Kawasaki Z650 Seventies Special

Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
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Test fitted the new billet yokes to take the wider 43mm forks in the pic below, after which I decided to machine the underside top yoke so it sits over the adjuster nuts, as it'll look better and give an extra 10mm or so of ground clearance, at the expense of making adjustment trickier.

Still not got the head back, I suspect a lot of shops are using C19 as an excuse for poor service.

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Coxbow

Active Member
I etch my stuff. Saline etching, with copper sulfate and salt, is super cheap, really easy and relatively low toxicity. I use vinyl as a resist most of the time.

really nice result ! could I have your formula, I do this with 2 acids and water, very toxic !
 

Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
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I'd like to learn more about your process too Irk. Never etched, but would like to try
 

Coxbow

Active Member
It's quite easy to explain, make a negative sticker of what you wan't to etch, dip the part in your solution, wait... ( it "eats" the metal approx 1mm per 30 minutes )

I did it with aluminium copper and brass, it work's with the same mixture, works best with aluminium.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I'd like to learn more about your process too Irk. Never etched, but would like to try
1:1 mixture of copper sulfate and salt. I use 500mL of water per 200 grams of salt/copper sulfate mixture. You can adjust your mixture per need. I sometimes go stronger. Dissolve in hot water. If you etch on a warm hot plate, it can shorten etch time. As the aluminum etches, the surface will collect oxide that inhibits the etch, so I take a soft bristle brush and brush off the surface every 20-30 seconds. The oil tank cap is a 10 minute etch.
 

Coxbow

Active Member
10 minute etch ! That's about 3 times faster than my corrosive mixture ! I'll try it out, thanks
 

Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
The top yoke has been modded to drop it over the adjuster nuts, while work has started on making the adaptor plates to mount the R6 discs to my old billet front wheel. The R6 forks are now ready to go on the bike, though I will be painting the fork lowers black. With the bike being at my mates workshop, it might be awhile before I can go and check up on progress, since we ae in lockdown again.
 

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Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
The front end is now almost complete, just need to pretty up the disc adaptor plates by machining them to match the discs, and paint the fork lowers black, and maybe also paint the spokes too..
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Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
Due to the November lockdown here in the UK, progress has been frustratingly slow, but at least the lockdown ended today. The good news is that the Zed head has returned with new valve guides and reground seats. But before it can go off to be ceramically coated to match the rest of the engine, the welded repairs had to be dressed to make them look a little more presentable. This was done with a hand drill, followed by a Dremel, and finishing off with some fine wet and dry sand paper. That done, I'll be taking the head to Camcoat tomorrow, hopefully I'll get it back before Xmas.

Meanwhile, we made a start on making a fibreglass seat base. It looks very rough at the moment, but a few more layers and plenty of sanding should see it ready for upholstery. Still need to work out the best way of mounting it to the frame, but got a couple of ideas.


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Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
The 1170 piston kit arrived this week, so the block has gone back to the machine shop to be bored out to 75mm to fit the new pistons..
 

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Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
We are once again in lockdown here in the UK, which makes getting anything done on the Zed almost impossible. The frame is at my mates work shop which I cant visit, while the block still hasn't been bored yet, though I'm told it'll be done next week. However, the internet is still working, so over Christmas I ordered the most expensive part for the bike (so far).. a set of Mikuni RS34 flatside carbs.. They will need some pod filters too, but not sure which to buy. K&N, DNA etc.
 

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Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
With the cylinder block back from the machine shop, the engine assembly could finally continue. Sadly I cant go to my mates workshop (due to our lockdown) where he's doing the build, but he did send me a few pics of progress. Also the head has been rebuilt with new valves, seals and guides..
 

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Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
The standard GPz1100 head gasket wouldn't work with the 1170 pistons, so another gasket had to be bought, this time from Cometic. That done the head could go on, and the build finally completed.

Except...

Turns out the cams I had weren't from a B2, even though they came out of the B2 engine.. Nope, they are out of a Z1100A motor. Kawasaki ID the cams by machining various grooves in the obsolete tacho drive area of the cam.

What to do ?

Wait to source a good pair of B2 cams, or go with the Z1100 cams and get the blooming engine finished asap? I decided to use the Z1100 cams for now. If I find the power lacking, I can always fit different cams in future. The B2 cams having more lift and duration.

 

Bevelheadmhr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
Found a good set of cams, so the engine is now almost done. Also fitted a homemade manual camchain adjuster, as the original auto ones tend to stick and allow the camchain to be too slack. Next is to source a set of manifolds to suite the RS34 flatslides, then they can be test fitted.

Oh and just bought my next project.. another old Zed in bits :)
 

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