KZ 750 Twin - Two point zero

canyoncarver

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Aluminum tape. You're right Hurco... I just need to finish it. I've been trying to get the wax on there so it will actually work as a release agent. We just put a deposit down on a 12x20 shed for the back yard and that prep is keeping us busy at the moment.
 

canyoncarver

'hacking is learning'
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I had a free day during the weekend so I got on the seat glass project.
I got two layers done and decided I could finish it better off the bike. Let it set up about a day and a half
then I took my time and peeled the whole deal off the frame. My "release agent" strategy worked really well.
Oh....I'm never going to used chopped mat again, that stuff is awful once you go to brush the resin on,
stringy mess all over. The woven mat was much easier. There is still a ton to do, sanding and a few more layers
of mat and resin to beef it up. It should be simpler now that it's off the bike and I can do other stuff with the frame as well.
Cheers.
 

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irk miller

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canyoncarver said:
I'm never going to used chopped mat again, that stuff is awful once you go to brush the resin on,
stringy mess all over. The woven mat was much easier.
I'm pretty sure the woven cloth is stronger, too.
 

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
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The only time i would use chopped mat is for the first layer on a gel coat mold so the pattern of a woven mat doesn't transfer into the gel.
 

canyoncarver

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An experiment but lesson learned! Getting the resin/hardener ratio right was interesting. I just eyeballed small quantities at a time. It was outside on an 80 degree day. It gave me about the expected 10-12 min working time. I need more acetone around next time for cleanup too.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
deviant said:
I'm pretty sure the woven cloth is stronger, too.
But only in one direction.

Chopped mat is equally strong in all directions, though it is weaker than woven 'glass in it's stronger direction.

The mat is better for curved pieces whereas woven is better for flatter surfaces. Mat is also the correct choice when doing patch work.
 

Maritime

Active Member
When using chopped mat the best method is to dab the resin on, then when you put the woven down you can brush it out smooth.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
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I have built wood/fiberglass boats and worked with people in the composites industry, so i've had an inside look into this stuff. My buddy's last company built fiberglass and carbon parts for the America's Cup boats.

Chop mat is for fiberglass tubs. Woven mat is for calculated structural applications,(the same concepts apply for carbon fiber). Sonrier is correct about the strength in a single direction, but that is where planning your layers comes into play. You can use 4+ layers at 40*, 90*, and 120* from the original layer in order to resist deflection in multiple directions. The pro's have math and formulae they use to plan out the layout of the layers of glass, I personally just wing it and have been fine. The fenders on the 360 consist of 3 layers of woven 6oz mat at 0*, 45* and 90* and there is hardly any deflection in any direction even when torquing with your hands.

If you're going with a few layers of chop mat, it will work just fine.

Oh and try using a roller with chop mat
 

irk miller

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Sonreir said:
But only in one direction.

Chopped mat is equally strong in all directions, though it is weaker than woven 'glass in it's stronger direction.

The mat is better for curved pieces whereas woven is better for flatter surfaces. Mat is also the correct choice when doing patch work.
I was talking per layer. And like adventurco points out, you alternate direction with layers. The same goes for most structural applications of any grained material. It's basic physics. When layering wood for ply, you alternate direction of the grain for strength.

As far as "correct", it also depends on what you're using as an epoxy. Some wet better than others.
 

irk miller

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Fiberglass rollers are a must for the mat. I also work a lot with varying strands from 1/2" to 4" in sculpture, so no mat or cloth. You can make your own with stacked washers, or even coating a tiny brush roller with epoxy...



 

canyoncarver

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You guys are full of good info. Since this is the first time I've worked with this stuff I'm learning as I go. I've already figured out a thing or two I'd do different on my shape and the way I laid out the pattern. As far as laying down the resin and mat, the info you guys posted is helpful. I was aware of using different angles when laying down the mat but didn't know about the different tools. Now that I've seen them, they make alot of sense. Thanks for the input gentlemen!
 

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
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I recently found the part number for the BS38 main jets which have proven difficult to find so far. Search N100.606-SIZE and there are lots of options. I bought some and they fit. 8)
 

canyoncarver

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advCo said:
What ever happened with the fiberglass seat pan?

Still have it and it still needs a few layers if I'm going to use it. I need those roller tools or I need to make some.
 

adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
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canyoncarver said:
Still have it and it still needs a few layers if I'm going to use it. I need those roller tools or I need to make some.
The rollers are great but I never use them. I have always just used plastic squeegees similar to the bondo ones.
 

canyoncarver

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advCo said:
The rollers are great but I never use them. I have always just used plastic squeegees similar to the bondo ones.

Squeegees I have. Maybe I can do some stinky resin stuff this weekend.
 
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