Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I have not inspected the clutch at all. It was shifting, and now it's not.
I believe the clutch is stuck in the "disengaged" position because if I push on the shift rod, it doesn't even budge. So I think it's stuck in the "in" position if that makes sense. It needs to release so that when I pull on the clutch lever it pushes the rod in.
I guess I need to somehow get the clutch to re-engage the plates and than see if it works.
You might also try tapping on it vigorously with a rubber hammer, its what I did on my clutch when my spring was having some issues and it popped right back out. (Course I checked it when I took the engine apart I checked it and didn't seem to be any issues with it just was stuck for some random reason)
Verdict, I got it to shift into first again. Not sure what this means, but it's willingness to shift into first is entirely based on where the rotation the engine is. For instance, won't shift into first, roll it forward 1 foot, shifts into first. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?
THAN, with engine running, shift into first, let out clutch and nothing happens. Which leads me to believe my initial feeling was correct. Clutch is stuck in the disengaged position. Does this sound like a accurate assumption? Or does the transmission issue sound like it is a bigger deal and may be causing this?
Rode for the first time! Thanks to some minor clutch adjustments clutch/tranny issues appear to be solved.
She rides pretty well. Definitely needs some more adjusting. RPM's drop pretty low upon releasing clutch and giving gas, but I should be able to fix that via the pilot screw... I think. Or just giving it more gas
Video is of it running not riding. It is dark out and I don't really have a brake light, so I didn't want to be on the road too much.
Don't mind the ugly seat. It will be changing as soon as I can get the bike to Swapmeetlouie's and don't mind the oil leak. I will be replacing that gasket ASAP.
I'll try to keep this simple. So let me start from the beginning so you have all the facts:
First, about 2 weeks ago I finally got the bike to start. BUT it was idling really high, the idle screw wasn't working real well and only 1 cylinder was firing consistently. It was also noted that my intake boots were not sealing 100%.
Since I am running open headers and k&n style intake rejetting was the next step. I upped the size on my main just 1 size but could not find the secondary jet or pilot jets anywhere in town. So I left them stock for the time being.
After installing new jets and tweaking carbs for about 2 hours it started running much more smoothly. Only problem was that when revving the idle would sometimes remain high. Wouldn't drop back down. I am pretty sure my throttle cables were adjusted correctly, so not sure what was the cause exactly.
Remembering that my intake boots weren't sealing the previous week, and wondering if that could be the cause, I went ahead and sealed them last night.
NOW it is back to only firing consistently on ONE cylinder and will hardly even idle with the choke on. The only thin I changed from running really strong and idling high to now was sealing the intake boots.
I am confused because this is the opposite of how it was running before, and the opposite of what I would have expected sealing a intake leak to do. It appears it WAS running rich but is NOW running lean.
A couple of thoughts: Open pipes plus low restriction filter equals lean bike even if u are 1 up on the mains.Have u pulled plugs and checked to see what they look like?Oily,black and sooty,tan,white--all will tell u something about whats going on with air/fuel mix.were carbs cleaned and synched before bike was started?Pilot circuits on old carbs are a biotch to get clean.Just some thots to ponder.Good luck.bj
A couple of thoughts: Open pipes plus low restriction filter equals lean bike even if u are 1 up on the mains.Have u pulled plugs and checked to see what they look like?Oily,black and sooty,tan,white--all will tell u something about whats going on with air/fuel mix.were carbs cleaned and synched before bike was started?Pilot circuits on old carbs are a biotch to get clean.Just some thots to ponder.Good luck.bj
Definitely lean! I'd order that pilot jet in one and two sizes up, and order a mainjet that is 15% larger than the one you are running now. For example, a #100 mains becomes a #115. This is generally how I've found pods and freed up exhaust need to be treated. You may want to up your needles by one notch as well (clip goes down one notch on the needles).
If you do that I reckon you might be surprised at how she runs. Don't forget to tune the mixture screws after each modification, and go in this order: Pilot jet (gets idle right), mainjet (topend), needles (midrange), float-height (clean pull from low revs {1/4 redline} at wide open throttle). Again, tune the mixture screws and idle to suit after each modification.
Regards - boingk
EDIT: I just noticed you mentioned open pipes. I would recommend a muffler (even a small one) or some sort of restriction in there as totally open pipes will generally lose you power unless you're running a high-lift, long duration drag-strip camshaft and other appropriate modifications. Everday bikes (hell, even streetable performance bikes) need some backpressure to work well. It'll also make the neighbours hate you less and the bike more pelasurable to ride.
Right. I'm a fan of the Unifilter pods - check out unifilter.com.au and scroll down through the options. They also have slip-ins for the stock airbox. All are made out of washable and reusable foam membranes. Love 'em.
Anyway, if you free up the exhaust then yeah generally you'll go leaner. The intakes may also have leaned you out - I'd be betting on it as more surface area generally equals more flow. Think of it as garden hose vs a fire hose - pressure and velocity may be the same, but the firehose is a lot bigger!
Do what you want/need to do with the exhaust and see how it goes. I'm betting it'll still be a tad lean. After you've got it physically how you want it (ie exhaust and air filters) then you can jet it. It really isn't a big deal.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.