Powder coat or polish CB450 Build!
- Thread starter Zonda
- Start date
Well I'm back and will start on the 450 next week! ;D The home jobs kept me busy for the last few months and the only contact with my scoots have been riding to work 
. I spent the last couple of months turing my second garage into a self contained unit, up until now it's been a junk storage room, so this and $$ plus 7 weeks solid of my labour, I only farmed out the Elect (legal), Floor (needed for warranty) and tiles, i hate laying tiles the rest i did my self with the help from a mate for the difficult jobs.
became this
And my Garage which could normally fit my car and all my bike + projects looks like a shit fight
So this weekend will see the place cleaned up and room for the car and bikes made, and then onto the projects
. I spent the last couple of months turing my second garage into a self contained unit, up until now it's been a junk storage room, so this and $$ plus 7 weeks solid of my labour, I only farmed out the Elect (legal), Floor (needed for warranty) and tiles, i hate laying tiles the rest i did my self with the help from a mate for the difficult jobs.
became this
And my Garage which could normally fit my car and all my bike + projects looks like a shit fight
So this weekend will see the place cleaned up and room for the car and bikes made, and then onto the projects
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
Glad your better. Hopefully the extra unit will bring you some income to spend on the 450.
Well the engine is finished ;D complete with the rare and elusive Black Bomber six spring clutch
Now onto the rest picket up a pair of Koni shocks that have been sitting for some time the chrome springs/seats etc are in great nick but the insides needs new oil etc so on to the rebuild table for some light work ;D
Rod From OZ
Now onto the rest
picket up a pair of Koni shocks that have been sitting for some time the chrome springs/seats etc are in great nick but the insides needs new oil etc so on to the rebuild table for some light work ;DRod From OZ
philos1 said:
Sorry mate no leads on the fined bits, just found them on EvilBay and brought them. The finned stator covers come up from time to time but i have only seen the point covers twice.
Thanks for the encouragement ;D Man do i need a kick in the butt every now and then to keep thing on track :
Rod from OZ 8)
NOT HAPPY
Ok gent what's the trick in fitting roller bearings to the headstock!! The pyramid bearing are correct so they say, but the top bearing sits clear of the headstock, this i can live with ??? but the bottom one is just no going to make me happy.
To fit the bottom weather seal and the bottom race leaves the seal free floating!
The total depth of the headstock recess is 17.5mm
The bearing is 13.50mm in depth
The weather seal support/lower ball race and washer is 10.5
Quick maths 10.5 + 13.5 = 24mm
This means the weather seal sits around 2.5 proud of the headstock recess (6.5 in total) ???
What have others done? Ground the weather seal/ball race down by 6.5mm?
or is there something so obvious that i can't just see it :
photos to help jog your memory
Ok gent what's the trick in fitting roller bearings to the headstock!! The pyramid bearing are correct so they say, but the top bearing sits clear of the headstock, this i can live with ??? but the bottom one is just no going to make me happy.
To fit the bottom weather seal and the bottom race leaves the seal free floating!
The total depth of the headstock recess is 17.5mm
The bearing is 13.50mm in depth
The weather seal support/lower ball race and washer is 10.5
Quick maths 10.5 + 13.5 = 24mm
This means the weather seal sits around 2.5 proud of the headstock recess (6.5 in total) ???
What have others done? Ground the weather seal/ball race down by 6.5mm?
or is there something so obvious that i can't just see it :
photos to help jog your memory
Sorry to go so far back in your post (and unfortunately not offer any help with the current issue) But I am working on a battery for my bike. I want to understand something. According to the info that you shared and how you got your 12v 18a battery from 6-2v 2.5a batteries; I should be okay if I take 2- 6v 4.5a sealed lead batteries and connect the neg from batt 1 to the pos from batt 2 to link them together and use the empty pos to run to the wiring harness and the empty neg to run as the ground for a battery that becomes 12v 9a, right?
Thanks for your help. You have an amazing build, keep up the good work.
Thanks for your help. You have an amazing build, keep up the good work.
Zonda said:NOT HAPPY
Ok gent what's the trick in fitting roller bearings to the headstock!! The pyramid bearing are correct so they say, but the top bearing sits clear of the headstock, this i can live with ??? but the bottom one is just no going to make me happy.
To fit the bottom weather seal and the bottom race leaves the seal free floating!
The total depth of the headstock recess is 17.5mm
The bearing is 13.50mm in depth
The weather seal support/lower ball race and washer is 10.5
Quick maths 10.5 + 13.5 = 24mm
This means the weather seal sits around 2.5 proud of the headstock recess (6.5 in total) ???
What have others done? Ground the weather seal/ball race down by 6.5mm?
or is there something so obvious that i can't just see it :
From the photos it looks like you are trying to use the tapered bearing race AND the ball bearing race together ??
Thanks all for your comments on the bearings ;D found out that generally they leave the weather seal off and the spacing is "what it is". This off couse is not up to my standard so ill be making a 4mm support for weather seal and to ensure the triples sit as Honda intended to :
Rod from OZ 8)
Rod from OZ 8)
Ok i last touched the front in Dec last year so here's an update and how to
Drilling disk's, this can be done and has been a way to cool the brake's ever since disks were used (Mercedes Benz 300SL the first modern disk).
Just a bit of theory first, what you are trying to achieve is to cool the brake pads, as this is where brake fad starts the pads get to hot and loose their effective grip, so if we can cool the disk then the pads can transfer the heat to the disk and cool more effectively, hence better brakes.
So where to start, the pattern ;D which is completely up to you but needs to be uniform and balanced. The easiest way is to use a "degree" wheel template i found this one on the net at http://www.machinerycleanery.com/DWUniversal.htm
print this out at the size as your disk and start designing i used three rings and 18 holes with the rings offset buy 20mm, so were each degree intersects the ring is the where the hole goes OK Or if you are a geek head do the whole thing on the computer and print out!! mine need to be printed on A3 paper so luckily i could do this at work ;D
Ok now you have the template cut it out and very carefully glue it to the disk accuracy is essential here as the disk need to be balanced for obvious reasons.
Now center/pop mark your holes and get ready for the fun.
Right if you're drilling early CB Honda disks then they will be made from high grade 1/2 hard stainless steel. ie bloody hard ;D so you will need to get good quality drills,
I used Cobalt drill bits in 4,6,8mm designed for cutting hard metals these have a dual angle cutting head thats works great and stays sharp if treated right. Remember that you will not be able to drill straight through using the 8mm bit, so start with the 4mm and work up to 8mm and always use a coolant or a lubricant (oil) if not then those $20 bits will be F@#Ked in no time
Use a drill press so that the holes are at right angles to the disk face
If the drill starts to squeal then the cutting tip has become dull and wont cut sawdust
Ok when finished SHALLOW de-bur the holes with a good quality counter sinking bit and all's good to go
Rod from OZ 8)
Drilling disk's, this can be done and has been a way to cool the brake's ever since disks were used (Mercedes Benz 300SL the first modern disk).
Just a bit of theory first, what you are trying to achieve is to cool the brake pads, as this is where brake fad starts the pads get to hot and loose their effective grip, so if we can cool the disk then the pads can transfer the heat to the disk and cool more effectively, hence better brakes.
So where to start, the pattern ;D which is completely up to you but needs to be uniform and balanced. The easiest way is to use a "degree" wheel template i found this one on the net at http://www.machinerycleanery.com/DWUniversal.htm
print this out at the size as your disk and start designing i used three rings and 18 holes with the rings offset buy 20mm, so were each degree intersects the ring is the where the hole goes OK
Or if you are a geek head do the whole thing on the computer and print out!! mine need to be printed on A3 paper so luckily i could do this at work ;D
Ok now you have the template
cut it out and very carefully glue it to the disk accuracy is essential here as the disk need to be balanced for obvious reasons.
Now center/pop mark your holes and get ready for the fun.
Right if you're drilling early CB Honda disks then they will be made from high grade 1/2 hard stainless steel. ie bloody hard ;D so you will need to get good quality drills,
I used Cobalt drill bits in 4,6,8mm designed for cutting hard metals these have a dual angle cutting head thats works great and stays sharp if treated right. Remember that you will not be able to drill straight through using the 8mm bit, so start with the 4mm and work up to 8mm and always use a coolant or a lubricant (oil) if not then those $20 bits will be F@#Ked in no time
Use a drill press so that the holes are at right angles to the disk face
If the drill starts to squeal then the cutting tip has become dull and wont cut sawdust
Ok when finished SHALLOW de-bur the holes with a good quality counter sinking bit and all's good to go
Rod from OZ 8)
