"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

Oh boy .... so I read somewhere that sealing the edge of your clear coat with JB weld was a good idea, in case it chips around the gas cap and what not.

So that's what I did. Sloshing the tank around to prevent flash rust as it's not 100% full I turned it upside down and didnt think much of it. Well, turns out some gas got right up on top there and totally dissolved the JBWeld and the clear!!!

And I thought jbweld was gas resistant! Wtf?!?!

Anyways ... it should be ok because it doesnt seem to have spread much and I cleaned it with alcohol and it wont be visible under the cap anyways.

Any of you guys seal the "edge" of clearcoat at the tank opening?
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Maritime

Well-Known Member
They both are when fully cured? How long between application and gas confact? I think jb needs 7 days. 2k needs 48 hr.
 

Jimbonaut

Well-Known Member
DTT SUPPORTER
2K for sure is gas resistant - I've got more gas on the outside of my KLR's tank than in it.
 
2K for sure is gas resistant - I've got more gas on the outside of my KLR's tank than in it.
The
They both are when fully cured? How long between application and gas confact? I think jb needs 7 days. 2k needs 48 hr.
The 2k was 4-5 days, but the JB was not 7 days, so that might be it.

Either way, I cut the paint back to below the cap, applied a little clear nail polish at the edge, and left the part under the cap bare steel as most do anyways.

Should be good.
 
So the filler neck was solved. Left it bare like most people do.

But after 3 weeks of sitting with gas in the tank it turns out there is a tiny pinhole! It took 3 weeks to lift the paint on the bottom of the tank.

Thinking a little jbweld stick, the kind that is made for gas tanks. Any other option?

I'll patch it up and just get the tank redone next year
 

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Sderbyshire

Into Sailing, classic Triumph cars and motorbikes.
I had a similar but much more severe issue Charlie.

turns out the old filler was hiding holes, paint lifted after a day.

i ground back to bare metal and used QuikSteel to attempt to seal the holes.
holding up ok after 2 weeks.

good luck !

steve
F5EDB179-5B5F-4130-A3D9-13070BACA5A7.jpegCC1F19FC-99A5-4972-A537-1BE07F755AC1.jpeg
 
I had a similar but much more severe issue Charlie.

turns out the old filler was hiding holes, paint lifted after a day.

i ground back to bare metal and used QuikSteel to attempt to seal the holes.
holding up ok after 2 weeks.

good luck !

steve
View attachment 228232View attachment 228233
yeah mine was mild it took a very long time. there was no way i could have noticed at the time of cleaning/painting the tank.

Did you use the two part epoxy kind or the putty type? Because JBWeld specific for gas tank repair is a putty but i've never used it.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Ive used the jb crappy tire gas tank kit and it worked on an old Rav4. Got 100K miles out of the repair
 

Rider52

Active Member
Most of the current gas contains ethanol which can dissolve epoxies like JB Weld. The company still claims it is gas resistant, but I've seen it fail several times. Curing time for 15-24 hours.
 

Sderbyshire

Into Sailing, classic Triumph cars and motorbikes.
Yes the QuikSteel is a twompart epoxy stick, seems to be holding up ok so far But time will tell.

i also 2k glossed the tank with Mipa 2k clearcoat.

went on very well but seems to contain an insect attractant ..... :-O

steve
 
HA ... what a waste of time and money!
This bulls***t can only stick to your hands, gloves or any other tool you try and use to apply it with. I'm not sure if other putty alternatives are like this, but this thing is AWFUL.

Not happy with it at all! I finally managed to get it to stick to the (sanded and cleaned) metal only after using wax paper over my finger to apply it with. Even a smooth plastic putty knife wasnt woeking as it would just stick to it instead of the steel.

It says can be applied to a leaking gas tank even. Yeah, no. Dont even bother trying that.

Good god.
 

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Sderbyshire

Into Sailing, classic Triumph cars and motorbikes.
Bugger, thats not good Charlie

i can’t guarantee it’ll work but the QuikSteel did stick to my freshly prepped tank, i wore nitrile gloves.

i gave the repair a chance by beating in the surrounding area a little so i could surround the holes with about 1cm of quiksteel.

i think it would work for your hole but it would need grinding back a little.

steve
 
Bugger, thats not good Charlie

i can’t guarantee it’ll work but the QuikSteel did stick to my freshly prepped tank, i wore nitrile gloves.

i gave the repair a chance by beating in the surrounding area a little so i could surround the holes with about 1cm of quiksteel.

i think it would work for your hole but it would need grinding back a little.

steve
I did too. It stuck to everything. Not having a second option, it being past midnight, and really wanting it done I had Eureka moment and finally got it to work ... I think.

I have yet to check on it, but I finally managed to make this pile of cr** stay on the tank by covering my plastic putty knife with wax paper from the kitchen. Only then would it stick to the metal and not the knife or my hands or anything else.
 

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pidjones

Well-Known Member
Just hope it really bonds to the steel. The only other alternative I can think of is braze or silver solder. Then you are back to square one on the paint.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Charlie the kit i had used had a mesh to reinforce the putty and make it much easier to use. May look into that one if this one is crap
 

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