New DTT member 360T build

kagraves

Member
Update I had a welder try to fix my cracked fender, it lasted all of about 20 min and broke the weld. So I took an angle grinder and chopped the front half off, I'll get some picks of the turn out. In the process my speedo cable broke of the bottom connector at the wheel. FML...

Does anyone have one they are willing to part with, supposedly the 350, 360 abd 450 are the same cable...

Took a compression test the other day with my newly acquired harbor freight compression test kit. 105 psi left side and 110 psi right, put a tablespoon of oil in each and had an increase of 10 psi for both. Do my winter project will be installing new rings. And a valve lapping for safe measure. Everyone is apart I'll do a complete polishing of the cases and get get looking better than new.

Also need to get a headlight that accepts an H4 bulb that fits the stock bucket/new bucket with H4 bulb that is close to stock looking, and new carb seals cause I'm getting a bunch of gas deposits sound the bowls recently and ik the gaskets were in need of replacing sooner or later. Me tires will also be on the long list of parts for next season.
 

frogman

'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Harbor freight compression testers are known to be low reading on small engines. As long as the bike idles well and runs well and doesn't burn oil badly I would leave it alone. My 360 reads out at around those same numbers with my harbor freight gauge and runs just fine.

Just get a new speedo cable, they are available online for not much money, I think I paid 15$ delivered for the one on my bike.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
kagraves said:
Update I had a welder try to fix my cracked fender, it lasted all of about 20 min and broke the weld. So I took an angle grinder and chopped the front half off, I'll get some picks of the turn out. In the process my speedo cable broke of the bottom connector at the wheel. FML...

Does anyone have one they are willing to part with, supposedly the 350, 360 abd 450 are the same cable...

Took a compression test the other day with my newly acquired harbor freight compression test kit. 105 psi left side and 110 psi right, put a tablespoon of oil in each and had an increase of 10 psi for both. Do my winter project will be installing new rings. And a valve lapping for safe measure. Everyone is apart I'll do a complete polishing of the cases and get get looking better than new.
You did have throttle wide open?
 

kagraves

Member
Ya I just saw that the cables are cheap online. The bike rides fine, blows some smoke now and then. Mostly had a lot of smoke from the breather hose.

I'm going to try and hook up to a known pressure source to test the reading of my tester.

And throttle was wide open, using electric start to turn it over
 
kagraves said:
Update I had a welder try to fix my cracked fender, it lasted all of about 20 min and broke the weld. So I took an angle grinder and chopped the front half off, I'll get some picks of the turn out. In the process my speedo cable broke of the bottom connector at the wheel. FML...

Does anyone have one they are willing to part with, supposedly the 350, 360 abd 450 are the same cable...

Took a compression test the other day with my newly acquired harbor freight compression test kit. 105 psi left side and 110 psi right, put a tablespoon of oil in each and had an increase of 10 psi for both. Do my winter project will be installing new rings. And a valve lapping for safe measure. Everyone is apart I'll do a complete polishing of the cases and get get looking better than new.

Also need to get a headlight that accepts an H4 bulb that fits the stock bucket/new bucket with H4 bulb that is close to stock looking, and new carb seals cause I'm getting a bunch of gas deposits sound the bowls recently and ik the gaskets were in need of replacing sooner or later. Me tires will also be on the long list of parts for next season.
I might have a cable from my CB360. I'll check tonight. If I have it, you can have it for the price of postage.
 

kagraves

Member
So I'm having oil coming out of the breather hose and covering my rear tire I oil. I checked the breather gasket and it's in great shape. Took the side cover of to clean it out and do an oil change and it looks to be in great shape. Re filled with rotella diesel oil to the 1.5 lt that the manual states and the dip stick doesn't even touch oil. Had to add about another 1/4 lt to get it to register. I'm wondering if at some point the dipstick was switched and is shorter than stock making my bike to have to much oil and coming out the breather hose. Could someone with a stock CB360 measure the length of their dipstick (just the stick portion).

Any other thoughts from fellow 360 owners?

Also my rear tire is completely flat this morning. I need new tires anyway. Wondering if tubeless tires can be used on the stock rims or should I get tires and tubes.

And when I took the exhaust of realized it's been in two pieces since I've owned it. The coupler was broken off the muffler to the header. But brought it to a weld shop and had it fixed for $20.
 

trek97

No Custom Title
DTT BOTM WINNER
360 uses 2.1 quarts. Leaking rings could be building pressure in the crankcase. Blowing the oil out.
 

kagraves

Member
I'M BACK!

It’s been a long time but I'm finally back at it. Last week I completely ripped the bike apart to get to the cause of my blowing oil issue, the lowish compression, poor fuel economy, and tires that were too dangerous to roll down the road. Started the rebuild with new rim strips, tubes, and a set of stock size Avon Roadriders. Ripped the engine down to replace the rings and found that both pistons had the top rings cracked through but no damage to the cylinder walls. Replaced the rings with a new set from commonmotor.com, cleaned all the carbon buildup off the pistons, valves and cylinder head and put it all back together with new gaskets. Gaped the valves and set the timing. Replace my broken carburetor float bowl gaskets and did a quick cleanup. Flushed the gas tank and installed new petcock seals. Got the bike all put back together and with a new battery.

Trying to start the bike and all im getting is loud pops from the exhaust but it won’t fire and turn over. I’ve been following the instructions from my Clymer manual and from some youtube videos. Any tips on troubleshooting my issues would be much appreciated.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
kagraves said:
I'M BACK!

It’s been a long time but I'm finally back at it. Last week I completely ripped the bike apart to get to the cause of my blowing oil issue, the lowish compression, poor fuel economy, and tires that were too dangerous to roll down the road. Started the rebuild with new rim strips, tubes, and a set of stock size Avon Roadriders. Ripped the engine down to replace the rings and found that both pistons had the top rings cracked through but no damage to the cylinder walls. Replaced the rings with a new set from commonmotor.com, cleaned all the carbon buildup off the pistons, valves and cylinder head and put it all back together with new gaskets. Gaped the valves and set the timing. Replace my broken carburetor float bowl gaskets and did a quick cleanup. Flushed the gas tank and installed new petcock seals. Got the bike all put back together and with a new battery.

Trying to start the bike and all im getting is loud pops from the exhaust but it won’t fire and turn over. I’ve been following the instructions from my Clymer manual and from some youtube videos. Any tips on troubleshooting my issues would be much appreciated.
Swap the wires from your points.

For instance, if you have yellow to yellow and blue to blue, go blue to yellow and yellow to blue.
 

kagraves

Member
Thanks for the quick reply, switched the wires and it seems to be trying to backfire now. In the morning I think I'm going to completely take the points off and start again. Following the book to the t
 

kagraves

Member
So after troubleshooting the bike for a while I found out that my cam was installed with the rotor on the wrong stroke thus making my bike try to fire backwards. Also had the worst point gap so there was almost never a spark. Luckily it didn't for as it would have probably blown my carbs to bits.

It is back the right way now and running real good. Put 80 miles on it tonight.
 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
The points cam on advancer mechanism is the only thing that can be placed 180 degrees 'out' There are plenty of images and instructions how it should be fitted (I know because I'm the only person who ever posted them)
It isn't possible to fit the cam 180 degrees 'out', it turns at half crankshaft speed so next revolution it will be 'right'
 

kagraves

Member
Bike has been running perfect for weeks and after work today started to make weird noises. The lower pitch tick/tap

I just went over the valve gaps, point gaps, cam chain tension, it's good on oil and flowing up to the cam. Any ideas?

https://youtu.be/86qs2LoIkFQ
 

kagraves

Member
Exhaust leak???

From some searching that seems to be likely, can it do damage if I ride it?

I see some exhaust gases escape from the engine/header intersection every once and a while, but why all of a sudden the noise...
 
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