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Any ideals one what to use, a special bit? I'd hate to try and drill in and have it walk into the crank. I never have any luck with the gator bits I've tried mutiple times on these little chinese engine my cousins/nephews bring me to work on, always an exhuast stud or something thats steel inside an aluminum/soft metal case I maybe get one of three out. ( yeah they all have some kinda cheap chinese scooter or atv I get suckered into working on).
Now I get it PJ. The stock hardened pin has sheared off and that's why the po came up with that shall we say unusual looking pin drive. If it were mine, I'd drill a hole 180 degrees out and either rotate the rotor 180 degrees on the timing adjuster or not bother because it's symmetrical. Measure 3 times and drill once though.
On a stock bike there is no need for a timing light because there's nothing to adjust. If it fires it's right. This bike is a bit of a hybrid/mongrel though and needs to work out exactly were it is firing. It's a later model engine in an earlier chassis with a much earlier/different ignition system. Sp it's important work out what is going on.
That red goop is a worry too. Maybe it would be a good idea to strip the motor and clean it up and see what's up on the inside. The problem with that approach is that you may not like what you see when you get in there.
Looking back at a few notes I took (i buy alot of basket cases and dual bike deals when the price is right, so i make some notes to remeber when I get a chance to work on it) PO said he put the 84 LTD KZ550 carbs on the GPz after they were reuildt since it was closer to running (kz550 had a busted kickshift rod hole), I picked up an LTD 550 1984 and GPz550 together, Gpz needed an in ic ignitor (but he so happend to have just got one from a Zn700 but had no ideal if it was any good since the wiring was "kinda weird" in his words. (which as I found meant all spliced to hell and back). So I'm calling the guy I sold the KZ LTD to and see if he wants to switch carbs since I beleive he has the older ones plus I've found alot of documentation on them if they are te tk22's. I may do the drill it out 180 deal should I tap it or leave for smooth rolled pin?
Wow crazypj I knew I seen that name somewhere when I first starting reading a few of the build threads I will definitely be pm'ing you if I even get a chance to start breaking down my cl360 and maybe cb450 engines I picked up.
Drill it to take either a roll pin or a big end roller. It all depends on what you have available. Our local Ace Hardware store has roll pins.
If you are not 110% accurate you may have to slot the pickup plate to allow it to rotate to the correct position relative to the rotor. You could also slip a DYNA rotor on and use a DYNA S set of pickups and toss the VN/KZ/GPZ bits in a box to go to your next local electronics recycling event.
Well kind of kills the whole get it running in little as possible budget. the Dyna S that is unless somene knows where I can get a complete set cheap, I'm finding new ones just the pick ups for 300 thought I hit gold when I found a dual fire one with coils new or 139 then I read it was only for HDs
as long as you have decent coils, all you need is the DYNA S conversion. I haven't checked for a while but used is fine and price is better. New they are on ebay at around $120 and there's a Dyna 111 for $75 used
with the Dyna three it will just elminate the possiblity of the IC ignitor being bad right? Still have to drill a hole in crankshaft. so the Ds32-1 will fit the gpz 550? everything I'm looking a says it needs the D32-2?
Dyna S does not use an external ignitor box, so that's another YES situation.
Does yours need a DS32-3 or a 32-1? I didn't stop to check. I was looking for cheap where you could modify the backing plate, but getting one that drops straight in would save work. For sure. I'm a cheapskate and regularly buy used DYNA parts and modify the backing plates or take modules off and fit them to a modified points plate or modify the backing plate to make it work on another bike. I tend to forget that not everyone is as perverse as I am.
I can and have no fear of modifying what ever I just don't have any machinest tools other then a drill and dremel. I know I get really discouraged or jealous at the beautiful builds and one off parts from guys who have a small or large machine shop or are that guy who has a buddy who will do 1K worth of machinest work for a pack of beer on a saturday night type thing. It says the D232-1 was for 900-100kz and the 32-2 is for the kz550-650 from another site. And I understand it's a self contained system, I was just asking if itstill needed to be drilled out (crankshaft) which I'm guessing yes since it will still need to be keyed to TDC. I could prob dedicate 80-90 if it got it running again normally easier to sale that way or who knows I hear this engine grows on ya, but I really want to work on the cb450 and sr250 full bikes I got a while back and start a complete rebuild on a cl360 engine only I picked up.
if it's not the love of your life, I think just sell it as is and get to work on something you want to work on. After the ignition is fixed, the carbs will probably need work and jetting and that's another pile of cash. If the motor isn't perfect, where does it all end?
If that was the project bike that you really want to be perfect it would be a difference story. How much does it owe you, or how much do you need to get out of it? Throw up a picture and a price and see if you can liquidate the asset so you can save your cash.
I could ask the guy I sold the KZltd550 to and see. but I have no way of knowing if it actually works. I may just part it out I was just hoping to get a few hundred out of it. I may be able to do that through ebay but I hate how long it takes plus the time to catalog everything, here in florida a running bike easly goes for 600-700 doesn't matter what it is as long as it has a title and runs. so i'd be happy with half that.
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