim-185-DID-CB-450-500-550-42701-283-003-/141788904213?hash=item210346fb15:g:hh8AAOSw42JWC~4-&vxp=mtr
 
MotorbikeBruno said:
Yep, there's an O-ring where the metal meets the head. Part #38 O Ring 30 8 mm

see here : http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k2-four-1976-usa_model464/partslist/E++01.html#results

I agree with XB, the stock box is actually quite nice in most respects, the only real "problem" with it, is that it's a pain to get the carbs in/out. But if you do it right, you won't have to do that very often and it's a moot point.
Click to expand...
on some you just wd40 the shite out of them and shove them back into the airbox,take 'em outta the groove fit ,then when the carbs are all on, pull them out to the carbs ,refit the groove,its an easy way if they are soft enough
 
Ok guys. I have a stubborn shifter rod seal that I need to replace. I have the seal here and ready to install. Any tips on removing the old one?
 
Tap a punch or screwdriver through it and pry it out, it's no more than a beer top with a hole and seal.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Tap a punch or screwdriver through it and pry it out, it's no more than a beer top with a hole and seal.
Click to expand...

worked like a charm :)

Anyway, my new bars will be in tomorrow. Any tips on if i should drill the bars for electrical or if there are other options?
 
Drill them the same as Honda, it's worth it for overall clean bars... to slot the bottom/lower holes drill two holes and use a dremel to cut the chunk out between the holes, be sure to deburr the holes and use some lube to pull the wires through. Oh and the easy method to pull wires, tie a ball of foam to a chunk of cord and use a shop vac to suck the foam through the bars and out of the slotted hole(s).
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Drill them the same as Honda, it's worth it for overall clean bars... to slot the bottom/lower holes drill two holes and use a dremel to cut the chunk out between the holes, be sure to deburr the holes and use some lube to pull the wires through. Oh and the easy method to pull wires, tie a ball of foam to a chunk of cord and use a shop vac to suck the foam through the bars and out of the slotted hole(s).
Click to expand...

Nice. Saving that one!
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Drill them the same as Honda, it's worth it for overall clean bars... to slot the bottom/lower holes drill two holes and use a dremel to cut the chunk out between the holes, be sure to deburr the holes and use some lube to pull the wires through. Oh and the easy method to pull wires, tie a ball of foam to a chunk of cord and use a shop vac to suck the foam through the bars and out of the slotted hole(s).
Click to expand...
tut ! tut !fookin genius , suck the slotted hoes
 
gordo2472003 said:
I will definitely buy those then. But why those over the shiny mesh looking cones?
Click to expand...

Late to the convo, but this is what the boot looks like in the crappy EMGO filters:

IMG_3090_zpsbba4a5d6.jpg


Notice that they block the air jet orifices and are smaller than the carb throat:

IMG_3091_zps4afd230e.jpg


Not to mention they they're filtering ability might keep small birds out of your engine....but that's about it. Here's a thread I started (on another forum) with more detail:
http://www.caferacer.net/forum/tips-tricks/19639-pod-filter-thread-geeto.html
 
it also helps for a person to understnd that there really isnt any "sucking" going on and if it weren't for the fact that ever day we walk around on a planet that is presurised to about 15psi with what we call air,, it is properly called atmosperic pressure and of course it is a wide mix of gases with a small part oxygen
without all the above engines could not run you would have to carry your own bottle of air
in actuality tha vast majority of the natural state of things is 0 psi .like in space. no air.no pressure. that is normal. way more than the freak show earth
ok then well ,the only reason an engine can get any air inside is because it is creating an area of less pressure than atomsfear and the atomsfearic pressure(15psi or so) aint hanging withit and goes about rushin in to make things even it cant stand an imbalance and it cant stand to see a motherfucking pocket that has lost some of its precious pressure
problem is when the fucking skate bored and pizza box's and empty milk crates are scatterd all down and up the hallway and stairs it stumbles and trips and just has a tough time fufilling its purpose so to speak
its not like it is being pulled in, its not being sucked in neither, it is simply trying to create and get things back even "and it only has so much energy and time to do it
 
I think ive made a terrible mistake. I cut the wires near the controls so I could splice them back after I install the new bars, now I realize that a big wad of wires all spliced up wont fit in the 7/8 bars. Ideas?
 
you gotta plan it out and stagger the cuts
at this point then yer gonna have ta get some good shrink tube and do solderd wire splices that are just as skinny as the wire was
cover it nice with one layer of good quality shrink tube
FCQWR1FFRXUSAGH.MEDIUM.jpg
 
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