The Free Kawasaki Z650 Project
- Thread starter Bevelheadmhr
- Start date
Protecting the frame before attempting to put the engine in.. or rather put the frame over the engine..
With help from a friend, we got the engine back in the frame with no problems..
Most of the nuts and bolts on the bike are being change for stainless. All the hex head bolts are being polished. First by hand filing the heads smooth, then with the bolt in my drill, press the head against various grades of wet n day and spin it up.. works well, and each bolt doesn't take too long. Using a lathe would be easier but I don't have one at home.
Most of the nuts and bolts on the bike are being change for stainless. All the hex head bolts are being polished. First by hand filing the heads smooth, then with the bolt in my drill, press the head against various grades of wet n day and spin it up.. works well, and each bolt doesn't take too long. Using a lathe would be easier but I don't have one at home.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
those are the little extra bits that make a good build a great build for sure.With help from a friend, we got the engine back in the frame with no problems..
Most of the nuts and bolts on the bike are being change for stainless. All the hex head bolts are being polished. First by hand filing the heads smooth, then with the bolt in my drill, press the head against various grades of wet n day and spin it up.. works well, and each bolt doesn't take too long. Using a lathe would be easier but I don't have one at home.
Its easier to skim the bolt heads on a lathe, but this way works well too.
The new ABS replacement side panel, has stronger lugs to hopefully prevent the failures in the original ..
Decided the rims were too rusty to reuse, so they will have to be replaced along with the spokes.. Can't do the same with the front wheel yet, as I need it whole to work out how to mount a 4 pot Brembo.
Decided the rims were too rusty to reuse, so they will have to be replaced along with the spokes.. Can't do the same with the front wheel yet, as I need it whole to work out how to mount a 4 pot Brembo.
Yokes back on the bike, new bearings and all fasteners are stainless, fitted new chrome covers to the clocks, both upper and lower, the bike had black upper bezels originally.
Yes they are, similar to those used on the early Z1. Z900 and Z1000 models. My bike had just the lower chrome covers originally, but I went for new lower and upper covers.
The rear mudguard was damaged and rusty, as well as being heavy, it wasn't going back on the bike. Therefor I made a card template which I then made in 3 mm stainless plate.
Next it needed a new rear lamp, so I bought a used one from a Kawasaki ZR7, which is also used on other bikes, such as the ZX6R and ZX9R. Once again made a card template and then the real thing, this time in 1.2mm stainless, as thats all I had to hand... I will paint this bracket satin black..
Next it needed a new rear lamp, so I bought a used one from a Kawasaki ZR7, which is also used on other bikes, such as the ZX6R and ZX9R. Once again made a card template and then the real thing, this time in 1.2mm stainless, as thats all I had to hand... I will paint this bracket satin black..
The rear wheel adjusters had seen better days, and since it would take too long to have them chromed or whatever, I had a new pair made in stainless steel. Just been to polish them before they go back on the bike.
The front disc has now been spaced out to allow a 4 pot Brembo to fit, using a spacer with a spigot. To ensure I could still use the speedo drive, the hex bolts which bolt the disc to the hub have to changed for countersunk bolts. I've ordered Ti bolts, they were cheaper than the stainless equivalent.
The new alloy rims from Italy should have arrived by now, but there's some problem, so have to wait..
The front disc has now been spaced out to allow a 4 pot Brembo to fit, using a spacer with a spigot. To ensure I could still use the speedo drive, the hex bolts which bolt the disc to the hub have to changed for countersunk bolts. I've ordered Ti bolts, they were cheaper than the stainless equivalent.
The new alloy rims from Italy should have arrived by now, but there's some problem, so have to wait..
During a fairly warm day last week, sprayed the Candy red on the tail piece and side panels. The tank needs lots of work, so haven't painted it yet, as its been raining ever since.
The new alloy rims finally arrived from Italy, so laced up the front wheel no problem, but I've been sent the wrong spoke set for the rear, so have to wait until the correct spokes turn up.
Wrong spokes
Filler cap seal has seen better days..
Rebuild the front Brembo with new stainless bolts.
The new alloy rims finally arrived from Italy, so laced up the front wheel no problem, but I've been sent the wrong spoke set for the rear, so have to wait until the correct spokes turn up.
Wrong spokes
Filler cap seal has seen better days..
Rebuild the front Brembo with new stainless bolts.
The new alloy rims have have finally arrived from Italy, and have now been laced and trued, next have to grind down any spokes which protrude from the top of the nipples inside the rim.. else could cause a puncture. .
Meanwhile, sprayed the rest of the bodywork candy red with 1K acrylic rattle can paint, next I am going to use Spraymax 2K in a can clear top coat. I've read that the 1K paint continues to 'Gas off' for weeks, which is a problem, as the 2K paint is impervious to this gas. Therefore, it is recommended to leave the 1K paint for several weeks before spraying on the 2K top coat. There seems to be no agreement on how long to wait, so I'll wait 4 weeks and hopefully that should be enough.
Meanwhile, sprayed the rest of the bodywork candy red with 1K acrylic rattle can paint, next I am going to use Spraymax 2K in a can clear top coat. I've read that the 1K paint continues to 'Gas off' for weeks, which is a problem, as the 2K paint is impervious to this gas. Therefore, it is recommended to leave the 1K paint for several weeks before spraying on the 2K top coat. There seems to be no agreement on how long to wait, so I'll wait 4 weeks and hopefully that should be enough.
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
I love that red! I wait minimum 2 weeks with the bits in my upstairs den (warmest room in the house) before clear with SprayMax 2k. I also leave a slight margin of clean steel between color and cap or tap penetration, then cover that gap with 2k. The 2k seems quite resistant to petrol, while I've read of many occasions with petrol making its way under the 2k by dissolving the 1k.
A good thing with the SprayMax is that, if sprayed in a bit too-high humidity, it will fog upm but clear as it cures (within reason). Also, is very keen to wet sanding smooth and buffing to a fine gloss (which I should do on my Triumph tank, but think I will leave the orange peel). Runs sand out easily! The most forgiving paint that I've ever used.
A good thing with the SprayMax is that, if sprayed in a bit too-high humidity, it will fog upm but clear as it cures (within reason). Also, is very keen to wet sanding smooth and buffing to a fine gloss (which I should do on my Triumph tank, but think I will leave the orange peel). Runs sand out easily! The most forgiving paint that I've ever used.
Yes, I have used Spraymax 2K before, I was impressed. I will rub down the paint around the filler cap to fade it into the hole, before I spray on the 2K top coat. Got another week or two to wait yet, the weather here is still around 10c so the longer I wait the warmer it will become.
A sunny day meant it was time to spray the bodywork with Spraymax 2K clear top coat, it went well, apart from a fly getting stuck on the tank.. its the price to pay for having to paint outside...
Put two coats on the side panels and tail section and three coats o the tank, before the can ran out..
However, while it looked good, close up the 'orange peel' finish was clear to see. Therefore, the paint had to be 'cut back', starting with 2500 grade wet and dry sand paper, followed by rubbing compound, then cutting polish to bring back the shine to the top coat. A lot of work, doing it all by hand..
New badges stuck on with 3M VHB tape..
Along with a new filler cap. Tank still needs more polishing in this pic..
Put two coats on the side panels and tail section and three coats o the tank, before the can ran out..
However, while it looked good, close up the 'orange peel' finish was clear to see. Therefore, the paint had to be 'cut back', starting with 2500 grade wet and dry sand paper, followed by rubbing compound, then cutting polish to bring back the shine to the top coat. A lot of work, doing it all by hand..
New badges stuck on with 3M VHB tape..
Along with a new filler cap. Tank still needs more polishing in this pic..
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The wheels have now been rebuilt and are at my local tyre place waiting for a pair of Avons to arrive. Not sure how I'm going to fit them back on the bike, as its sitting so low on its trolly, and there's no room for a lift. But I'm sure I'll work it out.
The next job is to repair and slightly modify the wiring harness, as I need to fit different switchgear. Even those I have spare from the F2 are different from the B..
Fitted new indicator stems, as the originals were rusty, while the rear indicator bodies were worse than I thought, so will order new ones.
With low bars fitted, also fitted the clutch and brake controls, the latter is from a Ducati 600SS to match the front 4 pot Brembo. Pity its lever is black, will have to remove the black coating so it matches the original clutch lever.
I've ordered a pair of cheapish YSS rear shocks, but at 340mm should give a tiny bit more ground clearance, than the standard length shocks.
Finally, I've decided the Kirker exhaust is too rusty to go back on the bike, I had originally wanted to have it ceramically coated. But the down pipes are welded to the collector box, so accessing all the rust in that area would be difficult is not impossible. I did consider cutting the pipes off at the collector box, then welding stubs to the collector so the pipes would be a slide fit onto them... but it all was looking expensive and tricky to do in such a small area, so binned the idea.
Therefore, I need a new exhaust. I like the look of a Marving 4-1, but was put off by tales of very poor chrome. The obvious answer is a stainless Delkevic system, of the two options, I suspect the one with the larger silencer will work better, while the one that looks like an old Alfa 4-1 will be lighter and perhaps a little better looking.
Anyone have experience of either?
The next job is to repair and slightly modify the wiring harness, as I need to fit different switchgear. Even those I have spare from the F2 are different from the B..
Fitted new indicator stems, as the originals were rusty, while the rear indicator bodies were worse than I thought, so will order new ones.
With low bars fitted, also fitted the clutch and brake controls, the latter is from a Ducati 600SS to match the front 4 pot Brembo. Pity its lever is black, will have to remove the black coating so it matches the original clutch lever.
I've ordered a pair of cheapish YSS rear shocks, but at 340mm should give a tiny bit more ground clearance, than the standard length shocks.
Finally, I've decided the Kirker exhaust is too rusty to go back on the bike, I had originally wanted to have it ceramically coated. But the down pipes are welded to the collector box, so accessing all the rust in that area would be difficult is not impossible. I did consider cutting the pipes off at the collector box, then welding stubs to the collector so the pipes would be a slide fit onto them... but it all was looking expensive and tricky to do in such a small area, so binned the idea.
Therefore, I need a new exhaust. I like the look of a Marving 4-1, but was put off by tales of very poor chrome. The obvious answer is a stainless Delkevic system, of the two options, I suspect the one with the larger silencer will work better, while the one that looks like an old Alfa 4-1 will be lighter and perhaps a little better looking.
Anyone have experience of either?
