Powder coat or paint a frame

I don't have any trouble believing a bureaucracy could force someone to scrap a perfectly good frame for the sake of a chance to apply a rule, either correctly or incorrectly.

Then again, I've worked in bureaucracies, so perhaps I'm just too skeptical of any expectation of sanity.
 
Either way, when I have my powdercoating done I'm mailing my stuff to JRK5892, he does some amazing work and hopefully he can fix all my newb mistakes on all the parts I've tried to modify! I don't have any doubts about powdercoat after seeing all the knowledge that guy has!
 
Question: If you were going to paint a frame (not saying I am) but if you were what would the best paint be? acrylic? or just enamal?
 
Good cose-effective alternative to powder = Rustbullet Blackshell. Requires minimal frame prep and is hard as a rock & chemical resistant once set.
 
I am going to paint the frame of my 74 RD350. At this time my intentions are everything original. Been told powder coating a frame. Would be a no no for a purest. I don't have the bike tore down yet. But what parts of the frame I can see has no rust. I can spray from a gun or can. The previous post refers to Rustbullet Blackshell. Any products you all prefer?
 
Having powdercoated a frame, I would go for paint next time around and just touch-up the existing factory paint if I was restoring. Mine was a full cut and grind and weld situation and I was pretty careful to get everything I needed welded on before powder, but you can't just grind off a section, weld something on and touch up with powder like you can with paint.

Others will I'm sure chime in with suggestions on the right rattle-can product to use.
 
If concerned with original - paint. If concerned with snob appeal - powder coat. Either done properly will last well. Either done poorly will easily chip off. 2K being the best for paint, but I use Rustoleum Appliance with 2K clear over it.
 
+1 on the appliance epoxy. Tough as nails. I did engine cases with "stainless steel" about 4000 miles ago and they're holding up well!
1660327921010.png


Did my sidecar frame in the black, and it's holding up great so far.
20240421_212654.jpg
 
+1 on the appliance epoxy. Tough as nails. I did engine cases with "stainless steel" about 4000 miles ago and they're holding up well!
View attachment 240619

Did my sidecar frame in the black, and it's holding up great so far.
View attachment 240620
Beautiful bike! I was looking at the frame today. It looks to be in great condition. I didn't see any rust or nicks. I will find out when I disassemble the bike. Thanks for the info on paint.
 
If you are concerned about purists then leave the original paint. If you decide to paint it, the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is really good. I painted a Honda frame with the black Rustoleum and left it outside for an entire year about 5 years ago. It was in full sun, rain, ice, snow and whatever else nature threw at it. It still looks good.
 
If you are concerned about purists then leave the original paint. If you decide to paint it, the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is really good. I painted a Honda frame with the black Rustoleum and left it outside for an entire year about 5 years ago. It was in full sun, rain, ice, snow and whatever else nature threw at it. It still looks good.
I've used their appliance epoxy paint many times and have always been very happy w/ the results. The shame is that they only make it in black, white, off-white, and stainless steel colors. It lays down and covers well, is forgiving, and as @Rider52 said, holds up very well. The black and white are easy enough to find but the last time I bought the stainless steel I had to order a case of six cans.
 
If you are concerned about purists then leave the original paint. If you decide to paint it, the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is really good. I painted a Honda frame with the black Rustoleum and left it outside for an entire year about 5 years ago. It was in full sun, rain, ice, snow and whatever else nature threw at it. It still looks good.
Thanks for the info.
 
I've used their appliance epoxy paint many times and have always been very happy w/ the results. The shame is that they only make it in black, white, off-white, and stainless steel colors. It lays down and covers well, is forgiving, and as @Rider52 said, holds up very well. The black and white are easy enough to find but the last time I bought the stainless steel I had to order a case of six cans.
Thanks
 
What is the best way to replace wheels?
I thought buy some used wheels and then have them chromed and laced. The chroming of the 2 wheels was 1600.00.
What do most members do here?
 
What is the best way to replace wheels?
I thought buy some used wheels and then have them chromed and laced. The chroming of the 2 wheels was 1600.00.
What do most members do here?

I've often bought rims from MikesXS, if you happen to find the matching spoke count etc. You need to consider spoke count and the hub diameter. A rim made for a wheel with a large drum brake hub has different spoke angles than one made for a smaller diameter hub carrying a brake rotor.

For example - 19" 36 hole rim which I imagine would fit the front wheel just fine on your RD350 - appear to be out of stock, but you get the idea of what's out there. They have them in-stock in black for $48.

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-h-1-85-x-19-x-36-hole-shouldered-rim-aluminum-oem-94418-19145-00-for-reference-only.html

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...ck-oem-94418-19145-00-for-reference-only.html

They don't seem to have 18" in the 'shouldered' style, but they do have a variety of sizes in the more traditional, original looking 'WM' profile albeit for more money.

https://www.mikesxs.net/wheel-rim-wm-multiple-sizes-36-spoke-aluminum-universal-silver.html

For spokes, I've always bought from Buchanan's. Stainless spokes and nipples are around $100/wheel and they will custom make them specific to the rim and hub combination. They just need to know the rim diameter (19, 18 etc.) and the hub you're using to determine the right length and angle of the spokes.

Then I've usually paid $50/wheel to have them laced by a local guy who did a bunch of work for the vintage racers in the area. Your local bicycle shop might be able to do them or you can tackle it yourself (I'd pay personally).

So for about $140 (rim) + $100 (spokes) + $50 (lacing) per wheel you can have effectively new wheels. Replace the wheel bearings while you're at it.
 
I used the MikesXS rims on my cafe racer and rode it to 100+ MPH often with no concerns.

20121006_134003.jpg
 
Personally, I like to collect Takasago high shoulder alloy or DID alloy from swap meets and restore them for my builds, then buy spoke sets from Buchanan to match my hubs and build them myself. You can also send your hubs to Buchanan and have them build your wheels. Spoke sets are around $125 and rims depending from $150 for a DID or Akront alloy or $174 for Mandapp chrome steel, or $300 plus for Borrani, Excel or Sun alloy.
 
I've often bought rims from MikesXS, if you happen to find the matching spoke count etc. You need to consider spoke count and the hub diameter. A rim made for a wheel with a large drum brake hub has different spoke angles than one made for a smaller diameter hub carrying a brake rotor.

For example - 19" 36 hole rim which I imagine would fit the front wheel just fine on your RD350 - appear to be out of stock, but you get the idea of what's out there. They have them in-stock in black for $48.

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-h-1-85-x-19-x-36-hole-shouldered-rim-aluminum-oem-94418-19145-00-for-reference-only.html

https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...ck-oem-94418-19145-00-for-reference-only.html

They don't seem to have 18" in the 'shouldered' style, but they do have a variety of sizes in the more traditional, original looking 'WM' profile albeit for more money.

https://www.mikesxs.net/wheel-rim-wm-multiple-sizes-36-spoke-aluminum-universal-silver.html

For spokes, I've always bought from Buchanan's. Stainless spokes and nipples are around $100/wheel and they will custom make them specific to the rim and hub combination. They just need to know the rim diameter (19, 18 etc.) and the hub you're using to determine the right length and angle of the spokes.

Then I've usually paid $50/wheel to have them laced by a local guy who did a bunch of work for the vintage racers in the area. Your local bicycle shop might be able to do them or you can tackle it yourself (I'd pay personally).

So for about $140 (rim) + $100 (spokes) + $50 (lacing) per wheel you can have effectively new wheels. Replace the wheel bearings while you're at it.
Thanks Tim
 
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