Latest project - Suzonda WTF200/2 in progress

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Beachy....OK i get what you're saying about sealing the hairy underside....I have Wurth stonechip, which is a good adhesion, underside body protector...would this work? I think it will and could well provide a smoother paint surface than glass alone.....think I'll give it a squirt. Thank you.

I'm getting used to the brace....trying to install a front guard, but might wait until I have the tyre I want to use mounted, so I get the running gap nice n tight.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
Beachy....done it, one good coat of WURTH stonechip...then I'll add a white primer coat. Cheers
It's that attention to detail that sets it off. I was the only major manufacturer of replicas that coated the "hairy" side of my bodies. Eventually my pal in Germany [ Mk6 AC Cobra ] was persuaded to adopt this method.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
I was just watching the Car SOS out of your neck of the woods and they did a Lotus with a glass body, no coating under an it had hydro damage like you talk about. took a lot of elbow grease to sort the body and get it back to good, but they didn't coat the back side to prevent it occuring again. Need to send Fuzz a little note on that LOL.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
It was actually a tip I got many years ago from a boat building buddy and I incorporated it into all my commercially produced replica car bodies. And believe it or not it was after repairing the hygroscopy damage to the paint on a Lotus Elan !! Flow coating is an alternative, but much more expensive than rubberised paint and the paint does the same job with half the effort and cost.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
That's the tyres off the wheels and the wheels are now with Mr Powdercoat - RAL9010 Satin white....should be ready next week.

More wiring to do... :/
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Nice, those wheels should look excellent in white, if you can keep them clean LOL
I think so. Deliberated long and hard over the final colour, white could be too garish, but on a comp bike it's almost expected and not uncommon. I don't do black, so only the silver/alloy option which is a bit safe tbh.

As the rest of the bodywork is to be the same 9010 white, but gloss, I think it'll look suitably comp enough to carry the overall style...a few select decals and the badges I have had made up should finish it off nicely.

Thanx for your continued interest.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Battery is in, nice n snug. Son calling in Saturday (family visit - distancing obeyed) to sort the wiring as I think I have everything I need.



Waiting on wheels and trimmer to get back to me. My painter mate is dragging his heels...no rush so no sweat...yet.
 

NoRiders

Well-Known Member
Update: Wheels turned out nice, so forwarded the RAL code 9010 to my sprayer mate who duly shot the paint.....came out a lovely finish....shame the white was a different shade to the wheels!!

Turned out the powder guy gave me the wrong RAL code, he'd actually used 9003 Signal white....bugger. He's admitted fault and offered a 100% refund.....my sprayer mate can respray in the next 2-3 weeks.

Tyres on and front bolted up.....only brakes to bleed now.



Even though I'm gutted about the paint fiasco, I couldn't resist throwing the bodywork on...



Adding the blue seat pad, decals and stripes will be exciting.

Got to push to fire the engine up.



Carbs on, fuel tested, coil mounted and sparking, engine spins over on the starter button (needs connecting to the loom) so I'm close. Need to source oils.
 

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