Krazy Katana

'O' rings are normally fine if they are still soft. AFAIK they are a stock size so no need to use Suzuki ones.
You could also use sealer on them, they are only drain tubes
The flat seals under hold down Allen bolts normally leak after second or third use.
The alloy washers under the feed bolts get crushed then people overtighten bolts to compensate, that's why the bolts snap off
 
hillsy said:
I bet the guy before you didn't though......
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Ha! There's a lot of things the PO probably didn't do. I feel like I find myself running in to the stupid shit he did. I guess that's what happens when you buy a cheap bike though.
 
If there was a 'like' button I'd press it ;D
Cheap old bikes only stay cheap if nothing is broken or needs replacing, otherwise they will get really expensive. It only seems more expensive if your buying stuff every few days rather than couple of months, the faster you want it done, the more it appears to cost ;)
I'm never counting everthing I've spent on CB360's :D
 
For your reference. I figured I have spent a little under 3k on my Katana project so far, that includes the price of the bike ($400) and an extra engine with low mileage for when the trans blows in the current motor ($200). Big items still to buy are new tires in the spring and a digital speedo. Total cost will be a little over 3k, but this project has also been spread out over the last 4 years. So it has not been that big of a drag on the paycheck. It is mostly all the little parts that have added up.


I hope to get many years of use out of this bike so the investment was worth it for me.
 
andoor said:
For your reference. I figured I have spent a little under 3k on my Katana project so far, that includes the price of the bike ($400) and an extra engine with low mileage for when the trans blows in the current motor ($200). Big items still to buy are new tires in the spring and a digital speedo. Total cost will be a little over 3k, but this project has also been spread out over the last 4 years. So it has not been that big of a drag on the paycheck. It is mostly all the little parts that have added up.


I hope to get many years of use out of this bike so the investment was worth it for me.
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I have no idea how much my XS650 is going to cost if it ever gets finished. ::)
New oversize cylinder liners were a major expense ($190.00 - 9 yrs ago), welding, machining, parts and pieces, swing arm and shock, forks, wheel rims, spokes plus a gazzilion odds and ends.
The 'nickel and dime stuff is what really adds up
Been about 10 yrs + so far. :eek:
It's only done around 400 miles since first build, had 3~4 fork and wheel swaps then I decided to go whole hog (not one of my smartest moves ;D )
 
I'm around $1400 in so far, including 850 for the bike. Not bad, but its just been over the past 6 months so it seems worse. Definitely the little stuff that adds up. Speaking of tires, any recommendations? Mine are on their way out.
Also: After lowering the front of the engine I had some issues getting it back in. Everything lined up beautifully except the bottom bracket on the left side rail. I can only get two of the bolt holes to line up no matter how much prying and jacking we did. So, right now its just one bolt in the engine and the other in the frame. I think the bracket could be the issue, since the bit that the lower fairing attaches to is bent out instead of in and it looks like the nut is on the wrong side. Could this be the wrong bracket/ could it be on the wrong way?
 
Loosen all the engine mounting bolts. You may need to jack under exhaust or sump (careful, they are pretty thin)
The motor will twist slightly in frame which makes putting removable section back in more difficult than it needs to be. As for tyres, I really like Michelin Pilots
 
crazypj said:
Loosen all the engine mounting bolts. You may need to jack under exhaust or sump (careful, they are pretty thin)
The motor will twist slightly in frame which makes putting removable section back in more difficult than it needs to be.
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That's what I did but I couldn't get the last one in. All the others were just in place, not tightened at all. We put a jack on the sump (exhaust was off b/c the head was just off)
 
You may need to make a 'bodger bolt'
Bolt or stud with correct thread
First few threads ground off on a curved taper (? - kinda like a bullet end)
I use a thread file to put some 'threads' on the end so it can be started at an angle.
It will pull itself into position as long as your not more than about 1/4" off
When it's all lined up you tighten everything, back out 'bodger' and hopefully everything is lined up well enough to get the proper bolt in
The bolt shape was used by Honda and Yamaha in the 1970's~80's, (maybe still is?) never for this application though ;D
You could also try just jacking under the low spot?
 
Interesting. Might have to give that a shot. We tried jacking the engine under the low spot, and had a big pry bar to try moving it around but never got less than 1/8" or so to where it needed to be.
 
I seriously think the last person to work on this bike had brain problems or something... Flipped the bracket over and all the holes lined up beautifully.
On another note, any recommendations for chains? Just looking online and there are a lot of options from JT chains at $60 to DID chains for $200. Trying to get something of good quality but not break the bank. Also right now the bike has a 49 on the back, and stock is 46. I'm planning on going back to stock, and curious how much of a difference three teeth will make in the acceleration and cruising speed. I like how hard it pulls right now, but I wouldn't mind dropping cruising RPM a little since I am hoping to take this bike on some trips around the state in the future, which involves a good amount of highway and 55mph spots. I'm not sure what the front on the bike is right now, can't see through the cover.
 
I bought one of the RK chain and sprocket kits. It comes with an Xring chain and front and rear sprockets for about $150. I don't have any miles on it yet, but seems like good quality. Also I have RKs on all my other bikes and have never had any issues. The kit comes 14 /46, and I believe my bike (92-98) came 14/45, but the difference of one tooth in the rear should be minimal. 49 to 46 however would be a noticeable jump you should see lower revs at speed . Losing three teeth on the rear is equal to gaining one on the front, and on my CB360 going up one on the front made a huge difference in drive-ability.
 
When did you get it? I'm seeing them as $200 on the RK website and $180 from BikeBandit for the natural.
Good to know, just got to decide on how many teeth now ::)
 
I don't remember exactly where I got it from (it was over a year ago), but ebay and amazon are currently around $160 for the kit.
 
Well, I found the $160 kit on amazon you were talking about, didn't see it before cuz I had the "what fits my machine" filter on, but the $160 kit matches the part number on the RK website. Looks like I'll be going that route then! Guess I'll find out how different stock gearing is :D
 
Been spending a day trying to get the front sprocket off.. Bike is in gear, 2x4 is between swingarm and wheel spoke, but still can't get the nut off even with a breaker bar. Going to pick up a propane torch tomorrow so I can try heating it to see if that helps. Also found out the front sprocket is a 15, unless I forgot how to count ;). So, I'll be going from a 3.27 to a 3.29 final drive ratio. Not too much of a change there!
 
That nut is always really TIGHT.
I used a 2ft breaker bar on mine, though I was going to pull the bike over on top of me ;D
You did remember to bend the tab washer down off the nut?
 
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