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Here in the states, the kz twins were not a big hit for some reason. They're a solid motor except for some of the starter clutches. I'm currently in progress of replacing that bit on mine. I will go with a mild tracker setup as well. Best thing about twins, "half the carbs" !
Here in the states, the kz twins were not a big hit for some reason. They're a solid motor except for some of the starter clutches. I'm currently in progress of replacing that bit on mine. I will go with a mild tracker setup as well. Best thing about twins, "half the carbs" !
OR only ONE carb if you go for Weber 40DCOE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here in the states, the kz twins were not a big hit for some reason. They're a solid motor except for some of the starter clutches. I'm currently in progress of replacing that bit on mine. I will go with a mild tracker setup as well. Best thing about twins, "half the carbs" !
Canyon, let me know if you have any questions on replacing that starter clutch. I've done about 4 of these starter clutches and there not that bad to do. You don't have to do half the stuff that the book tells you to do. I've also found replacements on ebay for cheap as new ones are expensive. I think the kz400 has the same starter clutch.
Hey no !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let's have the info out here !!
Don't know if this is a common fault - but my swingarm was obviously in a bad way corrosion-wise. When we removed the rusty metal "horseshoe" at the spindle end - I was amazed to find the actual spindle tube virtually completely rotted away !!
I've got the replacement sorted. Water obviously gets inside that metal box section and sits there gradually rotting out the tube - and you can't see it !
So what crackerman pointed out that I should have known but somehow missed in the manual is that the bolt holding the rotor is reverse thread. Geez, no wonder it wouldn't come off. I had already ordered and received a new oem kawasaki starter clutch and starter motor gear. (about 130$ total) Also, the rear axle bolt is supposed to be a good tool for backing the clutch off the shaft.
So what crackerman pointed out that I should have known but somehow missed in the manual is that the bolt holding the rotor is reverse thread. Geez, no wonder it wouldn't come off. I had already ordered and received a new oem kawasaki starter clutch and starter motor gear. (about 130$ total) Also, the rear axle bolt is supposed to be a good tool for backing the clutch off the shaft.
Also says you gotta drain the oil when you do the starter clutch. You don't. If you lean the right side of the bike up on a wall, the opposite side of the kickstand, the oil won't leak out.
The PDF full manual is 200mb which is huge so I didn't think it would be appropriate to post it here. I've hosted it on my google drive account. You can download it at this link:
The PDF full manual is 200mb which is huge so I didn't think it would be appropriate to post it here. I've hosted it on my google drive account. You can download it at this link:
CC - you're a star ...................... gratitude.
+Moved a little closer with the high level pipes for the Tracker. We've been knitting up a set of Siamese st.st. pipes for another project and ended up with quite a few odd bends. Just so happens that one of the bends is spot on for the right hand side, so it looks doable now.
Just need to get that Weber manifold done, and that's all the major headache outwork completed.
Just wrestling with what I ought to do - and the lazy way !
Just cannot get the axle bolts [ screws? ] out of the front wheel to get the bearings out prior to blasting and powdercoating. The lazy bastard in me is saying "just seal them off", the doing it the proper way person is saying "bearings out".
I'll post a pic of the wheel tomorrow as several KZ folk have said I have a "rogue" front wheel. :
I managed to get some steel strip from my pal Adrian at the weekend to use for the rear seat / electrics tray support. Once that's welded in, the frame, s/a etc. are off for blasting.
I would put one side of the axle back on the fork, tighten it down real tight so the axle doesn't spin. Work loosening the other side with the tachometer. Hit it with the heat if you have to.
beachcomber said:
Here's the wheel in question - no obvious conversion spacers, brackets etc.
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