Texas Two Step Taco

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
No OD numbers are given, just says that they are shown actual size. I'm sure one of the manufacturers (Vesrah?) has a better listing that gives all the dimensions, I just have to find it.
I meant what are the OD's of the plates pictured in your post, not the supplier pdf file. I think you said they were from a 250 not a 360 but don't know if they are smaller or similar size.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
No OD numbers are given, just says that they are shown actual size. I'm sure one of the manufacturers (Vesrah?) has a better listing that gives all the dimensions, I just have to find it.
I printed the 8 tabs off and nothing matches


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John Murray

Member
Sorry Teaz I misunderstood. There are two basic groups of Bultaco engine (not counting the very early ones), the center port engines with gear primary drive like Tex has, and the more common angle port one with chain primary drive like I have. All the different size engines in each family used the same clutch, the chain drive engines have 117mm OD plates.
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
I was talking with BB last night and sharing what John discovered on the dyno about the heavier the viscosity JASO MA2 having more holding power. He told me that once upon a time that they came out with zero weight oil and they got all excited and put it in their drag bikes and slipped their clutches. BB gave me some clutch plates for a visual. The Bultaco Bandido Barnett clutch plate, the Kawasaki H2 plate, and the Suzuki water buffalo plate. The evolution of the clutch plates.
Adjustments.jpg



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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
If anybody can do something wrong...I can. However I do learn from my mistakes.


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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Working on motorcycles will teach you more than anything where your character flaws are...


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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
What is the correct procedure on a bultaco for the clutch adjustment. According to the manual you are suppose to have a 1/2 turn backed off from touching the clutch push arm then lock down the adjuster and then I installed the clutch cable but after adjusting the cable to get the plates to kick through if you go back and check the clutch arm it is engaging the clutch arm.


Tim from Hughes Bultaco told me this is the most common issue with the clutch letting go that the adjuster is not backed off a 1/2 turn.

So I made the adjustment at the basket this time with the cable installed from last time and when you pull the clutch it feels like mush and won’t disengage the STEEL plates at all. I am using the NOS steel set. I made sure all the plates were liberally coated with oil.


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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Zeke found me a better Bultaco manual online and I printed it off. This manual has the procedure correct. Make the adjustment after the clutch cable is installed. Suppose to have 3/16” at the clutch
IMG_8643.jpg



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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
This manual says to loosen each clutch spring nut 3 turns for the bultaco bandido
IMG_8645.jpg



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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
We are ready for the dyno. Going to BB’s tomorrow to the first church of the 2 smoke.

IMG_8644.jpg



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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Well the metal clutch plates are fantastic. So good they will not let go.


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John Murray

Member
I know the fuel supply issue has been taken care of already but I found these pics while looking for clutch pics and thought they might be of interest. I originally used a VM40 carb on the Metralla engine and simply couldn't keep the fuel up to it; the feeble float and needle setup wouldn't tolerate any pump pressure. So I grafted on a Holley bowl and the problem went away.
holmik1.jpg
holmik2.jpg
 

Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
I know the fuel supply issue has been taken care of already but I found these pics while looking for clutch pics and thought they might be of interest. I originally used a VM40 carb on the Metralla engine and simply couldn't keep the fuel up to it; the feeble float and needle setup wouldn't tolerate any pump pressure. So I grafted on a Holley bowl and the problem went away.
View attachment 227052View attachment 227053
John the extent of your problem solving is inspirational.


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Texasstar

Can't is a four letter dirty word
Are you saying they won't release?
Yes at the moment it will not release but I have the rear end suspended in the air. I am using the NOS steel plates. I had to back the nuts all the way to the end to get it to slip with a kick starter but decided to set with 3 turns backed off for the dyno tomorrow. That way we won’t have the clutch slipping at all and we can see how much power we are making. Used the air shifter today and will do the same tomorrow. Maybe knock the teats off the clutch a bit to break it in on the dyno. This way we eliminate the clutch slipping on the dyno.

I read most of the Bultaco steel clutch issues on the trials forum. Some guys swear by the steel plates and then some like the Barnett plates it seems they like to grab.


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John Murray

Member
It should release unless the springs are fully coil-bound. Does it feel right? If you take out the inspection/adjustment plug can you see the pressure plate move as you operate the lever? It won't move much; about 1mm at most. If it isn't moving check for stripped or loose ignition side cover screws. A very slightly warped or bent plate is enough to make the clutch not release - they have to be dead flat.
 

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