Noobie cb360...get it done dammit!

[Bobbed_out]

Thanks for the link...

 

[Bobbed_out]

Ok I feel really slow but Is there a trick to getting the center bolt off? It just turns the motor over, how do I lock it up?

 

[SONICJK]

Go over to the clutch side and wedge a penny between the clutch gears and the primary shaft gear.
Then use an impact wrench on that bolt.
Sometimes an impact will get it off without the penny as well.
And with the penny you can usually do it without the Impact.

 

[Finnigan]

Take off the bolt and use the front axle to pop it off. So similar to the things i'm doing in mine

 

[trek97]

The penny trick works great. Thats how I got mine. heres what the penny will look like when you get done...

PS do me a huge favor...when you got the penny in the gears. Snap a quick pic of it. So I can add it to my blog post for others.

 

[Bobbed_out]

So I finally had time to get to this. I followed that write up and I'm pretty sure I have removed everything needed and got it all back together. I snapped a few pics, let me know if something looks wrong before I closer it all back up!

 

[Finnigan]

Looks ok to me, are you replacing gaskets or anything? With everything off it would be an easy time to measure the clutch springs.

 

[crazypj]

where are the rollers, springs and plungers from starter clutch?
I would have removed the 3 screws at back of rotor and taken all of it off (looks like you had it apart to get shim out)
BTW, don't lock on oil pump gear, you could beak boss on crankcase, use clutch gear and primary gear

 

[trek97]

Remove the starter clutch from the back of that rotor. AND while you got the right side case open. You should open up the Filter cup w snap ring pliers and clean that out. And the screen on the oil pickup. just be careful not to tear/crack the rubber on screen.
And now would be the time to install new heavy duty clutch springs.
http://bore-tech.com/product/350-clutch-springs-cs-4

They say 350 but they also fit 360 perfectly. and are pretty inexpensive.

 

[trek97]

Thanks for the pics. I did a little photoshop on the penny.
heres the updated post including your pics.
http://www.hondabrat.com/2012/08/rotor-starter-replacement.html

 

[Bobbed_out]

Awesome! Where would I be without you guys...in case you have picked up on this yet, I have no freakin clue what I am doing...oh and trek97 thanks again for the link. Also I do have new gaskets for everything, any tips on how to remove the old bits of gasket that are still stuck to the cases? Thanks for all the help

 

[trek97]

I DONT RECOMMEND IT BUT ...
I used a scotchbrite pad.

So just use a plastic scraper or anything else you can find.

With everything being oily on yours, you wont be able to clean it good enough!!!

I DID A COMPLETE TEARDOWN AND WAS ABLE TO CLEAN EVERYTHING REALLY WELL.

JUST BE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU GET EVERYTHING CLEAN. THE SCOTCHBRITE WILL LEAVE TINY FIBERS (DUST PARTICLES) THAT WILL CLOG OIL JOURNALS. AND DESTROY STUFF.


Also, I replaced clutch disks and added the Heavy duty springs. my rpm (slipping) dropped by 500 in 6th gear at 65 mph. I didnt even know It was slipping the whole time before.

 

[Bobbed_out]

Just ordered the heavy duty springs, how hard/necessary is it to replace the disks? I want to have this thing on the road in the next couple of weeks(wishful thinking!)

 

[Finnigan]

CrazyPJ says that if the disks are still in spec to keep them, they can last 100k miles but the springs can wear sooner.

I used a razor blade scraper to get the bits off the case, then used a dab of acetone to get rid of oil before putting the new gaskets in place. While its torn down dont forget the gasket in the oil pump like I did

 

[trek97]

the springs will make all the difference. unless the disks are all burnt glazed over. Im sure they are fine. be sure you have no chunks of gasket material in there anywhere. clean and I mean clean. the journals are pretty dang small. but still you have the screen on the pickup to help filter chunks of crap also. still no need to clog it with crap if you can help it.

 

[Bobbed_out]

Ok now I think I got it all! Im having trouble finding what to torque the case bolts down to, the manual doesnt seem to say. Also got my tailight in the mail today got to make some type of bracket or something for it.

 

[Finnigan]

I don't remember there being a torque spec for the case bolts, just don't crank on them too much

 

[crazypj]

7~9ft/lbs but inch /lb is more accurate (84~96 inch/pounds)
Generic for 6mm bolt, it is in the manual, when you know where to look

 

[trek97]

The lesser values are for "lubricated" bolts. you want to use a sealant of some kind to prevent bolts galling w aluminum case threads.
Higher value for dry fit. Never use a dry bolt in aluminum.

your task includes 6mm R. L. Crankcase cover bolts, I dont remember what size the rotor on crank bolt was. Also, Im not real sure if the taper shaft fit will make a difference in torque value either. hmmm maybe something for me to look into and learn.

 

[Bobbed_out]

Ok so I have the motor all closed up. Working on body work, I freakin hate bondo! I primed everything just to see how close everything was...it's close but not perfect! I will most likely just ride it like this and finish bodywork/paint over the winter. Let me know what you guys think. I'm pretty proud of the way the seat turned out. Now I just need to work on the pad.