Simplified Wiring Digrams

Sonreir

Oregon
This simplified wiring diagram will work for most Honda singles and twins with an alternator with a single yellow, single pink, and single white wire and a regulator that has a green, yellow, and black wire.

That includes all flavors of the CB160, CB175, CB200, CB350, CB360, and most of the 450s. Works for the small singles like the 125, too. Possibly some of the off-road variants like the XLs and XRs?

This diagram uses a Kohler Regulator/Rectifier to replace the stock regulator and rectifier. Horn and starter motor are not included. Also, wiring is for the LED turn signal conversion.

Special thanks to www.oldmanhonda.com as I borrowed some of their graphics to make this diagram.
 

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Bert Jan

Holy Modification Batman
nice you did it the proper way. so many new kids asking the same question over and over. now we can refer to this and be done with it. ill post up some diagrams i made tonight when i get home.
 

nrcb125

New Member
I think this is WAY oversimplified. It doesn't even show the ground wires coming off anything except the battery. The wire colors are also not true to what's on the bikes (at least for my CB125). This is confusing and misinformative.

The problem is not the wiring diagram, the problem is people don't know how to read and/or interpret them. Below is my 'simplified' version of the wiring diagram for my CB125S.
 

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Sonreir

Oregon
nrcb125 said:
I think this is WAY oversimplified. It doesn't even show the ground wires coming off anything except the battery. The wire colors are also not true to what's on the bikes (at least for my CB125). This is confusing and misinformative.

The problem is not the wiring diagram, the problem is people don't know how to read and/or interpret them. Below is my 'simplified' version of the wiring diagram for my CB125S.
The wiring diagram in the original post is what I use when making wiring harnesses. Some of the colors are non-stock because dual-color wire is not easily available for a decent price. In those cases, the connectors are shown where it joins. Also, this is a "1-wire" diagram because it is known than all electrical components will need a ground. Displaying it further complicates the issue.

So yeah, maybe I should have prefaced it with something along the lines of, "If you're brand new to wiring, you'll want to keep a few things in mind...".

But regardless, the purpose of this diagram is not to display what is already going on with the stock harness, but to provide a useful tool when tackling your own wiring changes (or even a completely new harness). The stock colors fall second to providing a functional harness.

Also... in your diagram, the yellow/white wire is superfluous. Splice the white in with the yellow and remove the other wiring run.
 

nrcb125

New Member
Sonreir said:
The wiring diagram in the original post is what I use when making wiring harnesses. Some of the colors are non-stock because dual-color wire is not easily available for a decent price. In those cases, the connectors are shown where it joins. Also, this is a "1-wire" diagram because it is known than all electrical components will need a ground. Displaying it further complicates the issue.

So yeah, maybe I should have prefaced it with something along the lines of, "If you're brand new to wiring, you'll want to keep a few things in mind...".

But regardless, the purpose of this diagram is not to display what is already going on with the stock harness, but to provide a useful tool when tackling your own wiring changes (or even a completely new harness). The stock colors fall second to providing a functional harness.
Ah okay. That makes more sense.

Sonreir said:
Also... in your diagram, the yellow/white wire is superfluous. Splice the white in with the yellow and remove the other wiring run.
I figured this out by inspecting the old switch and wondering what the hell Honda was smoking in the 70s. In Honda's original diagram by some sort of wizardry (the right hand switch) the wire changes colors. It's a bit handy to know in case you're looking at the original harness and switches.
 

nrcb125

New Member
firebane said:
What are you guys using to draw these wiring diagrams?
I've been using GIMP (http://www.gimp.org/). It's a free, open source Photoshop clone. I made a layer for the background and the old wiring diagram. Then for each color of wire and the components I traced over the old wiring diagram using a new layer. It's tedious but well worth it.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
Paint.NET for me. Unfortunately, I don't know of any diagramming programs that are quick and easy... Maybe I should write one?
 

johngofast

New Member
Sonreir said:
Paint.NET for me. Unfortunately, I don't know of any diagramming programs that are quick and easy... Maybe I should write one?
You should and share it for a small fee. ;)
 

Sonreir

Oregon
Barebones diagram for the Honda twins and singles. Only enough to get the bike running and keep it that way. No lights, signals, or gauges included. Though not pictured, I recommend a 5A fuse on the black wire leading to the coils.
 

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ako

New Member
Sonrier, sorry if I am being slow, but when I read the first pic it looks like the neutral light is connected to the R/R. What am I missing?
 

Sonreir

Oregon
I'll clean up that pic... it's mean to be running behind it and connecting to the same connector that runs from the alternator.
 

ako

New Member
Ok. Cool. Thought I was losing it.

Maybe you can try using autocad. The components can all be embedded jpegs, and then you can connect the 'wires' using lines. Each line could be on layers, so you could hide the turn signal layer, or hide the charging layer.

That way you could have a bunch of outputs sketches/images with no extra work. Easy to stretch and move things as well.
 

Bert Jan

Holy Modification Batman
Sonreir said:
I recommend a 5A fuse on the black wire leading to the coils.
Why not on the red wire? I know its the same, but to keep it simple fuses normally are on 'always hot'.
 

Sonreir

Oregon
Normally I would agree, but I chose the black wire because there is only one. Putting the fuse on the wrong section of red wire won't do you any good. :p
 

AlaskaCL350

New Member
People keep referring to a Kohler R/R unit in many different posts. Pretty sure my voltage regulator just toasted, causing all my bulbs to burn and toasting my turn signal flasher. Pretty awesome...

Just making sure I'm looking at the correct Kohler Regulator / Rectifier combo unit. Please advise as the ones listed as just "Regulators" look exactly the same as the ones listed as "Regulator-Rectifier Kits.

I think it's this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-KOHLER-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-25-755-03-S-/161078395508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581054274

But this one looks exactly the same:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regulator-for-Kohler-25-755-03S-41-403-05-S-4140310S-4140309-41-403-09-/230896172531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c27bfdf3


Thanks guys.

-T
 

trek97

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
AlaskaCL350 said:
People keep referring to a Kohler R/R unit in many different posts. Pretty sure my voltage regulator just toasted, causing all my bulbs to burn and toasting my turn signal flasher. Pretty awesome...

Just making sure I'm looking at the correct Kohler Regulator / Rectifier combo unit. Please advise as the ones listed as just "Regulators" look exactly the same as the ones listed as "Regulator-Rectifier Kits.

I think it's this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-KOHLER-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-25-755-03-S-/161078395508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581054274

But this one looks exactly the same:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regulator-for-Kohler-25-755-03S-41-403-05-S-4140310S-4140309-41-403-09-/230896172531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c27bfdf3


Thanks guys.

-T
Sorry I cant actually help you. But I got this one. Its labeled as an R/R. I went w it cause it claims a 20 amp rating. I havent yet installed it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JDG93A/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Sonreir

Oregon
AlaskaCL350 said:
People keep referring to a Kohler R/R unit in many different posts. Pretty sure my voltage regulator just toasted, causing all my bulbs to burn and toasting my turn signal flasher. Pretty awesome...

Just making sure I'm looking at the correct Kohler Regulator / Rectifier combo unit. Please advise as the ones listed as just "Regulators" look exactly the same as the ones listed as "Regulator-Rectifier Kits.

I think it's this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-KOHLER-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-25-755-03-S-/161078395508?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2581054274

But this one looks exactly the same:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regulator-for-Kohler-25-755-03S-41-403-05-S-4140310S-4140309-41-403-09-/230896172531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c27bfdf3


Thanks guys.

-T
Either of those are fine.
 

Tim

Administrator
Staff member
This is my simplified diagram for my XS650. I wired it up from scratch. It's kick-only, uses the MikesXS regulator/rectifier and a single fuse. Diagram shows a 20A, but I'm running with a single 10A fuse. My BMW R75 stock runs off a single 8A fuse, so there you go. No need for a bunch of fuses, but they do allow you to isolate ignition from lights, so if you short out your lighting, you can still run the bike to get home. I'll be doing that on my next bike.

Hasn't given me a hint of trouble in 4+ years. I drew it up in Visio.

I've since replaced the ignition switch, which was an EMGO Honda CB replacement, with a single toggle switch. The Boyer ignition is also gone, replaced by a Pamco for the 277 rephase.
 

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