Latest project - Suzonda WTF200/2 in progress

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Finally, the correct metal arrived, I'd ordered the wrong size for the job of making the U bracket that I'd intended to use at the caliper mount end of the brake torque arm.

I cut n drill later, with a bit of bench sanding and tweaking saw the torque arm coming together as I'd planned.....very satisfying.





The bones of it is M10 threading, into a female M10 rose joint at the swingarm end with a thin-wall 10mm i'd steel tube to give it a better look than bare threading..
The rear mount is shaped 30x50mm 3m box section and bolted through the caliper mount using a longer than stock M8 bolt straight out the other side with a lock nut....should hold it correctly I reckon.

Anyone think differently? I'd welcome any critique.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
The detailing continues.....

Reverse action m/c works for the rear and heel protector will work to I reckon....



Lever seats needed a freshen up...







Rear braided line routed..

 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Bit more done...small jobs that take time etc.

Tank is now mounted, using modified common doorstops for the front and a modified exhaust hanger and innertube bands for the rear. It'll sit nicely just 2-3mm off the frame rail and align with the seat unit once I've glassed in the timber spacers.
The angle make it look more misaligned than it is.





The seat unit is coming along, used the CBX subframe bridge as a centre support and formed 'shoes' for the bridge feet to sit in, this should resist sideways and fore n aft movement while riding. I'm seeing if I can lash it down using over-centre latches...or a tie strap under the subframe? Again, I've used a bath support leg as the rear end support...make do and mend.






I'll sort a better, more supportive rubber, that's just a lump of yoga mat for mock up

Managed to shoehorn the alloy oil tank into the redundant airfilter box, a cut n slice her n there had it sitting snugly...I'll clamp the sides using a double jubilee clip arrangement as I might need to remove the tank at some point.







Sight gauge just fitted through the air outlet oval which is how I hoped it would work, pleased with that.



Rear light position?
Tucked?


which returns this issue...



Or slightly not tucked?



..which means the lights can be seen up close



I think I prefer the non tucked position, also it doesn't mean a seat mount but a subframe mount, so I can remove the seat without disconnecting the lights.

That's about it for now....a good few more parts incoming...:)
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
Nice work and detail as always. I have a shitload of Rose joints left over from my car manufacturing days - so my torque arm is getting those .... overkill, but other wise going to the grave with me !! Pic is of the adjustable unit I developed for the BMW Oilhead and Kay Paralever range.

I came up with the same lighting solution for my XR seat base when the KZ started out life to be a Flat Tracker. Funny I tripped over it in the shed the other day when I was looking for my tub of filler to fettle the 7R seat base !! I used the "Shotgun" double light unit for mine.
 

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NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Nice work and detail as always. I have a shitload of Rose joints left over from my car manufacturing days - so my torque arm is getting those .... overkill, but other wise going to the grave with me !! Pic is of the adjustable unit I developed for the BMW Oilhead and Kay Paralever range.

I came up with the same lighting solution for my XR seat base when the KZ started out life to be a Flat Tracker. Funny I tripped over it in the shed the other day when I was looking for my tub of filler to fettle the 7R seat base !! I used the "Shotgun" double light unit for mine.
The RamShox kit is nicely done.....mine's a shed copy based on M10 threaded bar, steel thin-wall sleeve, M10 female rose joint and a U bracket made from 50x30x2.5mm box section suitably chopped into shape and held together with stainless nuts. :)

I've had a set back on the lights....the reg plate looks awful up high, and not much better lower down either.....hmmm? Not how I saw it working out tbh.....a rethunk is in order ;)
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
I had a problem getting my # plate high enough on the bracket to clear the tyre on full compression. In the end I used a very slightly [ ! ] illegal 7" x 5" plate. The plate was also " my mudguard officer" !! As you know, the number plate can be remote to your light unit as long as it has some illumination ..... not an issue for me as I'm going for a "daylight" MOT. There WILL be a suitably disguised brake light for self preservation.

Also, there is a requirement for the rear light to be able to be viewed at 45 degrees from the rear which is why I used the Shotgun light as it's deeper than the one you are using. Among all the other infringements on my bike - that was really the least of my worries !
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
I had a problem getting my # plate high enough on the bracket to clear the tyre on full compression. In the end I used a very slightly [ ! ] illegal 7" x 5" plate. The plate was also " my mudguard officer" !! As you know, the number plate can be remote to your light unit as long as it has some illumination ..... not an issue for me as I'm going for a "daylight" MOT. There WILL be a suitably disguised brake light for self preservation.

Also, there is a requirement for the rear light to be able to be viewed at 45 degrees from the rear which is why I used the Shotgun light as it's deeper than the one you are using. Among all the other infringements on my bike - that was really the least of my worries !
Thanx beachy....I was concerned the 'tucked' poistion would hide too much and obscure visibility from certain viewing angles, I don't mind skirting around the legalities, but not so much to draw needless hassle for the sake of looks.

I've no finalised the position, trimmed the plate (which will be black/white) and 5x7 as I have a 7 digit reg. The CBX plate is the same size and looks OK.



I've rethought the seat unit securing method, ditching the overcentre latches, far too fiddly, in favour of a single Dzus twist n turn fastener attaching to the bridge support bracket through the top of the seat unit.....not as smooth as I wanted, but it'll look in keeping and kinda cool. :)

Dzus.jpg
I fancy making a fixed washer/keeper and wiring the Dzus...comp stylee.

Fibreglass kit incoming aling with h/d exhaust clamps which I hope will work for the exhaust/barrel extension I need.

If I introduce a slight curve to the plate that may help too.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Tank's away to be vapor-blasted.
Trimmer is jacked up for this week. Williams F1 team blue suede will do me nicely :)
Fibreglass kit is in....
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Love it when a plan works out.....a cut n shut has the oil tank nestled in the redundant Honda airbox....glove like.

A quick coating of Wurth rust converter has it looking cleaner and the rubber trim covers the cut edges.
The ear defender foam came in handy too.

. 20200426_180236.jpg20200426_180247.jpg20200426_180254.jpg20200426_173233.jpg20200426_174214.jpg
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Fork brace/guard mount...phase1. I'd love a Micron billet alloy brace, but budget means I have to bash the old CBX mount into shape.

IMG-20200428-WA0008.jpeg
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Tank etched



Fuel cap seal replaced (tricky) and cleaned up...





Headlamp upgraded to a Koito H4 unit....I'll probably run LED to reduce the loading.


Nice and bright reflector and glass.....should work well too?



The overall look is coming together :)
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
Yes - fibreglassing !!! I'm just back into that phase now.

My pal - lovely fella, is not familiar with fibreglassing - last thing he made was a canoe at school ....1950's. Where he glassed in the brackets to mount the dummy Manx tank cover he just slapped on the matt / resin - more's better right ? Needless to say the curing process "pulled" the once flat sides of the tank into a 1/2" depression ! Flat - yes I know they were flat because I spent a week prepping the tank prior to him taking it to his garage. Ditto the belly tank fairing - but much worse.

I'm no two stroke fan - but I love the project and workmanship / lateral thinking.

Best compliment I can pay is to say it looks like a "factory" bike.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Yes - fibreglassing !!! I'm just back into that phase now.

My pal - lovely fella, is not familiar with fibreglassing - last thing he made was a canoe at school ....1950's. Where he glassed in the brackets to mount the dummy Manx tank cover he just slapped on the matt / resin - more's better right ? Needless to say the curing process "pulled" the once flat sides of the tank into a 1/2" depression ! Flat - yes I know they were flat because I spent a week prepping the tank prior to him taking it to his garage. Ditto the belly tank fairing - but much worse.

I'm no two stroke fan - but I love the project and workmanship / lateral thinking.

Best compliment I can pay is to say it looks like a "factory" bike.
I think the resin/catalyst is stronger and more potent than it appears, shame the piece was ruined.

I'm chuffed with your comment tbh and thank you.

More progress below.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
The 'glassing went well enough, good job it's under the seat unit.
I did spend time rubbing down the cut edge, seen too many nice paint jobs ruined, IMO, by an unfinished edge.



It'll all be painted and I'll ask my sprayer mate to pay attention to the edges.

Tank dents filled and ready for paint. OEM petcock installed and no leaks.....washed out the vapor blast media and sqilled paraffin around to protect the metal and check for leaks....none found yay.

I treated myself to a Micron fork brace



Knocked up a headlight mounting tab to use with 2x stainless P clips.



The GT200 engine is now installed to align drive sprockets....they do align nicely.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
I've been involved with GRP all my working life designing and manufacturing Replica cars [ Porsche, Cobra, Jag .... ] and am totally familiar with the issues involved. You are quite right to pay attention to the "unseen" edges, failure to do that has spoiled many otherwise nice projects.

Another worthwhile tip if wetness [ water ] is involved during daily use - either flow coat the "hairy" side or spray with rubberised paint eg bumper paint. Bumper paint is ideal as it can then be sprayed in any colour you want - Satin Black in my case.

I used to spray all the undersides of my replica car bodies in similar material to avoid any possibility of hygroscapy forming minute paint blisters at a later date.

Love the fork brace BTW !
 

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