rear sets from dcc

G

greasemonkey75

Active Member
I just purchased the rear sets through dcc. I hope o made the right choice? I. like the design and their helpful attitudes. I also liked that the pegs looked chunky. I think it will look right for my bike. The only thing I didn't like was that it isn't adjustable like the tarozzi's or the ones on this site from vietnam. It will also get to me much faster. What are the feelings of universal rearsets here?
 
Just rock'em and be stoked man,
They will look great!
And you will have a rad bike.
 
Hell ya man, they will be sweet.
Most bikes run fitted rearsets.
I do, and a love them.
Your gonna love yours too. And dime city is a great place to buy, one of the best.
 
I just got the dcc rear sets today. WOW. They are better made than I could have imagined. They look heavy duty and I no light weight. Those knurled edges. Sweet! All concerns have been laid to rest.
 
Are you guys talking about the Loaded Gun universal rearsets or does DCC make their own? If they do, can someone shoot a link? I can't seem to find them.

Thanks,
 
I'm 99% sure they're talking about the Loaded Gun rearsets. Kevin and co. make good stuff over at LGC :) I have a set here that I plan on putting on my XS to replace the brittle cast Tarozzi levers (I've cracked one already).
 
What was the users name who was making sets and linkage kits out of his shop last year? You know if he is still selling sets?
 
Yes I was referring to the rear set sold by ddc but made by loaded gun. Just hooked them up. Only thing I had to brainstorm about was how to hook up rear brake on a 77 kz650b1 with drums. I tried hooking it up over swing arm by flipping lever upside down. Problem was there was too much movement when applying brake. Almost 90 degrees. I then flipped brake drum lever back to original position. I took rearset apart and flipped theit around so it looked exactly like the other side and tried hooking it up directly. Well, that didn't work. So, I ended up, drilling a hole about an inch in from toe shift. I hooked the tie rod to that point and it works. Much shorter range maybe 30 degrees. I will have to apply more pressure, but I'm a big guy. Now I will just have to cut off the original attach point on rear set to clean up.
 
A pic speaks volumes
IMAG0381.jpg
 
Ok, so im fresh to this site. Im doing a build on a 71 cl350. I wanted order the same rear sets from dcc but there isnt a "kit" per say. So what all do i need for them to be functional on my bike.

Thanks guys
 
Greasemonkey, you are actuating your brake with a bent rod in compression? This seems ill-advised. How much does that thing flex? Please don't take this as excessive criticism as it may work fine. Just doesn't seem like it should.

I will admit my current rear brake setup is no better with the original brake rod bent severely, but at least it is in tension and I plan on working out a better permanent solution.
 
I may get a new linkage, but this linkage it stiff as Shit. It is a threaded rod with a aluminum sleeve. The reason it is a little bent is because before I had this set up I was trying to route over swingarm and it needed to snake a little bit. Unfortunately the travel was way too excessive. I bent rod as straight as I could and went for this set up. As I said, may get new linkage for looks, but as for flex, there is none. Point taken though. Good looking out. We all want to keep our buds safe!
 
Guys, This subject has come up a few times now and the "solutions" aren't always appropriate.

Brakes should always be in tension and never in compression. With a long rod in compression, when you apply it hard it will bend and buckle. That's just how things work. The only way you can safely get away with a rod in compression is if it is very short and very stiff.

For example if you had the original lever, suitably shortened and linked the new lever to the stock one with a short straight stiff rod, that would be fine.

The relationship between the lengths of the various levers is also important and cannot just be changed without consequences.

A brake lever also needs to have a positive stop arrangement that sets the angle and it also takes up excessive free play.

On that bike in particular and on most bikes in general, you have two good choices. Convert to a cable pull arrangement or link to a shortened version of the original lever. Bent rods, long push rods and poor linkage geometry are not suitable alternatives. We are not talking the finer points of good engineering design here. We are talking about what works safely and what does not.

There are examples of good, well though out rear sets on this site.
 
Try standing on brake pedal and see how much it bends.
If it can't take it, it aint safe
(you think you won't in a panic situation?-you will)
 
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