"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

I painted and it looked sick but when I apply the clear my under paint wrinkle and the clear is coming off. What should I have done..?
 
sorry to hear that mate when i did mine i tested the clear under the tank one side went ok the other crinkled :eek: still don't know why but the best way when ya lay on ya clear itrs more like a dust coat and build up the finish letting each dust coat dry that gives time for chems in the clear to evaporate between coats then ya last coat ya put on quite wet :p seemed to work for me 8)
 

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So if I'm using 2k clear, I should use a regular cheapo clear at the end of my last color coat, then let that totally cure then move on to 2k? And what primer and paint pair best with 2k clear for a gloss finish?
 
Javier801 said:
I painted and it looked sick but when I apply the clear my under paint wrinkle and the clear is coming off. What should I have done..?

Did you use the same brand of paint for the clear as for the base coats? This could be the reason. Other possible reasons (and i know this from personal failure as well ;) ):

- different types of paint
- too cold or humid when spraying
- sprayed the base coat too heavy. don't be afraid if the clearcoat looks dull. the shine will come with buffing.
- not enough time between two coats.

It is important to spray light coats and let them dry for about 10 to 15 minutes. and do not buff the clearcoat for at least a week after spraying. It needs time to cure and gas out.

Trial and error my man, that's how I have learned a lot. And the help of this forum ofcourse :)
 
legitmw said:
So if I'm using 2k clear, I should use a regular cheapo clear at the end of my last color coat, then let that totally cure then move on to 2k? And what primer and paint pair best with 2k clear for a gloss finish?

That is correct. I used spray paint I bought in a car body shop. If you ask the staff they will help you with finding the right combinations
 
Out of curiosity, what would a technique like below be called? I'm just trying find a technique that can offer me something like a phantom two tone paint job where one color of an basercoat shows through a different topcoat color. I've searched high and low for what I'm trying to accomplish but can't seem to find the proper name/technique to search.

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Nduetime said:
Out of curiosity, what would a technique like below be called? I'm just trying find a technique that can offer me something like a phantom two tone paint job where one color of an basercoat shows through a different topcoat color. I've searched high and low for what I'm trying to accomplish but can't seem to find the proper name/technique to search.

IMG_1168A.jpg

Candy. Translucent color over metallic color (gold,silver)
1st stage metallic
2nd stage candy color (translucent)
3rd stage clear
Typ.
 
cafe mike said:
Candy. Translucent color over metallic color (gold,silver)
1st stage metallic
2nd stage candy color (translucent)
3rd stage clear
Typ.

I would assume I could use the same technique without using metallic paint in the first stage, for a non metallic look?
 
Nduetime said:
I would assume I could use the same technique without using metallic paint in the first stage, for a non metallic look?
The lighter the color of the base coat and least amount of candy will increase the depth and intensity (darker more coats)
 
Home Depot now sells plastic dip made by rust oleum.
They had in
white
black
grey
red.
$6 a can
 

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So how would I do following this tutorial using this paint on a metal tank? Is there better stuff I should be using?

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One drop of gas on there and you're shit out of luck. You can use cheaper paint, my first bike I used duplicolor, but you'll need a 2 part clear coat to have any durability.
 
+1 on the 2K clear, can get Spraymax at NAPA and Eastwood has a version. USE A RESPIRATOR and cover all exposed skin but it is worth every penny for the 25 bucks a can it averages in price. I used Duplicolor metal specks and 2K clear and have spilled gas no less then 3 times on my tank and it hasn't hurt it at all, wiped off with paper towels at gas station. Tanks still looks like new. I used the regular clear on the previous tank and one gas spill completely ruined it.
 
With all the work put in to properly prep for a paint job, it is a shame to use anything less than a 2K clear coat. A single drop of gas or solvent can ruin all your hard work. And today with 2K paint available in a spray can, even the DIYer can get great results that will still look good for years to come.
 
They've been carrying it for a while now. They'll mix colours as well, haven't tried that yet though only the clear. May try it next time though.
 
Wanting a satin finish on my tank, fenders and seat, and all of the information in here is fantastic, however I can't seem to find if there is any change in procedure for achieving a decent satin finish from a rattle can?

I'm thinking of using this stuff which apparenty doesn't require a primer and then applying a satin clear over the top. Is it worth rough sanding between layers?

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