kz550 what in the world?

merc4now

Been Around the Block
hopefully you guys can help me get this running so a freind can use it and help fund my cb450 project.

1984 kz550
bought as is,

Cleaned the carbs they werent too bad considering it's sat for a few years in a garage. no air box, I have spark on coils, changed oil it looked like it had gas mized in it? not milky at all but some kind of liquid was mixed in it or they ran the lightest oil possible. clean fuel, can't get it to even hit once without a small mist of starter fluid around the throats. when it does fire I get a few hits or a hit and massive backfire. but never runs more then one or two hits on its own without starter. Also noticed it spits ever other turn through what I thought was a vent hose? for the carbs.

compression test gave the following results.

left side to right
130,120,90,105
added oil into the 3rd cylinder and it jumped to like 230.

Does that indicate a stuck valve?

Any suggestions would be appreicated I really want it out of my garage so I can work on my other projects.
 
Re: kz550 130,120,90,105 comp?

Sounds more like a timing issue to me
Set the timing and try again
 
Re: kz550 130,120,90,105 comp?

another quick question as I have to go borrow a timing light. This is a 82 model with transitorized ignition. One, I think the guy said the IC ignitor came from a zn700, with that still work? Second my manual is only for gpz500/gpz600R there are a few differences and I'm triyng to make sure the ic igniter and pick up coils were wired correctly as I didn't do it and it's but and spliced all over. So if anyone knows if they are the same or a quick reference to wire up enough to safey test i'd appreciate it. Last but not least I ran across a threat that was saying that his ignition advance mechanisn was locked up and need to be free gently by slight tool presure after soaking in penetrent oil. but his doesnt look like mine so does the advance mechanism move freely on my model bike with pick up coils and IC ignitor?
 
Aswesome so I removed the advanced timing machnism. I don't know if it was just so tight it didnt let the one portion spin and sping back or what but I did find another oddity. Any one know if this is an attempt to put electronic timing on it? it looks like a tapped hole on the crankshaft, the guy literally put a small metal stick and wrapped alumnium foil around it and stuck it on the hole I guess a a key for the mech advance? I could use some advice as to see if its drilled correctly or how to replace if it is possible the real key looking on bikebandit {my norm for micro fiech) I can't even get a 82 gpz550 I cant get a 84gpz550 It looks like it might be part # 555?

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1984-kawasaki-gpz-550-zx550a/o/m150474#sch704067
 
Some pics

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From what I could see, the 84 had an electronic advance. It looks like the PO was missing the complete ignition system and has fitted an earlier system with mechanical advance.

First thing to do is to work out when it sparks. It has a wasted spark system so it fires every time a piston approaches TDC but in your case the mismatch may have put it miles out. It could be as simple as being 180 degrees out at the crank. First remove all 4 spark plugs and rotate it by hand and determine when it reaches the point at which the steel/magnet on the rotor passes the pick up on the plate.

If there's a mismatch between the width of the slot in the ATU (automatic timing unit) and the crank, you will need a custom machined drive pin. If both are the same, get a roll pin from the hardware store.

Seeing the red goop between the crankcase halves, anything is possible.
 
yeah, I figured a well used bike would have a rebuild or so but I've never seen red gasket sealant. but this thing has sat in the weather so long ever cable is useless. master cylinder is busted. ect ect. I'll get to work on the suggested procedures in an hr or so thanks teazer. oh and I'm sorry the bike I'm working on is titled as an 82 which is why I'm having so much troublr looking up parts carbs and everything was not matching up.
 
From what I have been able to determine so far, 80 and 81 both came with electronic ignition with mechanical advancer - similar to the unit you have there. 82 was a major change with more complicated electronics but looks like it kept the mechanical ATU. 84 was the change to swoopy body style and electronic advance.

The question is what year is the chassis and the engine? Is it an 82 chassis with 84 engine that was cobbled together? That may explain some of the mysteries.
 
Coils might be wired up the wrong way if it's giving you big backfires (IE swap the coils over).

Although, the dodgy key pin in the advancer would indicate this one's been hobbled together - possibly badly.
 
That looks like it may be an 84 motor in an 82 frame but I'm no expert on KHI (Kawasaki Heavy Industries) engine numbers.

What size are the carbs? 84 had CV carbs from TK where earlier 550s had 22mm slide TKs IIRC
 
As it won't start without fluid I'm guessing the carbs are not clean, apart from the other issues
 
Crazypj: I'm not an expert but i've clean a few carbs, they werent bad but I did remove some crud and had to find some fine wire to clear out the pilots as no light could be seen through the smaller ones. starter fluid mist will make it pop once or twice but thats it. one time I had it running for about 40 seconds of small mist of starter fluid but nothing since removinf the advance timing mech. I didn'tsee anything special about pulling or putting it back on, specially since it's keyed.


Do you mean swap the spark plug coils? becuase I can't swap the pickup coils atleast not physically they only go on one way and the wiring matches up with the spliced ends.


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carbs are Tk's but I'm not sure if you measure the throat to get the size?
what I'm finding though is the 22 tk's had a rectangular style top and mine have a flat round top.
 
Those are the CV style TKs fitted to later bikes and probably belong to that engine. Do you have workshop manual? They are available on line in pdf format for download.

Pull all the jets and clean them out by soaking or use an ultrasonic cleaner. Poking wire through them tends to change their size and flow rate. Then soak the bodies and blow through all the tiny drillings with a can of carb cleaner.
 
Teazer, I pretty much did that, I used very fine wire strands and lots of carb cleaner to break through, times like this I always wished I'd bought a cleaning kit, but never do. I used my compressor to clean all airways after having it soaked in cleaner. I wish I cold get a timing light to see if that my problem but I didn't realize they cost $40 bucks for a base model, and my freind apparently let his get crushed in his last move, although I like to add to my diagnostic tool collection I hate spending money on a machine i'm selling or trading kinda eats away at the funds I wanted to put toward an actual desired project. The only manual I have is for 84+ gpz500 and 600R came with the bike when I picked it up as a simi basket case.
 
Also I did find the pdf file and downloaded last week which is why I said I saw nothing special about removing and reinstalling pickup coil plate.
 
Search on line and find a manual. They are out there. I remember digging one up a couple of years ago and it took a while to find, but they are out there.

You can probably rent a timing light from your local Autozone/Pep boys/O'Reilly's etc for next to zilch.
 
Nope tried, autozone doesn't rent them anymore thats when I was shocked after asking what the cheapest one would be, they are behind the counter like a high theft item or something.
in the manuals I found the transitorized bikes really have no adjustment it just says remove and inspect then resinstall. which makes sense since there is not adjustment of the coil plate all but one of the three mounting screws have no slot for adjustment. I almost wish it was points as that would be a simple adjust ment but I'd still need a light, dang it I guess I'll have to buy one I'll need it down the road or the SR250 I picked up anyways PO said he thinks it jumped timing.
 
You need to get the sheared timing pin out.
That is going to be VERY DIFFICULT as it's hardened (had to do several GS500, they shear regular when doing tappets without removing spark plugs, your's probably got broken the same way?)
 
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