Can't is a four letter dirty word
Yes, but not because it leaked. On the air-cooled engine I found that if I used a slip joint the outer sleeve was so close to the flange bolts it was difficult to work with. So I just welded the flange directly to the pipe and bolted it on with a little silicone. To prevent the pipe and cylinder being stressed I allowed for some movement at the rear mount - the mounting lug on the pipe sits vertically and has an oversize hole. It's attached to the frame via a bolt, a fender washer on each side of the lug and a small spacer that fits in the hole of the lug. When the bolt is pulled up tight there's just enough clearance between the fender washers and the pipe lug to allow a couple of mm fore and aft movement. There's no leaks, no cracks and no wobbles; it worked so well I use this setup on all my pipes now.
But a little silicone will seal your leaks and you'll find as you continue to increase the power the engine will run cleaner. Your video shows next to no smoke; a big difference from the earlier vids.
That makes a lot of sense. BB did something similar but he has no bolts involved. His stinger slides into a collar that allow the pipe to float and then the 4 springs retain the chamber. He has to take off 3 chambers at a time.
He uses the rubber collars going into the exhaust flange but I was wondering if that would dampen the pulse and change the resonance of the chamber?
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